Triton method VS calcium reactor

Sm51498

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As I understand it, a calcium reactor is not incompatible with the triton method. it would obviate the need to dose a bunch of things though.

I can't speak to pros and cons of triton additives but a calcium reactor has high startup costs, no great way to control the amount of magnesium dosed and can lower your ph. pro is that it creates awesome stability, once dialed in it is super easy to run and doses exactly balanced calcium and alk that won't change your salinity. it also likely adds other trace elements needed for calcification .
 
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Well this Is the 2 methods I think I want to choose from. Dosing gets to the point where it is a pain, kalk makes a mess out of things so I wanted to try something else. LOL
 
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Yes I like the calcium reactor for the stability, and low maintenance, I know will need to dose mag but that's not a problem as I have several dosers if needed. Cost is coming with any method whether it is up front or in the long run. If I go calcium reactor I am looking at the DaStaCo as my front runner. I also thought of balling method
 

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I know its not listed as one of your option, but Kalkwasser dosing using a good quality kalk reactor and doser is a very clean method to dose Calcium and Alkalinity to your tank. I think it is the best method if you have a small to medium sized tank. I have myself been in this dilemma of Kalk vs 2 part vs calc reactor for a long time and finally decided to settle on Kalk through a dedicated reactor+doser.
Its very low maintenance, comparatively less expensive. And an awesome free byproduct is the boost in pH.
 

bif24701

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Well this Is the 2 methods I think I want to choose from. Dosing gets to the point where it is a pain, kalk makes a mess out of things so I wanted to try something else. LOL

My Kalk set up doesn't make any kind of mess.

Set up:
32 gallon Brute
50 ml/min BRS does pump
Controller

That's all in my system. Not switches!

I mix the Kalk, use a magnetic dosing tube holder to place and hold my pump intake tube 2" from bottom, place out put in high flow area of sump a few inches above the water. That's the whole thing.

I program my controller to turn pump on 4 minutes every half hour. This adds a consistent amount through out the day without causing pH spikes or dips. Also no risk of it getting stuck ON or OFF because of a faulty switch. You can add safe guards if pH gets too high or a warning switch if your sump starts running dry or high. However don't use switches to control the Kalk its self, just warnings, that's how you avoid the problems others have had useing Kalk. Finding the amount to program was easy, just keep and eye on it for the first few days and adjust the time as needed. Once I found my sweet spot after a few days I haven't had to do any adjusting. It works amazingly well. If you get to the point where you need more ALK/Cal, add vinegar to the container and that will increase it's potency.
 

bif24701

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Yes I like the calcium reactor for the stability, and low maintenance, I know will need to dose mag but that's not a problem as I have several dosers if needed. Cost is coming with any method whether it is up front or in the long run. If I go calcium reactor I am looking at the DaStaCo as my front runner. I also thought of balling method

You can add magnesium media to a CalRx to add the Mag. The best setups for CalRx seem to be using quality continuous peristaltic pumps like the Cole Palmer MasterFlex and the AquariumPlants.com Carbon doesr. You will need a controller with two pH probes. There are reactors that have a second chamber to increase the pH before it goes back into the sump. Or you could add Kalk to the ATO to increase pH.-

Of I where you I would start out with the Kalk and later add two part. Then you could always upgrade to the reactor after you have accumulated the whole CalRx set up equipment. The MasterFlex pump and Carbon doser are pricey but like any equipment in our hobby worth it to buy the right thing the first tine.
 

JonasRoman

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What are the pros and cons of each?
I must reply, because every time I hear the expression "triton method" I got adrenaline in my blood;_)..Triton has no own method. The use an ordinary Balling classic (but it takes several pages for them to tell what we all know since 1994 when Hans Werner Balling posted his receipt), AND the use an ordinary algue-filter in form of macroalge, a filter technique which has existed so long as the hobby have existed...
The only new is that they offer lab-analyses to a affordable price, thats it, nothing more. Then they do a profit on that by selling single elements with no information of concentration so you have to buy theirs, according to frequently testing by their ICP-OES-machine. Besides that, I think 10 of their elements(do not remember exact just now but around 10), has a level of detection above level of seawater, thus you can only say that you have no too much, and sometimes not that either. Third, their is very little evidence, or no evidence at all, concerning a lot of these elements importance. Some of them have no biological functions at all...but still exist as single adding elements. This is more business than scient. I use triton lab regularly but only for testing that type of elements I know(or think) is important and is not chasing numbers concerning the others. And yes, I use macroalgerefugium, long before Triton did, and cannot see any new in their concept. I use calcium reactor, that is according to my believe the trend today, that more and more use reactor because of the big sps-dominated aquarium increases, and for a big sps-tank Balling is very expensive and time-consuming (and place consuming)with all liquids. I think we are in a shift when Balling diminish as the SPS-era is increasing. My swedish friends have almost all of them sps-tanks and almost all of them have calciumreactor. 10 years ago it was the opposite in Europe.
 

