It has been pretty awesome!
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Good morning everyone! I don't think I will be able to be online much today as I have jury duty and the judge may frown on me playing with phone. I hope everyone has an amazing day!
I am far from an expert but I have asked some of the same questions as you do I will share what I was told. First you do need to take into account the water in the sump so if you only fill it half full that would be around 10 gallons. You want to mix your salt accordingly and then test it to check salinity. If salinity is too high just add RODI water, if it's too low then add saltwater and I think add a little more salt then mix and retest and repeat until you get it where it needs to be. For mine I filled up the tank completely and filled the sump half way then turned the pump on. I wanted my sump to run at about half full to leave room for any back siphoning in case of power loss so after I turned the pump on I added just a little more water. I also have a small hole drilled in the outflow pipe behind the split to break suction to stop back flow and my sump is a 55 gallon. I hope all that makes sense as I'm typing it before I have finished my first cup of coffee.Sorry for all the newbie questions, you guys are great. Following @tbrown suggestion on my filling for the first time. This is a few part question and may take a few minutes to understand fully, it took me 1.5 hours to type it out and get an understandable flow LOL, this is more guided towards @tbrown but the group is welcome to add tips. I'm working and insomnia is strong lately.
QUESTION 1: CONFIRMATION OF MATH / DOSING - I have a 60 gallon tank (without sump) based on dimensions.
60 gallons to liters = 227 Liters
Salt being used: Red Sea Coral Pro Salt
FOR SPS/LPS Corals @ salinity of 1.023 (33.0ppt) = 36.0grams/liter OR (1.6lb/5 US gal)
Math time: depending which dosing option that I use.
Grams: 227.0L times 36.0G = 8172.0 TOTAL GRAMS OF SALT INTO TANK
Pounds: 60/5 = 12*1.6 = 19.2 POUNDS OF SALT INTO TANK
QUESTION #2 Do I need to take account for the sump volume, although i have a 20G sump, I only plan on having around 9 inches of water height to meet my skimmer requirements? @tbrown mentioned that he gets the water to a point where it's not quite overflowing to the sump, mixes the water until clear, adds the sand and rocks, then tops off (without the return pump running) until the sump is at the "full off" level that he wants, then he kick on the return pump and checks his running level and adjust his ATO point.
SO, with that being said. Does that mean once my water is clear after mixing the salt but not longer than 4 hours, I then add RODI ONLY into the main display causing activation of the OFB/siphon into the sump. I assume I continue until I reach the level (9 inches) that i want when all pumps are off (power loss).
QUESTION #3 - Brings us on the topic now of flooding. Is the flow of events correct?
1) Return Pump failure: Water will begin to backflow back into the sump in addition water will continue to poor into the overflow box until the water level is just below the slits on the HOB OFB. Then flooding is dependent how much water is in the sump? (i plan to drill a small hole at the end of my return line for a siphon break and i do have a check valve in place) is all of this correct?
2) Lost siphon at HOB: Water will continue to pump from the sump into the main tank until sump is empty, once the sump is empty a loud grinding noise will be heard. I assume MAIN TANK FLOODING is dependent on sump volume? so if i have 9 inches of water in the sump, then during a siphon break 9 inches of extra water will go back into the main tank? if I have the ability to add 9 inches of water then i wont flood during a lost siphon event? is this correct?
I think I spent enough time trying to get a few of my questions out before I make my water and salt and get this thing goingI think these really are my biggest questions up to this point that I need absolute confirmation on before I pull the trigger. Online videos are helpful but I have been gathering so much information my brain is feeling overwhelmed and would like to stick with you folks as those hard hitting real time questions.
Hopefully you guys can answer every one of my points. As always, be safe and chat soon!
Remi
Active Member
Amanda explained it well. Both DT and sump should be saltwater. When the return pump fails only the overflow water will go to the sump (for me few gallons). Sand and rock will take place in the DT so maybe 70 gallons of water should be largely enough. For leakage I don't know. I test the plumbing with few liters before filling all.
Do you guys think moving where my power heads are would make the fish chose to hang out more at the front of the tank vs the back of the tank? Right now they come out behind the rocks and eat and hang out there and of course I would much rather them be at the front were we can see them better.
kevgib67
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Ha, Joel is In Idaho and I’m in Ohio, almost as far from me as you.
