Any 80/20 T slot guru willing to help an newb out?

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exnisstech

exnisstech

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Finished product. Being hinged is so sweet. I bought everything from 80/20. I figured they deserved the biz since it's their software. Plus with all the items needed one stop shopping is the way to go IMO. I never have understood how people can have $20k invested in a system and complain about salt prices going up a buck or two :thinking-face:

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Modified for three Gen 4 xr15s until I move the noopsyche K7s over from my other tank.

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I'm in the planning stages of an aquarium upgrade, so I have plenty of time. Not going to really start until after our master bathroom remodel (that's another joy ;-)). I appreciate your time on this. I took a look at Sketchup, but didn't want to pay $120 for something I wouldn't use that often.

Your questions:
1) How far from the wall are you planning on have the tank/stand located?
Currently, the existing aquarium is 4.5" from the back wall and just under 5.5" from the side wall. The wall that the aquarium backs to is 30 3/4" wide - it's like a little nook. I'll provide a picture.

2) How high is the ceiling?
10ft - however it backs to a stairway.

3) Do you want the lifting mechanism motorized?
Hmmm....that's an interesting option. Don't need, but I would put that in the nice to have.

4) Let me know which light goes where. (IE, is one centered with tank and how far away are the others.)
if I do a Kessil A360x, that would be in the middle. The Reefi Uno 2 Pro OR XR30 would be on either side evenly distributed over the aquarium.

5) Are there any other room constraints? (IE nearby side walls.)
Stairs. A 4 footer would fit there....had to do some selling on it!

The current aquarium is a Red Sea 200xl 23.5" W x 22.5" D x 56" H total system. So the Peninsula 500 would be higher (63" per site), 25" D and longer (49.7"), of course.

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Thanks again!
Oh yes, house remodeling, joy-O-joy!!:face-with-rolling-eyes: If your wife's like mine it's like painting the Golden Gate bridge, start at one end, paint to the other, then start again.:confounded-face::rolling-on-the-floor-laughing: But that will give me plenty of time.
You can download the SketchUp 2017 version for free. That's the one I use and can just send you the file to view. That makes it much easier to see the details.
This should be fairly easy and is a great insomnia filler for me.
 

BR260354

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@BR260354 Quick question, do you happen to know where the wall studs are located?
I have access to that wall. In fact, it's a return air "room" that I have most of my controllers and power located for the aquarium, so pretty convenient. As far as studs, they don't quite line up for a center, but I could add horizontal 2x4 between the studs. There is a horizontal about 12.5" from the floor and another 44" high. I can add more above. The board that is 44" from the floor is behind this equipment:
1711499100319.jpeg

Probably behind the Hydros X4 and Kraken. BTW, the Hydros controllers will probably move to the cabinet of the peninsula. Can't squeeze that into my current cabinet.
 

BR260354

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@BR260354 , is this rough draft close to what you're thinking?
BR260354.png
Yep, pretty much. Does the piece that is mounted on the wall, should that be longer for the rail to slide? Oh, I guess it depends on which one slides. For this, the rail mounted to the rail on the wall is the one that slides, correct?

Do I need both brakes? I think I may have enough room for those brake handles.

For the lights, I MAY do 3 Reefi's....still researching that piece.

EDIT!! - So, not to throw things off, but what if I use a different, heavier light or lights?? Looking at Orphek. The 24" light is 15lbs....so might be two of those. I have a feeling I am pushing it! Another option is Orphek Compact at 9lbs each and it may be 3 of those.

Thanks for putting this together. I hope it wasn't too much trouble.
 
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Yep, pretty much. Does the piece that is mounted on the wall, should that be longer for the rail to slide? Oh, I guess it depends on which one slides. For this, the rail mounted to the rail on the wall is the one that slides, correct?

Do I need both brakes? I think I may have enough room for those brake handles.

For the lights, I MAY do 3 Reefi's....still researching that piece.

EDIT!! - So, not to throw things off, but what if I use a different, heavier light or lights?? Looking at Orphek. The 24" light is 15lbs....so might be two of those. I have a feeling I am pushing it! Another option is Orphek Compact at 9lbs each and it may be 3 of those.

Thanks for putting this together. I hope it wasn't too much trouble.
You are correct on the sliding rail being the one closer to the tank.
You could probably use just one brake. I just copied and moved the second one down. The brake handle can be placed on either side or the front of the linear bearing.
As modeled, using the 1515ULS profile with 10lbs of light evenly distributed, the deflection (sag) according to 80/20's calculator worked out to be .0442". (Or about 4 human hairs)
If three 15lbs light were to be used, it calculates out to .1645".
If two 15lbs lights were to be used, it calculates out to .1129".
You're welcome, no trouble (except cleaning out the garage and having the hot water tank go at at the same time. Not quite as bad as remodeling.:confounded-face::beaming-face-with-smiling-eyes:)
As it is, you should be able to lift it 24". Changing the length of the sliding vertical beam can adjust that if you want more or less. Is there anything else you would like to change? Would you like the dimensions as figured?;)
 

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You are correct on the sliding rail being the one closer to the tank.
You could probably use just one brake. I just copied and moved the second one down. The brake handle can be placed on either side or the front of the linear bearing.
As modeled, using the 1515ULS profile with 10lbs of light evenly distributed, the deflection (sag) according to 80/20's calculator worked out to be .0442". (Or about 4 human hairs)
If three 15lbs light were to be used, it calculates out to .1645".
If two 15lbs lights were to be used, it calculates out to .1129".
You're welcome, no trouble (except cleaning out the garage and having the hot water tank go at at the same time. Not quite as bad as remodeling.:confounded-face::beaming-face-with-smiling-eyes:)
As it is, you should be able to lift it 24". Changing the length of the sliding vertical beam can adjust that if you want more or less. Is there anything else you would like to change? Would you like the dimensions as figured?;)
Wow, so 30lbs would deflect 0.1129"! I thought it would be a lot more.