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Well this Is the 2 methods I think I want to choose from. Dosing gets to the point where it is a pain, kalk makes a mess out of things so I wanted to try something else. LOL

OK, but Triton is basically a two part. It is just a brand. And then if you do the ICP testing you can control more element levels. :)
 

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Triton is more than a 2-part. It's adding more than just calcium and alkalinity.
A CaRx adds some minor elements above and beyond two-part, and I found it to be a really stable and easy way to keep up with my tank's Alk and Calc demands.
Only needing to check Alk since both Alk and Calc are added in balanced amounts.
Triton is similar in that it's very easy and everything is dosed in equal amounts, but it adds ALL the major and minor elements instead of relying on random water changes.

I used to run a CaRx and love it and was reluctant to give it up on the new system, but so far I've been very pleased with running the Triton Base Elements. Almost out of the original Base Elements and will be switching over the the more concentrated Core7 soon.
 

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I must reply, because every time I hear the expression "triton method" I got adrenaline in my blood;_)..Triton has no own method. The use an ordinary Balling classic (but it takes several pages for them to tell what we all know since 1994 when Hans Werner Balling posted his receipt), AND the use an ordinary algue-filter in form of macroalge, a filter technique which has existed so long as the hobby have existed...
The only new is that they offer lab-analyses to a affordable price, thats it, nothing more. Then they do a profit on that by selling single elements with no information of concentration so you have to buy theirs, according to frequently testing by their ICP-OES-machine. Besides that, I think 10 of their elements(do not remember exact just now but around 10), has a level of detection above level of seawater, thus you can only say that you have no too much, and sometimes not that either. Third, their is very little evidence, or no evidence at all, concerning a lot of these elements importance. Some of them have no biological functions at all...but still exist as single adding elements. This is more business than scient. I use triton lab regularly but only for testing that type of elements I know(or think) is important and is not chasing numbers concerning the others. And yes, I use macroalgerefugium, long before Triton did, and cannot see any new in their concept. I use calcium reactor, that is according to my believe the trend today, that more and more use reactor because of the big sps-dominated aquarium increases, and for a big sps-tank Balling is very expensive and time-consuming (and place consuming)with all liquids. I think we are in a shift when Balling diminish as the SPS-era is increasing. My swedish friends have almost all of them sps-tanks and almost all of them have calciumreactor. 10 years ago it was the opposite in Europe.

I'm not sure what your adrenalin gets pumping, but...
Triton openly explains pretty much everything you just said.
They openly say that their "method" is nothing new and is based on the balling method.
They openly say that they don't know how important many of those minor elements are.
They openly say the refugium is not new, BUT they do stress the importance of it being strictly an algae bed and the way they advise it to be set up (large and first in line) is new to many people.

They are just providing an easy way for us to replicated natural sea water without having to rely on random water changes, hoping you are replacing all those elements but having no clue as to how successful you are with it.

My tank is only 120g and I've found that running the Triton method is pretty cheap so far, especially with all the savings on salt. It's been super easy and all it requires is a 4-pump doser and 4 containers.
But as you start to get larger, Triton does become more expensive and a CaRx may start to make more sense financially.
 

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So, to answer the OPs original post.
Triton will be easier to dial in. Its as simple as checking your alk routinely and keeping it at 8.0
Out of all the people using Triton, I would say that maybe 10% actually end up having to buy the single elements. The base elements cover most users.
The biggest pro is the ease of use.
The biggest con is all of the product you'll end up dosing in the long run when your tank matures.
And a calcium reactor has the opposite.
Kind of a pain to dial in. Kind of a pain to keep alk stable (for beginners at least)
But the biggest pro for a CXReactor is the fact that you will probably only change media once a year. And co2 maybe twice a year. So its really good for all SPS systems.

However like mentioned.
You can run both the Triton base elements, and a calcium reactor. The idea here is that you'll be using both supplemental "systems" to keep your alk at 8.0. So the calcium reactor does 50% of the load and you'll dose Triton elements as the other 50%

It's what I do.
 

JonasRoman

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I'm not sure what your adrenalin gets pumping, but...
Triton openly explains pretty much everything you just said.
They openly say that their "method" is nothing new and is based on the balling method.
They openly say that they don't know how important many of those minor elements are.
They openly say the refugium is not new, BUT they do stress the importance of it being strictly an algae bed and the way they advise it to be set up (large and first in line) is new to many people.

