Zoa Not Opening- New to Hobby

[mbrock4141]

Hello, I am brand new and eager to get corals going in my 20g aio cube.

My tank is 6 weeks old and cycled and I added a few corals (zoa, gsp, and Duncan) the Duncan and gsp are doing good, but the ZOA WON’T OPEN!

I’ve had them for 8 days now and nothing! My tank parameters and info are:

Nitrite-0
Nitrate-20
Ammonia-0
PH- 8.0
Temp- 77-78
Light- 60watt Hygger bulb (usually set to 60% blue/white)

Please help me figure out my issues. Thanks :)

 

[Rocks reef]

I would move them out into the light more.

 

[JTP424]

Light is a little bit high from the tank too I think.... Might benefit to move it closer.

 

[Dom]

Hello, I am brand new and eager to get corals going in my 20g aio cube.

My tank is 6 weeks old and cycled and I added a few corals (zoa, gsp, and Duncan) the Duncan and gsp are doing good, but the ZOA WON’T OPEN!

I’ve had them for 8 days now and nothing! My tank parameters and info are:

Nitrite-0
Nitrate-20
Ammonia-0
PH- 8.0
Temp- 77-78
Light- 60watt Hygger bulb (usually set to 60% blue/white)

Please help me figure out my issues. Thanks :)

Generally speaking, Zoas are easy to keep. They don't require a tremendous amount of light and flow. Based on your pictures, you have ample flow for a tank that size.

But there are other chemistry parameters that are important in the hobby; Alkalinity and Calcium.

I think the location of the Zoa is a contributing factor. If it were my tank, I would move it closer to the light and in a more direct path of flow.... don't blast it, just provide it with a bit more flow.

 

[Dom]

Light is a little bit high from the tank too I think.... Might benefit to move it closer.

Good catch. I hadn't noticed that.

 

[vincorals]

Like others said. I would move it to a different spot

 

[Privateye]

When I had zoanthid eating nudibranchs my affected zoas wouldn't open. I removed the frag and took a close look, and there were the nudibranchs. They're about the size of a pencil point, and their gills will be the same color as the zoas.

The eggs can be easier to spot:

A variety of factors could stress them to the point of not opening, but I'd check for nudibranch eggs. At least to rule them out. They're easiest to spot when the polyps are closed. If you find them, I have a dip I can recommend.

 

[chaseworth611]

When I had zoanthid eating nudibranchs my affected zoas wouldn't open. I removed the frag and took a close look, and there were the nudibranchs. They're about the size of a pencil point, and their gills will be the same color as the zoas.

The eggs can be easier to spot:

A variety of factors could stress them to the point of not opening, but I'd check for nudibranch eggs. At least to rule them out. They're easiest to spot when the polyps are closed. If you find them, I have a dip I can recommend.

I'm honestly having kind of the same issue it seems... My zoas were fine for about 2 weeks and then I put a midas blenny in and it has taken refuge under the colony... Now all the small polyps in the middle are closed and have been for over a week now but the polyps on the outside edges seem to be fine.. I haven't seen any eggs or anything that resembles melting, but I'm also very new to the hobby and learning and reading up on everything as I go.

Should mention my parameters are fine, I have a GSP and some hardy LPS that I can not remember the name of.... But they're doing fine and already growing.

 

[vetteguy53081]

It can be to too much light or water flow, sudden change of parameters and even use of vodka or carbon dosing that reduces nitrate quickly. Assure salinity and Phos has not become elevated.
Most zoa favor low light. Often a simple dip in Lugols iodine can perk them up. There are a number of factors why zoas close up especially water movement/flow as zoas do not require the consistent high flow conditions that SPS corals do. I would consider running moderate flow which is ideal but Zoa can adapt to low or high flow. In high flow, you will typically see polyps grow closer to the rock with shorter stalks.
Another is lack of feeding and food as infrequent feeding and low nutrients can lead to an entire colony melting down. You dont need to target feed as zoas are photosynthetic. It is generally found that target feeding zoas always provides mixed results when a food falls onto their polyps.

 

[chaseworth611]

It can be to too much light or water flow, sudden change of parameters and even use of vodka or carbon dosing that reduces nitrate quickly. Assure salinity and Phos has not become elevated.
Most zoa favor low light. Often a simple dip in Lugols iodine can perk them up. There are a number of factors why zoas close up especially water movement/flow as zoas do not require the consistent high flow conditions that SPS corals do. I would consider running moderate flow which is ideal but Zoa can adapt to low or high flow. In high flow, you will typically see polyps grow closer to the rock with shorter stalks.
Another is lack of feeding and food as infrequent feeding and low nutrients can lead to an entire colony melting down. You dont need to target feed as zoas are photosynthetic. It is generally found that target feeding zoas always provides mixed results when a food falls onto their polyps.

How do these look to you? Do you see any melting or eggs? I couldn't..

It's lower in the tank as you can see, and the flow hits the GSP pretty well, and it's just outside of view so I figured it would hit the zoas well too.. I use the Nero 3 and have put it on the far right wall about 2-3 inches from the water surface towards the back.. Any other placement ideas?

I did end up putting carbon in the tank a week ago to clear it up after a water change. But they were closed up before then as well..

 

[vetteguy53081]

How do these look to you? Do you see any melting or eggs? I couldn't..

It's lower in the tank as you can see, and the flow hits the GSP pretty well, and it's just outside of view so I figured it would hit the zoas well too.. I use the Nero 3 and have put it on the far right wall about 2-3 inches from the water surface towards the back.. Any other placement ideas?

Check phosphate level and give them gentle bursts with a turkey baster and see if any sediment comes off of them. I dont see melting but rather closed up due to stress

 

[chaseworth611]

How do these look to you? Do you see any melting or eggs? I couldn't..

It's lower in the tank as you can see, and the flow hits the GSP pretty well, and it's just outside of view so I figured it would hit the zoas well too.. I use the Nero 3 and have put it on the far right wall about 2-3 inches from the water surface towards the back.. Any other placement ideas?

Check phosphate level and give them gentle bursts with a turkey baster and see if any sediment comes off of them. I dont see melting but rather closed up due to stress

Will do that tomorrow, if it is low, any recommendations?

 

[Skippy The Meh]

Zoas can be picky when it comes to phosphate levels. Try to keep around .06-.12. If it needs to go up, use neophos, down, you can bacteria and carbon dose or gfo. There are other options those are just my favorites.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Will do that tomorrow, if it is low, any recommendations?

Likely elevated rather than low

 

[chaseworth611]

Likely elevated rather than low

Any recommendations for that one? How do I lower it?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Any recommendations for that one? How do I lower it?

Limit amount of food fed
Do 2-3 gallon water changes daily for 2 weeks
Add chemiPure blue or elite to sump