Dry rock simple cycle question

[scubatan]

Just seeking some affirmation for my first tank cycle. Using dry rock and sand.
Heater & salt water in. Filters out.
Add dose of fritz 9 & a couple pinches of fish food.
Wait 15 days, big water change. Done?

Trying to keep it simple and not rush it. I’ve read both people testing ammonia, nitrite and nitrate daily and also people just waiting 15 days no testing.

Appreciate any thoughts!

 

[Uncle99]

I would add the Fritz and a pinch of food, add some flow, and wait only 2 days to add first two fish.

I’ve never tested ammonia or nitrite, it’s a given.

 

[scubatan]

I would add the Fritz and a pinch of food, add some flow, and wait only 2 days to add first two fish.

I’ve never tested ammonia or nitrite, it’s a given.

Thanks, so a couple fish after just 2 days is fine, then wait a couple weeks before a water change and other livestock/corals?

 

[Garf]

Just seeking some affirmation for my first tank cycle. Using dry rock and sand.
Heater & salt water in. Filters out.
Add dose of fritz 9 & a couple pinches of fish food.
Wait 15 days, big water change. Done?

Trying to keep it simple and not rush it. I’ve read both people testing ammonia, nitrite and nitrate daily and also people just waiting 15 days no testing.

Appreciate any thoughts!

So this is the Fritzyme 9, not the Fritzyme turbo start 900? This is your first ever fish tank? Do you understand what a "Fish In" cycle is, and the risks?

 

[scubatan]

So this is the Fritzyme 9, not the Fritzyme turbo start 900? This is your first ever fish tank? Do you understand what a "Fish In" cycle is, and the risks?

I’ve seen people use both, is the bacteria content different enough to matter?
I understand a fish in cycle but my plan is to use a couple pinches of food instead

 

[bizzynewreefs]

Thanks, so a couple fish after just 2 days is fine, then wait a couple weeks before a water change and other livestock/corals?

I would consider cycling the tank before adding fish...or you'll come about loads of issues and possibly dead livestock. Take it slow don't rush things....rushing in this hobby leads to bad things.

 

[scubatan]

I would consider cycling the tank before adding fish...or you'll come about loads of issues and possibly dead livestock. Take it slow don't rush things....rushing in this hobby leads to bad things.

Yea I don’t feel the need to take any risks so will do the fish food with bacteria and wait 15 days

 

[brandon429]

Your plan will work for testless cycling

Cycling with fritz cycling bacteria is as simple as the stated plan. There's nothing more to it, fifteen days will always cover you in that arrangement. Use Dr Tims if you want, it's cheaper/ one and only/ run the same approach.


The risk you face is disease import, not from cycling, nobody can link us a failed cycle to see where all the fish died. What we can see for losses are disease based and that has nothing to do with cycle type.

Run your cycle plan but spend five days self directed study in the disease forum, by able to understand fallow and quarantine, how stocking fish first vs last affects disease vectoring etc

 

[brandon429]

Doing a test- cycle that takes you 45 days to complete doesn't make you a better filter than the 15 day plan and it doesn't help you with disease. It's OK to do the cycle the old way, just know it doesn't give you any benefits.

*i specifically search for and collect failed cycles where the fish died. I can't find any, I've never seen one example tied to ammonia. If anyone reading has a loss example i need it to be a thread they've posted in/ actually experienced/ then we can relate the details to ammonia if applicable.

searching out a random web post based on the title from 2014 isn't the same, those losses could be acclimation errors or have details we don't know that are unspoken

If anyone has a thread of that specific outcome I would like to have it for my collection.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I personally cannot ever see a reason to not dose ammonia and check it 24 h later. How much work is that?

The OP plan may fail if, for example, the bottle of bacteria sat on a hot truck in the sun and went bad.

Verifying that it worked seems a very minimal way to ensure success.

 

[brandon429]

= testing with cheap test kits using the rule ammonia must always be zero in a reef tank is the cause of 540000 false stuck cycle threads where nobody discusses disease at all, ever, is why I stopped with the old method.

I like the new method because it has perfect results. But given the lack of links for failed old methods, I'm surprised testing was ever positioned as important using any approach. It's not like there's 5 fail examples out there we've seen, or one I can find... results skew always in favor of cycle success it seems regardless of the method.

