There is also a sponge filter and a heater. I do have Seachem ammonia badge to monitor that and a temp probe to monitor thee temp also.. that's it for equipment.. pretty simple set up
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I added 4ml more and tested again.. I got a 1.6 reading. Ill test again tomorrow and again Friday to see if any absorption is happening. I have a HOB filter on there with a month and a half old bag with only 1/2 cup of GAC. The package says if the carbon was more than two weeks old to just leave it in there.. I had QT'd a Chromis prior to these two with hypo.. Its possible the carbon has absorbed some but I'll monitor it. I'm ordering more packets this weekend. First time using copper in a QT. its been interesting. LOL the fish are doing fine tho. They're eating at least.
When I Do water Changes my copper levels drop, but then I raised them after water change, it dropped slightly but I raised it within few mins does this mean I have to restart the 30 days?Copper: Treats Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) and Marine Velvet Disease (Amyloodinium ocellatum). There is some anecdotal evidence that copper will suppress symptoms of Brooklynella hostilis and Uronema marinum; however it is unlikely to completely eradicate either pathogen.
How To Treat - First, it is important to know what kind of copper you are using. Cupramine is fully charged (ionic) copper, and has a therapeutic range of 0.4-0.5 mg/L or ppm. You would use a Seachem or Salifert copper test kit for Cupramine, as those are capable of reading copper in the low range. Copper Power, on the other hand, is chelated copper. It has a much higher therapeutic range of 1.5-2.0 mg/L or ppm. As such, you need a “total copper test kit” such as API.
In addition to the aforementioned hobbyist grade test kits, the Hanna High Range Copper Colorimeter (HI702) is capable of reading all forms of copper. More info on that and other applicable copper test kits here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/copper-test-kits.257924/
Standard copper treatment lasts 30 consecutive days. The reason it takes so long is copper only targets the “free swimming stage” (the same holds true for all chemical treatments & hypo). While 7-14 days is the “norm” to reach this stage, certain strains of ich have a prolonged life cycle. Indeed, even 30 days may not be sufficient in some rare cases. This is why it is so important to observe after treatment ends, to ensure symptoms do not return.
A therapeutic level must be maintained at all times during the 30 days, so testing often is important. If the level drops even slightly out of range, then the 30 day clock restarts. One reason your copper level may drop unexpectedly is if you are treating in a tank with rock and substrate; these should be avoided with copper due to absorption. Conversely, if you exceed the therapeutic range you risk killing the fish.
Copper is a poison, pure and simple. It only works because most fish are able to withstand being in it longer than the parasites. Knowing this, it is wise to raise your copper level very slowly (over 5-7 days) instead of the usual 24-48 hour label directions. Doing so increases your odds of successfully treating a “copper sensitive” fish. The one exception to this rule is if Marine Velvet Disease is suspected. Due to it's fast killing nature you would want to raise the copper level to therapeutic within 24-48 hours when treating for velvet. Remove copper after 30 days by doing a large water change and using a Poly Filter, Cuprisorb, etc.
Pros - Readily available.
Cons/Side Effects - Appetite suppression and lethargy are both common side effects. If a fish stops eating completely, perform water changes (to lower the copper concentration) until he eats. If this happens a second time after you resume raising the copper, you’ll know you’ve encountered a “copper sensitive” fish and an alternative treatment should be used instead. (Note: Anytime you lower the copper level below therapeutic, the 30 day treatment clock begins anew once the copper is raised back up.)
To see which species copper should and should not be used on, consult this chart: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/fish-and-treatment-guidelines-with-chart.283450/
When I Do water Changes my copper levels drop, but then I raised them after water change, it dropped slightly but I raised it within few mins does this mean I have to restart the 30 days?
I am using cupramine so it was from 4.5 the dropped down too 3.5 cause I forgot to add copper to the newly mixed saltwater. Well i'm only 8 days into it so no big deal I plan on treating for 30 days.You should restart the clock yes. How low did the level drop? How many days into therapeutic treatment were you when this happened?
I was curious, will copper levels drop slowly over time? I've been keeping track of my copper levels in QT since getting my Hanna last week. I dosed 1.5ml on Saturday after pulling the old bag of carbon in the HOB filter earlier in the day when my first test showed it had dropped from the previous levels. I figured I was getting some absorption from the GAC. Its never gotten below therapeutic levels but I have noticed a decrease over the last week. Saturday's test was 1.78ppm. Todays was 1.68ppm. There is a sponge filter connected to an air pump along with the HOB. Its mainly on there for circulation and for when I need to run a poly filter after copper treatment is done. Is it normal for copper levels to fluctuate like that or am I experiencing some absorption there? Perhaps the sponge filter?
Agree with this.Likely slight absorption. Probably the sponge material. If I had to guess.
I can certainly see evaporation playing a factor. And the benefits from having a sponge filter far out weigh not having one even if it does absorb some of the copper. It's a good thing Hanna came out with a more accurate way of monitoring the level and adjust accordingly. Tests like API and others are to close in shade too see accurately IMO
Thanks, thats good news. I will probably transfer this afternoon then.@Fizbang
You should be fine. Any trophonts that were attached to the fish "should" have dropped off the fish in the 7-10 day range.
Since you are leaving I would go ahead and transfer the fish a bit early.
I just didn't want them to have to worry about making sure the copper stayed at the proper levels since they aren't really fish keepers.Just a question: Would ‘whomever’ will be caring for and feeding your fish while you are away on vacation not just as easily be able to care for them in your copper-treated tank?... meaning a few more days/week’s in the copper, if you are unsure of the risk of removing them from copper hours/days too early? Either that, or go with @HotRocks
I just didn't want them to have to worry about making sure the copper stayed at the proper levels since they aren't really fish keepers.