125 - Took Forever But Here It is!

[tbrown]

-3.04 scratched the glass, -1.90 was too high, adjusted a bunch of times and now we're at -2.90 and getting good "squish" and it seems to be sticking. The front of the boat is lifting some but I'm not using anything except the glass right now.

Should I adjust the Z-axis offset a little more or should I call it good and go with a glue stick? :thinking-face: I'm definitely thinking stop messing with it and glue stick it!

If this one makes it through the entire print I'll do the temperature tower.

 

[Lowell Lemon]

-3.04 scratched the glass, -1.90 was too high, adjusted a bunch of times and now we're at -2.90 and getting good "squish" and it seems to be sticking. The front of the boat is lifting some but I'm not using anything except the glass right now.

Should I adjust the Z-axis offset a little more or should I call it good and go with a glue stick? :thinking-face: I'm definitely thinking stop messing with it and glue stick it!

If this one makes it through the entire print I'll do the temperature tower.

Is there a way to level the print head to the table? This is why you have to surface a CNC router table for flatness after setting the router spindle square relative to the Z axis.

 

[tbrown]

What temperature do you have it set in the slicer, also there is a first layer temp and after first layer temp.

I'm not sure if you can do a temp calibration on that unit, I use Klipper and have different features.

If you don't scratch or gouge your bed, you ain't a printer!!! I've done it a few times too. EVERYONE does it in the beginning.

So I can't find that in the version of Cura I'm using. It says there's a new version but my laptop is from 2012 so the new version doesn't work with my computer.

The temperature I can find says 210.

 

[tbrown]

Is there a way to level the print head to the table? This is why you have to surface a CNC router table for flatness after setting the router spindle square relative to the Z axis.

Mine has an auto-leveler. I can only adjust the Z-axis offset. It runs through the auto-leveling and makes adjustments. It looks like it's running correctly now, I just had my offset set off.

 

[stoney7713]

Mine has an auto-leveler. I can only adjust the Z-axis offset. It runs through the auto-leveling and makes adjustments. It looks like it's running correctly now, I just had my offset set off.

If your using the piece of paper for the offset, you want a bit of drag on it. I also preheat the bed and nozzle.

But some feeler gauges work best, I don't have a .1 but use a .102, it's still just a "close enough" and you may have to dial that in too. I usually bump it once or twice .005 closer.

 

[stoney7713]

So I can't find that in the version of Cura I'm using. It says there's a new version but my laptop is from 2012 so the new version doesn't work with my computer.

The temperature I can find says 210.

In cura click on the 3 lines, select advance or expert. It should open that option.

 

[Projects with Sam]

If your using the piece of paper for the offset, you want a bit of drag on it. I also preheat the bed and nozzle.

But some feeler gauges work best, I don't have a .1 but use a .102, it's still just a "close enough" and you may have to dial that in too. I usually bump it once or twice .005 closer.

Preheating is key. Especially when you go to higher temp materials.

 

[stoney7713]

Ignore my temps, that's for PETG at 400mms

Also maybe try PrusaSlicer, I get cleaner prints with it but definitely slower prints. I'm still dialing in Cura to get the same quality.

 

[tbrown]

If your using the piece of paper for the offset, you want a bit of drag on it. I also preheat the bed and nozzle.

But some feeler gauges work best, I don't have a .1 but use a .102, it's still just a "close enough" and you may have to dial that in too. I usually bump it once or twice .005 closer.

I was using a piece of paper.

 

[tbrown]

Preheating is key. Especially when you go to higher temp materials.

I've been preheating. I preheat to 50 and 200, then the Benchy heats to 60.

 

[tbrown]

 

[stoney7713]

Preheating is key. Especially when you go to higher temp materials.

I think they say just preheat the bed when setting the Z, but it doesn't make sense to me know the thermal expansion of metals. So I preheat both for setting the Z.

 

[tbrown]

You can definitely see the front lifted.

 

[stoney7713]

You can definitely see the front lifted.

Yes, could definitely be bed temps.

 

[Projects with Sam]

It looks like the squish on the right is less then the left

 

[tbrown]

It looks like the squish on the right is less then the left

Would that be why the right is lifting potentially?

 

[stoney7713]

PLA softens at the higher bed temps and will curl off the bed. I would see if you could lower that before adding adhesive to the bed. Because if it is bed temps, nothing will make it stick. It will continue to curl.

 

[stoney7713]

Would that be why the right is lifting potentially?

Well how does that skirt come off? Is it sticking well?

I agree it looks like you could use a little more squish but if that skirt sticks you're in the ballpark.

 

[tbrown]

On previous prints that failed, the boat was the only thing not stuck although it did seem like the ring around the outside was stuck more on the left than the right. I'll have to see how to manually adjust the right side of the bed maybe.

I think I need a different program maybe. Not seeing where I can adjust the heat settings.

 

[stoney7713]

On previous prints that failed, the boat was the only thing not stuck although it did seem like the ring around the outside was stuck more on the left than the right. I'll have to see how to manually adjust the right side of the bed maybe.

I think I need a different program maybe. Not seeing where I can adjust the heat settings.

Click on advance top right and see if it's there. Definitely an older version I have not used.