 

[brandon429]

I don't think it's bad to use the old way. Just be reading in the disease forum for the 45 day wait to pure zero nitrite.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

How can it possibly hurt to add ammonia and measure it 24 h later? 1 day, not 45 days.

I'm not saying it needs to read zero. If it drops from 2 ppm to 0.5 ppm or less (allowing for test error), it's good to go.

 

[Garf]

How can it possibly hurt to add ammonia and measure it 24 h later? 1 day, not 45 days.

I'm not saying it needs to read zero. If it drops from 2 ppm to 0.5 ppm or less (allowing for test error), it's good to go.

He's talking about nitrite.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Yea I don’t feel the need to take any risks so will do the fish food with bacteria and wait 15 days

You are on the right track as far as patience and hour plan seems fine. I will agree with Randy, Garf, etc. that testing can never hurt and is part of the learning experience and formation of good habits. As others have indicated, if all goes wall testing ammonia may be a formality but it may also save you trouble if there was a problem. Not everything goes as planned each and very time because each system is different.

If you take the entire first year or so of your reef experience with the same level of patience, then you are more likely to be here 5 years from now contributing to the community. Most people who rush things end up leaving in frustration with much lighter wallets. Slow and steady usually prevails in reef keeping.

 

[brandon429]

Garf there's no argument conspiracy here.

The op asked about the time- based method and I responded based on our similar jobs. The plan will work as it always does. The fish food component makes up for dead bottle bac rarities; that's long enough for food- only cycling to lay down a base layer safely


As long as the op gets ready for disease it won't matter how they test. Certainly no harm to run a test kit if you want to.

Waiting until nitrite is zero is part and parcel of all old cycling approaches. If we're going to do a test based cycle, then do a test based cycle and be off the fence. Both Taricha and Lasse routinely ask for nitrite data in their cycle works.

The confusion that will come if the ammonia test isn't viewed as correct will be the same confusion as factoring nitrite like millions of cyclers do.

If the old way has more appeal, better fish safety outcome, then use that way. I'm simply stating any way you cycle this setup will be fine: if you want your fish to live past eight months after then know Jay's fish disease forum highlights.

Any material the OP read regarding testless cycling already saw the disease preps listed up front as the need, just reinforcing that here for new readers.

 

[Uncle99]

Thanks, so a couple fish after just 2 days is fine, then wait a couple weeks before a water change and other livestock/corals?

Yup, that’s all do!

I hate paying $50 for two tests I use once.

I do use a blend of Fritz, Dr. Tim’s and Seachem Seed. This may increase bacteria diversity and virtually eliminates the risk of bad bacteria through redundancy.

I do have some fresh saltwater on hand just in case.

I do test for nitrate (as well as all others when applicable) and 50% water change before adding friends.

Wait the time that makes you comfortable but the days of long cycle times are in the past.

But again, always do what makes you comfortable.

Now with corals, this is where I spend my test money, once per week.

For me, corals are way last, beyond uglies, and clearly into water chemistry stability. For me, except for a softy or two, maybe 6 months.

Good luck and enjoy.

 

[Garf]

Garf there's no argument conspiracy here.

The op asked about the time- based method and I responded based on our similar jobs. The plan will work as it always does. The fish food component makes up for dead bottle bac rarities; that's long enough for food- only cycling to lay down a base layer safely


As long as the op gets ready for disease it won't matter how they test. Certainly no harm to run a test kit if you want to.

Waiting until nitrite is zero is part and parcel of all old cycling approaches. If we're going to do a test based cycle, then do a test based cycle and be off the fence.

The confusion that will come if the ammonia test isn't viewed as correct will be the same confusion as factoring nitrite like millions of cyclers do.

If the old way has more appeal, better fish safety outcome, then use that way. I'm simply stating any way you cycle this setup will be fine: if you want your fish to live past eight months after then know Jay's fish disease forum highlights.

Any material the OP read regarding testless cycling already saw the disease preps listed up front as the need, just reinforcing that here for new readers.

I've edited my previous reply also as this hobby is supposed to be enjoyable, not stressful.

 

[Garf]

I hate paying $50 for two tests I use once.

I don't see how an ammonia alert badge could break the bank, at a minimum.

 

[Uncle99]

I don't see how an ammonia alert badge could break the bank, at a minimum.

It doesn’t and your right.

If it gives the reefer “piece of mind” then by all means.

We just don’t do it in our set up’s any longer.