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Good morning all!
tbrown
Nominated Cronie Intern - Might be failing?
Question 1: I cannot confirm your math because I use a different salt, but it looks right. I use two level scoops of instant ocean for 4 gallons of water.
My suggestion: put less salt than you need and adjust salinity up - it's easier than diluting back down later.
Question 2: Only do the math for the water that is going in the tank, not the sump - so probably close to 55 gallons (tank "gallons" is usually based on outside dimensions of the tank).
When you top off to fill th sump, mix salt water in buckets and add those slowly to get your overflow going and your sump filling. Once your sump is full, you should be good. 9" is what you mentioned BUT I'm thinking that's your running level for the skimmer, correct? My sump runs at 8" with the return pump on and close to 14" with the pump off. Find your "comfortable" level.
On my 125, I let it run with just the salt water mixing in the tank for a few days. With movement from powerheads the water won't stagnate.
Question 3:
1 - Yes, this is why I "flood the sump" prior to turning the return pump on. I get my sump to the "Power Outage" level because that is the highest level I'm comfortable pushing the sump to.
2 - Loss of siphon in the overflow typically won't be complete, but yes, if you lose siphon the return pump will continue to pump unless you add a safety feature. There are auto shut off sensors for low levels that you can use but most of us don't. The main tank can/will overflow slightly depending on how much water is in the sump and the typical running level in your display tank. Mine run about an inch to an inch and a half below the top and my sump will rise the water level about 2 - 3 inches without the overflow.
You'll most likely end up with water on the floor.
As far as noise - first will be the surging and air bubbles (which is fairly noticable), then, shortly thereafter will be the "grinding" noise of a pump running dry.
Your sump won't ever drain completely though, since the baffles will usually keep 4"-5" in the skimmer chamber and filter socks chamber depending on baffle height.
My suggestion: put less salt than you need and adjust salinity up - it's easier than diluting back down later.
Question 2: Only do the math for the water that is going in the tank, not the sump - so probably close to 55 gallons (tank "gallons" is usually based on outside dimensions of the tank).
When you top off to fill th sump, mix salt water in buckets and add those slowly to get your overflow going and your sump filling. Once your sump is full, you should be good. 9" is what you mentioned BUT I'm thinking that's your running level for the skimmer, correct? My sump runs at 8" with the return pump on and close to 14" with the pump off. Find your "comfortable" level.
On my 125, I let it run with just the salt water mixing in the tank for a few days. With movement from powerheads the water won't stagnate.
Question 3:
1 - Yes, this is why I "flood the sump" prior to turning the return pump on. I get my sump to the "Power Outage" level because that is the highest level I'm comfortable pushing the sump to.
2 - Loss of siphon in the overflow typically won't be complete, but yes, if you lose siphon the return pump will continue to pump unless you add a safety feature. There are auto shut off sensors for low levels that you can use but most of us don't. The main tank can/will overflow slightly depending on how much water is in the sump and the typical running level in your display tank. Mine run about an inch to an inch and a half below the top and my sump will rise the water level about 2 - 3 inches without the overflow.
You'll most likely end up with water on the floor.
As far as noise - first will be the surging and air bubbles (which is fairly noticable), then, shortly thereafter will be the "grinding" noise of a pump running dry.
Your sump won't ever drain completely though, since the baffles will usually keep 4"-5" in the skimmer chamber and filter socks chamber depending on baffle height.
Kipp's Corals
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You’re awesome!!!
tbrown
Nominated Cronie Intern - Might be failing?
Like I said, this isn't the only way, it's just the way I like to do it because it's easier.
OP
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00W
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Get good flow/circulation in tank first and foremost. No headaches.
Do that for health of the tank the fish will figure it out.
OP
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ESABOE
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OP
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00W
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This is the coolest group of people!
I feel like we all live right around the corner from each other!
ESABOE
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Whelp, it had to happen. I’m feeling a bit salty this morning- not much sleep and it’s chemo day.
Sooooo, i just replied to a “Brandon” post and clearly have released the kraken.
Why, why, did I do it - Ugh
Good thing is I responded once and will never do so again.
Sooooo, i just replied to a “Brandon” post and clearly have released the kraken.
Why, why, did I do it - Ugh
Good thing is I responded once and will never do so again.
Some of us use the block feature for the Brandon....carry on.
kevgib67
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