They are just providing an easy way for us to replicated natural sea water without having to rely on random water changes, hoping you are replacing all those elements but having no clue as to how successful you are with it.

My tank is only 120g and I've found that running the Triton method is pretty cheap so far, especially with all the savings on salt. It's been super easy and all it requires is a 4-pump doser and 4 containers.
But as you start to get larger, Triton does become more expensive and a CaRx may start to make more sense financially.
I agree, but there are very many nice words of only explanation a new brand of the familiar receipt Balling. Besides that, the trace-elements, it is a so called Balling plus(it was invented 1996 of Balling et al, from some sceleton studies), nothing secreet about that. This is business. Yes, they do not lie, but there are different way to tell something.
But, i agree, that their contribution with affordable ICP-OES analysis if very nice and welcome. You have to bare in mind one more thing: A professional test costs 10 times more than a triton test. Only to test ONE element costs with a professional lab around 30 Euro...so we have to be aware of that the accuracy and precision is no spot on, but maybe enough. I have done some comparing investigations: Sending two tests to triton on the same water, and sent to two different labs. My conclusion is that Triton do quite well, but in some elements their could be some interference. Silicon and Iodine are two elements which could be strange results, so always interpret a cheap ICP-OES analysis with care.
 

JonasRoman

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Triton is more than a 2-part. It's adding more than just calcium and alkalinity.
A CaRx adds some minor elements above and beyond two-part, and I found it to be a really stable and easy way to keep up with my tank's Alk and Calc demands.
Only needing to check Alk since both Alk and Calc are added in balanced amounts.
Triton is similar in that it's very easy and everything is dosed in equal amounts, but it adds ALL the major and minor elements instead of relying on random water changes.

I used to run a CaRx and love it and was reluctant to give it up on the new system, but so far I've been very pleased with running the Triton Base Elements. Almost out of the original Base Elements and will be switching over the the more concentrated Core7 soon.
Triton is a Balling plus, thus, still a Balling with a new brand. it is totally equal to buy Fauna Marine, tropic marine etc, so long as you stick to the Balling plus. Plus means that to the classic receipt which only replenished Ca and alk in balanced manner, we add trace-elements (mostly in canister 3 with the Na-cl.free salt), and Magnesium. I could accept everything from triton, except the name "Method"..it is not easy for beginners to do the distinction there. BUT, nevertheless, of course they stick on the correct receipt, so if you follow their dosings, everything will be fine.
 
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There are so many ways to keep a reef. I think I will just go calcium reactor on this tank, and see how it works out. I am planning an auto water exchange daily, and should be able to keep up with elements needed. I can dose mag and the reactor will keep alk and cal in order. I understand the balling, 2 part, and triton work in essence the same. After general setup of a cal RX it is just a matter of tuning it from time to time, and the maintenance with a good setup is minimal..
 

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Triton is more than a 2-part. It's adding more than just calcium and alkalinity.
.

So is a good two part. They add many elements. Not just calcium and alkalinity.

That said, some tanks may need more of some specific elements (and maybe less of others) and I certainly recognize that Triton testing can be helpful in knowing what elements might be on the low side. I've done it myself to see what my tank might be low or high in.
 

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So is a good two part. They add many elements. Not just calcium and alkalinity.

In what quantities though?
BRS two-part is pretty much the standard in the hobby. And your own recipes (I use your alk recipe 2 in my nano).
So what else is in these besides Alk and Calc and in what quantities?
How do they compare to the Triton elements which are a 4 part and eliminate the need for replenishing elements with water changes?
 

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In what quantities though?
BRS two-part is pretty much the standard in the hobby. And your own recipes (I use your alk recipe 2 in my nano).
So what else is in these besides Alk and Calc and in what quantities?
How do they compare to the Triton elements which are a 4 part and eliminate the need for replenishing elements with water changes?

ESV B-ionic adds (so they claim) all biologically active elements such that when the calcium and alkalinity are used up, there is no net change to any of these elements. So that includes magnesium, potassium, vanadium, iron, etc.

That is, as I understand it, exactly what Balling claims to accomplish.

BRS is my recipe adapted to the bulk density of the materials they sell. It is a DIY that maintains some of these (e.g., magnesium), but not all of them. It is designed to be a less expensive alternative, and if you want to add trace elements, then that would be a separate addition that you'd do, either based on testing (like Triton does) or just trial and error.
 

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Nice discussion.
 

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