Tank Transfer Method

[Humblefish]

Or that Methylene Blue stuff

Ich-X already contains malachite green (substitute for methylene blue):

Ingredients: water, formaldehyde (<5%), methanol (<2%), malachite green chloride (<0.1%)

And apparently Hikari also makes a product called "Quick Ich-X" which would be far more effective to use as a bath:

CONTAINS: water, formaldehyde (<22%), methanol (<7.5%), malachite green chloride (<0.2%)

 

[Turbo's Aquatics]

I thought Methylene Blue had very unique properties

 

[Turbo's Aquatics]

I was looking for a thread on R2R about it but can't find it (a specific one I recall reading)

Maybe it was CP I was thinking of

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/chloroquine-phosphate.192309/

But I thought I recalled a description of fish coming around quickly after being placed in an MB bath

 

[Humblefish]

I thought Methylene Blue had very unique properties

IME; it's a good healing agent best used to treat ammonia burn, cuts, injuries. It can be combined with formalin (but NOT acriflavine) to help heal the tiny "bite marks" inflicted by velvet or skin damage from brook.

 

[Humblefish]

Nitrofuracin Green Powder is one of the most powerful antibiotic meds there is and it also contains Methylene Blue: http://store.nationalfishpharm.com/Nitrofuracin-Green-59584.Item.html

Very useful for treating those red sores many butterflyfish get when coming from the wholesaler.

 

[twreefer]

TTM Update: On TTM Tank 4 and my Blue Hippo is looking so much better. Treated with ParaGuard daily on Tank 4, and we move to Tank 5 tomorrow where they will stay until my DT fallow ends. The spots he had now look like scars imo. They are charcoal gray, but appear more smooth and healing. The more I read, the more I feel like this may have been turbellaria (velvet is my runner-up choice, but I'm guessing at best). Most fish that died had no visible signs on skin, turned pale, and were doing a lot of flashing and rubbing. Here are updated pics, but the spots aren't white as they appear in the 2nd pic. On a good note, without all the fish in my DT, I have an amphipod explosion. When fish eventually come back, they are going to feast!

 

[Humblefish]

@twreefer Glad to hear! But if you suspect turbellarians or velvet was the culprit, I would observe very closely post-TTM as that is only designed to eradicate ich. I suppose you could get lucky and eradicate turbellarians/velvet using TTM if the timing was just right.

 

[twreefer]

@twreefer Glad to hear! But if you suspect turbellarians or velvet was the culprit, I would observe very closely post-TTM as that is only designed to eradicate ich. I suppose you could get lucky and eradicate turbellarians/velvet using TTM if the timing was just right.

I believe the Ich-X I had used at onset is supposed to kill worms, so thought that may have stopped the turbellarians. I plan to leave them in tank 5 at least 6 weeks, possibly longer for observation. This is my first experience with any of these diseases, so I could be way off base. All I know is my last two fish both act and look great (my Occ. clown never seemed to show any symptoms). Having lost 8 other fish and the effort required to remove from DT and do TTM, I want to take all the precautions to ensure I don't see this again.

I appreciate all the help you guys provide here!

 

[Humblefish]

Ich X contains formaldehyde, and that would treat turbellarians and also provide temporary relief for velvet.

 

[DannyB]

Would there be any issue using a different brand of salt for ttm than you use, the fish will live in, in your DT?

 

[4FordFamily]

Would there be any issue using a different brand of salt for ttm than you use, the fish will live in, in your DT?

Most likely not but if it were me I would try to keep things the same. Lots of variance in salt brands.

 

[Humblefish]

Would there be any issue using a different brand of salt for ttm than you use, the fish will live in, in your DT?

I typically use IO (cheap) when doing TTM, but reef grade salt in my DT. No different than buying a fish from the LFS, who probably uses a different salt than you do. Probably IO (cheap).

But the best thing to do is to use water stored from a recent display tank water change to implement TTM (thrifty). And the same.

 

[Jlobes]

I typically use IO (cheap) when doing TTM, but reef grade salt in my DT. No different than buying a fish from the LFS, who probably uses a different salt than you do. Probably IO (cheap).

But the best thing to do is to use water stored from a recent display tank water change to implement TTM (thrifty). And the same.

same here. I use IO for the QT and TTM, and RSCP for the DT and nano. no sense using the "good" stuff, just to toss it down the drain in a couple days. I mix all my water/tanks to 35ppt. and run them all at the same temp(within the +/-1 degree the heater/therm are off). but I use a digital therm to check WC for ttm, its accurate to 0.7degrees. also have an analog/old school glass one i use sometimes, but the digi is much easier to read.

 

[DannyB]

So the next 2 fish I am planning on getting are a mandarin and a Carpenter's Wrasse, not at the same time.

If I do TTM:
Is there anything special i should do for these 2 fish?
Should I treat prophylactically?
Anything special i should feed them, especially the mandarin?
Anything special i should know at all?
If i use buckets for ttm should i use a tank after the 12 days?
Should i just use tanks the entire time?
If I use 10g tanks, would they need to be full for the transfers, or just for the remainder of the QT process?

Sorry for all the questions.

 

[Humblefish]

The mandarin is going to be the problem, unless you buy one already trained to eat pellets or frozen. There used to be a frozen food called "Nutramar ova" that even most wild caught mandys would eat, but I haven't seen it available for a year or so now. Dumping pods into the QT will get expensive quick. Unless you have some chaeto w/pods from your DT you could put in there.

 

[Jlobes]

not sure if its the same or will even work, but what about ROD's fish eggs in place of the ova?

 

[Humblefish]

not sure if its the same or will even work, but what about ROD's fish eggs in place of the ova?

Worth a shot. My mated mandy pair survived 6 weeks in QT just by feeding Nutramar ova 3-4x daily. Made me into a believer.

 

[DannyB]

The mandarin is going to be the problem, unless you buy one already trained to eat pellets or frozen. There used to be a frozen food called "Nutramar ova" that even most wild caught mandys would eat, but I haven't seen it available for a year or so now. Dumping pods into the QT will get expensive quick. Unless you have some chaeto w/pods from your DT you could put in there.

It doesn't seem like the Nutramar Ova is coming back.

 

[Humblefish]

It doesn't seem like the Nutramar Ova is coming back.

I know. That stuff was like "fish crack".

 

[DannyB]

not sure if its the same or will even work, but what about ROD's fish eggs in place of the ova?

If you give the Rod's a try please let us know how it goes, as Rod's is readily available.