Zoas not opening.

[mushrommy]

So I got some zoas but my amphipods won't stop walking on them and won't allow them to open. How can I stop this?

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

can you post some pics of the zoa's? How long have you had them? How long have they been closed? What are the water parameters? What kind of lighting and flow?

 

[mushrommy]

can you post some pics of the zoa's? How long have you had them? How long have they been closed? What are the water parameters? What kind of lighting and flow?

I've had them for a week. I moved then to the rock work yesterday because I thought the sand had a bigger population of amphipods but the rocks have larger population. I have them on a low to moderate lighting and moderate to high flow. I'll soon post a pic

 

[mushrommy]

can you post some pics of the zoa's? How long have you had them? How long have they been closed? What are the water parameters? What kind of lighting and flow?

Here's a pic my phone hates me. It makes everything look bright or dark.

 

[To(meany)Tang]

Are they consistently keeping them from opening like always on them. Or do you notice a couple every now and then ?

 

[mushrommy]

Are they consistently keeping them from opening like always on them. Or do you notice a couple every now and then ?

A couple of the rastas now and then but not with the fruit loops.

 

[To(meany)Tang]

A couple of the rastas now and then but not with the fruit loops.

My assumption is they are still adapting. It takes a good week or 3 depending on the coral to start adjusting to your parameters and are comfy. Reason I say that is zoas are resilient. They might close for a sec if something brushes it but they always open right back up.

 

[mushrommy]

My assumption is they are still adapting. It takes a good week or 3 depending on the coral to start adjusting to your parameters and are comfy. Reason I say that is zoas are resilient. They might close for a sec if something brushes it but they always open right back up.

Ok, I'll wait a week and see what happens.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Here's a pic my phone hates me. It makes everything look bright or dark.

These are showing melting opposed to stress from Pods. It can be to too much light or water flow, sudden change of parameters and even use of vodka or carbon dosing that reduces nitrate quickly. Assure salinity and Phos has not become elevated.
Oten a simple dip in Lugols iodine can perk them up. There are a number of factors why zoas close up especially water movement/flow as zoas do not require the consistent high flow conditions that SPS corals do. I would consider running moderate flow which is ideal but Zoa can adapt to low or high flow. In high flow, you will typically see polyps grow closer to the rock with shorter stalks.
Another is lack of feeding and food as infrequent feeding and low nutrients can lead to an entire colony melting down. You dont need to target feed as zoas are photosynthetic. It is generally found that target feeding zoas always provides mixed results when a food falls onto their polyps.

Back to parameters, good water quality is a must.
dKH: 8.0 - 11
Calcium: 400 - 450
Magnesium: 1300 - 1350
Iodide: Maintained via regular water changes or manually at small dosages
Temperature: 78-79 degrees
pH: 8.1-8.3
Phosphates: .06 - .08
Nitrates < 15
Temperature and pests are often blamed. Spiders although super tiny can be spotted going into heads of zoa and if you have asterina stars- they are prime suspects as are rabbitfish and butterfly fish and dwarf angels.

 

[To(meany)Tang]

These are showing melting opposed to stress from Pods. It can be to too much light or water flow, sudden change of parameters and even use of vodka or carbon dosing that reduces nitrate quickly. Assure salinity and Phos has not become elevated.
Oten a simple dip in Lugols iodine can perk them up. There are a number of factors why zoas close up especially water movement/flow as zoas do not require the consistent high flow conditions that SPS corals do. I would consider running moderate flow which is ideal but Zoa can adapt to low or high flow. In high flow, you will typically see polyps grow closer to the rock with shorter stalks.
Another is lack of feeding and food as infrequent feeding and low nutrients can lead to an entire colony melting down. You dont need to target feed as zoas are photosynthetic. It is generally found that target feeding zoas always provides mixed results when a food falls onto their polyps.

Back to parameters, good water quality is a must.
dKH: 8.0 - 11
Calcium: 400 - 450
Magnesium: 1300 - 1350
Iodide: Maintained via regular water changes or manually at small dosages
Temperature: 78-79 degrees
pH: 8.1-8.3
Phosphates: .06 - .08
Nitrates < 15
Temperature and pests are often blamed. Spiders although super tiny can be spotted going into heads of zoa and if you have asterina stars- they are prime suspects as are rabbitfish and butterfly fish and dwarf angels.

Question vette..what indicator led you to say melting? I received some zoa frags that looked similar with tiny heads but the didn't melt?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Question vette..what indicator led you to say melting? I received some zoa frags that looked similar with tiny heads but the didn't melt?

That mash potato effect which the heads are like melting ice cream

 

[kevgib67]

Could you isolate them on a frag rack a few inches above the sand.

 

[mushrommy]

That mash potato effect which the heads are like melting ice cream

I'm sorry but the heads aren't melting. My phone hates me and it's just blurry.

 

[mushrommy]

Could you isolate them on a frag rack a few inches above the sand.

That's what I was thinking. Maybe even try to make a back wall of zoas.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I'm sorry but the heads aren't melting. My phone hates me and it's just blurry.

Can you provide a clearer pic under white lighting?

 

[mushrommy]

Can you provide a clearer pic under white lighting?

Here you go

 

[vetteguy53081]

Here you go

I suspect low light or flow as an issue. I in order to keep sediment off of them run moderate to medium flow and feed 2x a week and add iodide which they convert to iodine 2x a week along with parameters mentioned.
This is some of my many colonies: