0-10V Control of Prop Pumps for Alternating Gyre

Skydvr

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Those capacitors are probably taking a while to charge up. A few smaller ones will charge up faster than one large one.

What happens if you let it sit at a given duty cycle for a bit?
Is the voltage climbing? Is it steady?

What type of capacitors are you using?
 
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rushbattle

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Those capacitors are probably taking a while to charge up. A few smaller ones will charge up faster than one large one.

What happens if you let it sit at a given duty cycle for a bit?
Is the voltage climbing? Is it steady?

What type of capacitors are you using?
It takes a few seconds to get up to steady DC voltage. The 330 and 4700uF caps are 50v low esr electrolytics.

Thanks for all of the help!
 
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rushbattle

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Definately need some smaller capacitors in there, no trashcans.
Lol, the 4700uF is indeed pretty big.

Everything is working as expected except for the voltage output. I don’t know enough to troubleshoot so I just run the duty cycle from 80% (below 1v is off on motor controller) to 100% (~7.8VDC output). I’m guessing the motor controller is using some current, but this still seems odd to me like I’ve done something wrong.
 
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rushbattle

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@Ranjib Got this running with opposing wave pumps via @theatrus base boards DC control outputs. Very cool! Now I just need to wait patiently for the wavemaker module so I can run them from 0 to 15% and back in alternating fashion. These pumps make more flow than I was anticipating!
 

Ranjib

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@Ranjib Got this running with opposing wave pumps via @theatrus base boards DC control outputs. Very cool! Now I just need to wait patiently for the wavemaker module so I can run them from 0 to 15% and back in alternating fashion. These pumps make more flow than I was anticipating!
I am keeping a watch on this. Currently tied up with the hardware layer abstraction work, but this is definitely in my mid
 

Ranjib

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The Lighting module is working fine for now. Thanks for all of your hard work :)
Nice. I think lights should work for most of us. Depending upon the type of light, we may need either normal tranistor, or mosfets or meanwell drivers.. and we may have to play with pwm frequency.. but at then it should work out. I expect us to go through a similar learning curve with power heads as well. Initially there will be hiccups, but once couple of us got it running, it will be relatively simpler for rest of us.
 
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rushbattle

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Nice. I think lights should work for most of us. Depending upon the type of light, we may need either normal tranistor, or mosfets or meanwell drivers.. and we may have to play with pwm frequency.. but at then it should work out. I expect us to go through a similar learning curve with power heads as well. Initially there will be hiccups, but once couple of us got it running, it will be relatively simpler for rest of us.

The pumps I am using are just 0-10VDC control signal to the motor controller, so the 10V PWM with some smoothing is all that’s needed. I discovered from this experiment that a FET on the pwm output helps drive the I out of the motor controller, without one it didn’t make enough current I think. Well, that and some more finely controllable pwm output code in reef-pi :)

If I need more 0-10V ports than I have from a Blueacro solution, I’m going to use FETs instead of a filter. Should be pretty easy to put together on a perman proto hat.

This may be of some help for looking at smoothing out your PWM with a Low-pass RC filter.
Plug in what values you have and look at the response curves.

http://sim.okawa-denshi.jp/en/CRlowkeisan.htm

The FET ended up working better, the current drive was needed. Thanks for the link!
 

chromstyler

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The pumps I am using are just 0-10VDC control signal to the motor controller, so the 10V PWM with some smoothing is all that’s needed. I discovered from this experiment that a FET on the pwm output helps drive the I out of the motor controller, without one it didn’t make enough current I think. Well, that and some more finely controllable pwm output code in reef-pi :)

If I need more 0-10V ports than I have from a Blueacro solution, I’m going to use FETs instead of a filter. Should be pretty easy to put together on a perman proto hat.



The FET ended up working better, the current drive was needed. Thanks for the link!

Can you send me you final config ?
i want to controll 2x wavemaker Jebao CP40 + 1x returnpump Jebao DCP-8000
 
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rushbattle

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Can you send me you final config ?
i want to controll 2x wavemaker Jebao CP40 + 1x returnpump Jebao DCP-8000
Hydroswaveengine.com

I have 370 gallon and 270 gallon tanks now, so I had to go with something that can control lots of pumps.

In my 66 gallon the reef-pi Pico board from @theatrus gave me two channels of 0-10vdc which I used to control 4 pumps, two on each side of the tank seeing the same signal voltage.
 

chromstyler

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ok but this will need to have the original controller still in place...
my wish is it to remove all controllers and have only a Display an the Reef-Pi installed...
so im chosing the 3Pin jebao wavemaker and return pumps so i can wire up the [GND] and [+24V] directly with my 24v Power Supply and only use the third cable to 0-10V controll it....
maybe i will try to integrate a reverse mode, for the wavemakers where i switch only the polarity of GND and +24V
 

LC8Sumi

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Is this sorted already?
It's very easy to get a 0-10V DC output either with a PI or Arduino (easier). You take the 0-5V PWM, a capacitor and a resistor makes 0-5V DC out of that, and you 2x it with an opamp. Pretty much the same with the pi, you have to 3x the filtered 0-3v3 pwm signal with the opamp.

This time I did it with a DAC:
 

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