Zoas not opening

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Aqauclear

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How many gallons is your tank? You need a 6-10 times turnover ratio minimum. Some even like higher, especially if you run/want to run SPS. So for example if your tank is 10 gallons you want between 60 and 100gph per hour.
EDIT: For another example for "higher" turnover my 125 gallon tank has around 3000gph+ going through it. Which is a 24 times turnover. Some go a lot higher then that. Flow is good, the only time it's bad is if your fish are basically sticking to the walls LOL :p:eek:
Is 540 gph good for a 20 gallon
 

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Is 540 gph good for a 20 gallon
Yes 540 is more then enough. You have a 27 times turnover. As ive said, move the zoas to a medium flow.light section on the rocks after blowing off all the green slime/hair algae. Do a water change to get those phosphates and nitrates down a bit and they should open up by tomorrow or then next day. :)
 
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Yes 540 is more then enough. You have a 27 times turnover. As ive said, move the zoas to a medium flow.light section on the rocks after blowing off all the green slime/hair algae. Do a water change to get those phosphates and nitrates down a bit and they should open up by tomorrow or then next day. :)
My zoanthids are still finicky all my other corals are doing fine 3 frags melted and one half gone and one red zoanthid is still closed the others have opened up and the rest are peeking a bit. my nitrates are at 20 ppm still wating for my salifert phosphate test kit
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My zoanthids are still finicky all my other corals are doing fine 3 frags melted and one half gone and one red zoanthid is still closed the others have opened up and the rest are peeking a bit. my nitrates are at 20 ppm still wating for my salifert phosphate test kit
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Your nitrates are way to high at 20ppm. You should do a big water change and i don't know how much you are feeding, but stop feeding as much. Some corals like dirtier water, up to around 10ppm, but 20ppm is really pushing it. Im starting to lean on water quality more then flow. Im sure your phosphates are really high too.
 
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Your nitrates are way to high at 20ppm. You should do a big water change and i don't know how much you are feeding, but stop feeding as much. Some corals like dirtier water, up to around 10ppm, but 20ppm is really pushing it. Im starting to lean on water quality more then flow. Im sure your phosphates are really high too.
I did a big water change 2 days ago my nitrates are still 20 ppm I stopped feeding my clowns and damsel every day and I now only feed every 3 days my api test kit are accurate except for phosphates and nitrates still read Nitrate 20 ppm phosphate 0.25 I ordered nopox and a new test kit I feel like my filtration isn't good enough denitrate media doesn't work carbon in hob fliter, sponge and a skimmer. I don't have the time to get a sump set up
 

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I did a big water change 2 days ago my nitrates are still 20 ppm I stopped feeding my clowns and damsel every day and I now only feed every 3 days my api test kit are accurate except for phosphates and nitrates still read Nitrate 20 ppm phosphate 0.25 I ordered nopox and a new test kit I feel like my filtration isn't good enough denitrate media doesn't work carbon in hob fliter, sponge and a skimmer. I don't have the time to get a sump set up
I would still do another water change, then test. If that doesmt bring it down, the testing isn't accurate. It's also not good to feed every 3 days IMO. The longest you should go between is 2 days. How much do you feed and what is your stocking again? You might just be overfeeding overall.
 
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I would still do another water change, then test. If that doesmt bring it down, the testing isn't accurate. It's also not good to feed every 3 days IMO. The longest you should go between is 2 days. How much do you feed and what is your stocking again? You might just be overfeeding overall.
I have two clownfish and one damsel fish I usually fed them every day I've had problems in the past with my old clownfish geting ich so I'm very paranoid so I feed them quite alot to build there immune system 2-3pellets for each clown and a few flakes for the damsel in the past I did use reef rods for my coral until algae kept growing
 
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I have two clownfish and one damsel fish I usually fed them every day I've had problems in the past with my old clownfish geting ich so I'm very paranoid so I feed them quite alot to build there immune system 2-3pellets for each clown and a few flakes for the damsel in the past I did use reef rods for my coral until algae kept growing
I would stop with the reef roids until you get your nitrates down. Your corals have more then enough nitrates and phosphates in the water right now and most corals don't really need food, they get all their energy from the light and elements in the water, so no need to worry :) There is no problem feeding them everyday if they eat all the food offered to them. I feed daily. I use two cubes of PE mysis, 1 similar size chunk of reef freenzy as the two cubes, 3 krill ripped up into small pieces and 5 full krill(to my snow flake eel)A good general rule of thumb is feed them enough so that within 2 minutes everything is gone, after that is just starts breaking down.
Im not a big flake person being in the freshwater hobby ive found it causes a lot of issues with nitrates and phosphates if fish dont eat them and they just float. I would substitute it with mysis shrimp. The cubes also help so you know how much you are feeding since anyone who ever used flake food has given a dash/pinch too much before LOL.
I think once you get your nitrates down a bit everything will start working wonders :)
 
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I would stop with the reef roids until you get your nitrates down. Your corals have more then enough nitrates and phosphates in the water right now and most corals don't really need food, they get all their energy from the light and elements in the water, so no need to worry :) There is no problem feeding them everyday if they eat all the food offered to them. I feed daily. I use two cubes of PE mysis, 1 similar size chunk of reef freenzy as the two cubes, 3 krill ripped up into small pieces and 5 full krill(to my snow flake eel)A good general rule of thumb is feed them enough so that within 2 minutes everything is gone, after that is just starts breaking down.
Im not a big flake person being in the freshwater hobby ive found it causes a lot of issues with nitrates and phosphates if fish dont eat them and they just float. I would substitute it with mysis shrimp. The cubes also help so you know how much you are feeding since anyone who ever used flake food has given a dash/pinch too much before LOL.
I think once you get your nitrates down a bit everything will start working wonders :)
My nitrates dropped about to 5.0 ppm overnight with water change
 
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I would stop with the reef roids until you get your nitrates down. Your corals have more then enough nitrates and phosphates in the water right now and most corals don't really need food, they get all their energy from the light and elements in the water, so no need to worry :) There is no problem feeding them everyday if they eat all the food offered to them. I feed daily. I use two cubes of PE mysis, 1 similar size chunk of reef freenzy as the two cubes, 3 krill ripped up into small pieces and 5 full krill(to my snow flake eel)A good general rule of thumb is feed them enough so that within 2 minutes everything is gone, after that is just starts breaking down.
Im not a big flake person being in the freshwater hobby ive found it causes a lot of issues with nitrates and phosphates if fish dont eat them and they just float. I would substitute it with mysis shrimp. The cubes also help so you know how much you are feeding since anyone who ever used flake food has given a dash/pinch too much before LOL.
I think once you get your nitrates down a bit everything will start working wonders :)
help! 4 of my zoanthids are doing fine but 5 frags are still closed and one is pelling off from the frag Nitrates 5.0 pmm phosphate 0
 

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too much flow can keep the closed. Do you have power heads pointed right at the zoa.

Slow down on the changes. One at a time and wait a bit. Than the next one.
 
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If it was the flow then all of my zoanthids would be having the same problem I've heard that not all zoanthids are the same with light and flow but I've had them before all opening 5 weeks ago with the exact same amount of flow and lighting one of my zoanthids has lost some many heads and the flesh is thorned the other end of it heads are pelling off.
 
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I've noticed this on my clownfish before but my clownfish may be trying to host my zoanthids?the two of them have black spots on them and blacks patches on their mouth, I see them nip on my zoanthids when there closed could them hosting cause death to my zoanthids
 

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Will my zoanthid recover from the heads that melted off or is it a goner
I've noticed this on my clownfish before but my clownfish may be trying to host my zoanthids?the two of them have black spots on them and blacks patches on their mouth, I see them nip on my zoanthids when there closed could them hosting cause death to my zoanthids
A picture would help, they are hardy little guys that can comeback from a lot. The high nitrates were a likely cause, try keeping them under 10PPM. 5ppm is great, try keeping it there if you can.
I have a clown goby that sits on zoas all day long, a fish sitting on them wont causing them to melt, just close up.
The black could be a pest, give us pictures, they tell a thousand words :)
 
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A picture would help, they are hardy little guys that can comeback from a lot. The high nitrates were a likely cause, try keeping them under 10PPM. 5ppm is great, try keeping it there if you can.
I have a clown goby that sits on zoas all day long, a fish sitting on them wont causing them to melt, just close up.
The black could be a pest, give us pictures, they tell a thousand words :)
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