I'm thinking of two options, if you don't mine. The first is as is, perfect. That would give me 2 XR30 / Reefi Uno with the correct spacing. Just need the parts list.

The second is if I were to go with Orphek. Since they don't have a center mounting method, and if I do 2 of them, I may need cross rails (4) used to mount the the lights, and the rail over the tank would pretty much have to reach to the end of the peninsula.

Come to think about it, I guess I could mount the cross rail directly on the lights and then slide into place. Either way, additional weight, but it seems it won't make too much of a different.

Bummer on the water heater. It may not be as bad as a master bath remodel, but a drag and mess to deal with anyway. Living in a townhouse, there is only one bathroom on the bedroom floor, so, in middle of the night....downstairs you go! :oops:

BTW, any experience with Orphek? Reefi?
 

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Wow, so 30lbs would deflect 0.1129"! I thought it would be a lot more.

I'm thinking of two options, if you don't mine. The first is as is, perfect. That would give me 2 XR30 / Reefi Uno with the correct spacing. Just need the parts list.

The second is if I were to go with Orphek. Since they don't have a center mounting method, and if I do 2 of them, I may need cross rails (4) used to mount the the lights, and the rail over the tank would pretty much have to reach to the end of the peninsula.

Come to think about it, I guess I could mount the cross rail directly on the lights and then slide into place. Either way, additional weight, but it seems it won't make too much of a different.

Bummer on the water heater. It may not be as bad as a master bath remodel, but a drag and mess to deal with anyway. Living in a townhouse, there is only one bathroom on the bedroom floor, so, in middle of the night....downstairs you go! :oops:

BTW, any experience with Orphek? Reefi?
Eh, water heater is in. Just get tired of dealing with some of the extra building codes and ridiculous inspectors in this state. Inspector complained that the insulation was too close to the vent pipe. (It was 5 inches away and it has to be 6 inches away. Don't know why the installer did that.) So I took off the insulation. He said I had to have the insulation on there. I then pointed out to him that it was on the cold water inlet side and then asked if there was a new code that required the water to be below a certain temperature before going into the water HEATER!!:face-with-rolling-eyes::rolling-on-the-floor-laughing: He promptly signed it off and left. Oh the joys of life! Still laughing at this one.
Anyway, can you tell me exactly which model Orphek you're thinking of. I've never used either Orphek or Reefi.
The dimensions will change on the beam going out over the tank or I could just design it with the largest needed. Either way, it's easier to change it now than after it's ordered.
 

BR260354

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The joy of inspectors. So, really, you needed an inspector to sign off for a water heater replacement?? Wow.

Orphek Icon, if I go that route (still researching and OVER analyzing)
Dimensions
Length: 24.21” (615mm)
Width: 9.37” (238mm)
Height: 2.11” (53.6mm)

Have a great weekend!
 
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exnisstech

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The joy of inspectors. So, really, you needed an inspector to sign off for a water heater replacement?? Wow.
I was thinking the same thing. That's nuts. We had our home built and moved in with out any inspection. I built my pole building , installed a furnace. Ran propane and did all of the wiring my self with no inspection. I love living in the sticks.
 

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The joy of inspectors. So, really, you needed an inspector to sign off for a water heater replacement?? Wow.

Orphek Icon, if I go that route (still researching and OVER analyzing)
Dimensions
Length: 24.21” (615mm)
Width: 9.37” (238mm)
Height: 2.11” (53.6mm)

Have a great weekend!
Okay, if you go with two Orphek Icons, what configuration were you thinking? I.E.,
End to end,
Configuration end to end.jpg

Side by side 1
Configuration side by side 1.jpg

Side by side 2
Configuration side by side 2.jpg

or maybe something a little more customized?
Configuration customized.jpg

Any of them are easy enough to do.
 

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Are you going to be using their "light support bars" or are you thinking of using something else?
Are you okay with doing a little drilling and tapping?
 

BR260354

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Are you going to be using their "light support bars" or are you thinking of using something else?
Are you okay with doing a little drilling and tapping?
looking at it, I may move away from the Orphek now. Sorry for that work.

After all that, I may be just right back to Radions....that should be easy enough on the 1515 ULS. I may be using a hybrid mount for the lights and then mount that to the 1515.

Thanks again!
 

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@Reefer Reboot - sorry to trouble. Would you have to have the parts list for the 8020 build with a 3 XR15 G6 or 3 AI Blade configuration?

Thanks!

Here's the basic light fixture with dimensions and part #s.
Dimensions.jpg

Part #s from 80/20 website (only because I use their dimensions in my modeling.)
3075 Piece that mounts to wall, can be longer if you want.
1515-ULS profile, 2 pieces
4351 90* Corner Plates, 2 pieces
6515 Linear bearing, 2 pieces
6800 or 6802 (Your choice) Linear Bearing Brake Kit, 1 or 2 pieces
2030-Plain End Cap, 3 pieces
And the nuts, washers and bolts.
These parts also come in black if you want.
You can also look at other manufacturers for price comparison.
 

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