False reading API ammonia?

[KochergenJ]

Yes I already know, API is trash and throw it away. Quick run down of my tank cycle using one and only and ammonia chloride. Currently on day 9, "add fish day", not going to happen. My ammonia has been consistently 2 ppm the entire cycle. I can dose, it will increase, next day back down to 2 ppm.

Nitrite has jumped drastically, .25 then 1 then up to 5. I did a small water change last night to bring it down to about 4.

I'm going to sit back and wait to see if both start dropping over the next few days, just seems weird that ammonia is always right at 2 ppm.

 

[Troylee]

Any nitrates yet?

 

[KochergenJ]

Yes it's testing nitrates as well, but have read countless threads stating not to test for it as you can't get an accurate reading with nitrites present.

 

[Troylee]

Yes it's testing nitrates as well, but have read countless threads stating not to test for it as you can't get an accurate reading with nitrites present.

Correct.. was just curious, it will give a false high if nitrite is present.. stop dosing ammonia and just let the tank settle down also.. don’t change any water till you get a true nitrate reading and only then if it’s high 30+ do a water change.

 

[GARRIGA]

API isn't trash. Just not precise. As for ammonia. I've found the strips are accurate and show zero ammonia. I validated they worked based on making my own reference material with ammonium chloride.

In general, the titration test are pretty close assuming user does as it's indicated and a stop watch along with magnetic stirrer helps improve those results. Test strips other than ammonia were hard for me to read and results differed from the titration. Obviously their phosphate kit isn't low enough for reefers wanting more precise but rest of what they have close enough. Home hobby test kits aren't that accurate and calcium doesn't have to be an exact 420 nor alkalinity in halves. 7-11 generally accepted. Nitrates around 20-25 acceptable. Don't need to read 3ppm as far as I'm concerned but if that level of precision sought. Hanna only one I'd consider and that still needs to be calibrated occasionally.

 

[brandon429]

have you ever read a testless cycling thread? talk about a headache remover. you're opting to use a testing method, which gives headaches.

when you want off this merry go round =

How to unstick any seemingly stuck cycle

non digital ammonia test kit readings (api, Red Sea, nyos, seachem badges) make you think you aren’t cycled when indeed you are if you owned a $200 expensive seneye meter, you’d never be doubting your cycle status. since .01% of the reefing population owns these, we need a way to help the...

www.reef2reef.com

that above is a testless cycling thread where 100% of all tanks for 3 years straight were ready by day ten, no matter what the cheap test kit says (that you already know is misread fraught)

how many days has your tank been running?

you can easily do a full or large water change, and you're done, you can see in the giant testless cycle thread above with two hundred work examples.

You do not have a cycle issue

you have an upcoming disease issue, by adding in unprepped fish. that chart showing you when to add fish does not consider or factor disease preps, and those are tantamount.

 

[KochergenJ]

have you ever read a testless cycling thread? talk about a headache remover. you're opting to use a testing method, which gives headaches.

when you want off this merry go round

Not going to lie, secretly was hoping you would chime in here. I spent a few hours searching the forum last night and kept seeing your responses throughout.

 

[brandon429]

post a pic of your tank let's see it for a custom rework of the cycle


and how many gallons is it, that's the only two factors we need to fix u right up using the new means.

 

[KochergenJ]

Assuming roughly 30-35 gallons in the tank, 40 lbs dry rock, 35 lbs ocean direct sand. Tank has been full for 10 days, 9 days since one and only introduced.

 

[KochergenJ]

Without the glare

 

[brandon429]

This is exactly how to get control over it without any more testing.

Take a pinch of fish food and grind it into powder. Dip out of the tank a small cup of tank water and mix that powder in really good then add that fish food powder water to the tank. Add no more ammonia at all. Add in two cupfuls of Dr Tims bacteria and wait five days then begin reefing. It's not that I think your cycle can't carry fish now, these steps were to cover worst case scenarios we never see here tied to the repeat ammonia additions

This fish food + five more days for a total of fifteen saves you from having to do a big water change. All these additions of ammonia makes api misread its not actually an ammonia buildup which is why testing in five days as proof isn't factored

It's ready now and in five days with that carbon and phosphate added it'll be dang sure ready and nothing api says ai any time is factored. Anything you add will live after this tuneup

If you can do a big water change then before starting its wise. Not for ammonia, but for the wastewater being created and reduced which is algae fertilizer.