I'm going to use this thread to lay out how I'm quarantining and to journal this experience as I go through it.
In researching all the stuff involved with this, I would find information more helpful knowing it was recent as opposed to, say, 5 years old. For instance, some of the older posts recommend stopping at therapeutic copper levels of 2.0ppm. But more recently it has been advised to go up to 2.5ppm. There has also been more recent confirmation on being able to use Prime with Copper Power which is good to know if you have an ammonia spike in your QT and a water change isn't possible.
QT1 — Fish-only
Tank Setup
QT2 — Inverts
Tank Setup
NOTE
Each tank has its own net, it’s own siphon, it’s own hydrometer and whatever else (baster, etc) is needed to keep cross-contamination from happening. When mixing water, the fish-only tank's allotment will get poured into a separate bucket in which I can pre-dose copper before pouring it into the tank. I never dose copper into my main mixing tub so as not to introduce any trace amounts of it into the invertebrate tank (or the display tank) which could be fatal to the invertebrates. Those are my guys!
Also, both tanks are in high traffic areas of the house where everyone in the fam can observe them throughout the day.
But don't take my word for it!
How to Quarantine
My Current QT Process
Quarantine Setup Made Easy
Coral/Invert Quarantine Time Frames
The Dos and Don'ts of Quarantine
How to Acclimate
Ammonia Control in a Hospital Tank
Ratios for Dosing Copper Power
Medications to Keep on Hand
In researching all the stuff involved with this, I would find information more helpful knowing it was recent as opposed to, say, 5 years old. For instance, some of the older posts recommend stopping at therapeutic copper levels of 2.0ppm. But more recently it has been advised to go up to 2.5ppm. There has also been more recent confirmation on being able to use Prime with Copper Power which is good to know if you have an ammonia spike in your QT and a water change isn't possible.
QT1 — Fish-only
Tank Setup
- 10gal (Aqueon from Petco)
- bare bottom
- 3 PVC pipes for hiding
- HOB Seachem Tidal filter (rated for 35gal)
- Marineland Maxi-Jet 600 (for its adaptability), configured as powerhead pointing upwards (also has Venturi hose attached)
- Eheim Jager 50w heater
- Zacro LCD digital thermometer
- Seachem Ammonia Alert badge
- glass lid also bought at Petco
- no light
- 2x Mocha Clownfish
- 1x Purple Firefish
- 1x Yellow Watchman Goby
- 1x Barnacle Blenny
QT2 — Inverts
Tank Setup
- 5.5gal (Aqueon from Petco)
- some dry rock
- 10lbs of sand
- HOB Seachem Tidal filter (rated for 35gal)
- Eheim Jager 50w heater
- Zacro LCD digital thermometer
- Seachem Ammonia Alert badge
- glass lid also bought at Petco
- no light
- 10x snails
- 10x blue hermit crabs
- 1x peppermint shrimp (molted after 6 days, so we transferred it to the DT (first inhabitant!))
- 1x tiger pistol shrimp
NOTE
Each tank has its own net, it’s own siphon, it’s own hydrometer and whatever else (baster, etc) is needed to keep cross-contamination from happening. When mixing water, the fish-only tank's allotment will get poured into a separate bucket in which I can pre-dose copper before pouring it into the tank. I never dose copper into my main mixing tub so as not to introduce any trace amounts of it into the invertebrate tank (or the display tank) which could be fatal to the invertebrates. Those are my guys!
Also, both tanks are in high traffic areas of the house where everyone in the fam can observe them throughout the day.
But don't take my word for it!
How to Quarantine
My Current QT Process
Quarantine Setup Made Easy
Coral/Invert Quarantine Time Frames
The Dos and Don'ts of Quarantine
How to Acclimate
Ammonia Control in a Hospital Tank
Ratios for Dosing Copper Power
Medications to Keep on Hand