2 Fish Wipeouts

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Formalin followed by CP or Metro

Everything is stickied in the top of this forum

CP is copper right?
 

vetteguy53081

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Question would be . . . . .
Did you acclimate clowns from QT to main display?
Aggression is showing but although it causes stress, there is more to this. You stated you treated for brook. What did you use and how did you treat? If I read right and copper, , , , copper is for protoan parasites and brrok as indicated by tamberav would have been:
A formalin solution is mixed within a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration then performing treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin base at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue. 45 min bath with quick cure or 90 mins with ruby rally pro.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
With the advanced stage of this- I recommend immediate quarantine of all inhabitants and leaving display without fish for 4-6 weeks.

Then for flukes (if present) :
You can do prazi as a precaution assuming its flukes. To be safe , dose at 80% of recommended and allow it to do its thing for 8 days, do a water change and do one more 8 day dose interval
Use airstone with prazi as it does reduce both oxygen and appetite
 
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Question would be . . . . .
Did you acclimate clowns from QT to main display?
Aggression is showing but although it causes stress, there is more to this. You stated you treated for brook. What did you use and how did you treat? If I read right and copper, , , , copper is for protoan parasites and brrok as indicated by tamberav would have been:
A formalin solution is mixed within a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration then performing treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin base at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue. 45 min bath with quick cure or 90 mins with ruby rally pro.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
With the advanced stage of this- I recommend immediate quarantine of all inhabitants and leaving display without fish for 4-6 weeks.

Then for flukes (if present) :
You can do prazi as a precaution assuming its flukes. To be safe , dose at 80% of recommended and allow it to do its thing for 8 days, do a water change and do one more 8 day dose interval
Use airstone with prazi as it does reduce both oxygen and appetite
We were told to do a copper treatment on here when we last posted about this. Of course now it’s a bit late everything is dead we have 0 fish to treat and a potentially infested tank. The question is what do we do now? Can we treat the tank? Also why did our copper power seem to help and the clown we had get better and also stay fine 4 weeks outside of water containing copper and then Immediately die in the old tank? We did drip for 40 mins with a salinity difference of 0.001 and the same salt as in the quarantine
 

vetteguy53081

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We were told to do a copper treatment on here when we last posted about this. Of course now it’s a bit late everything is dead we have 0 fish to treat and a potentially infested tank. The question is what do we do now? Can we treat the tank? Also why did our copper power seem to help and the clown we had get better and also stay fine 4 weeks outside of water containing copper and then Immediately die in the old tank? We did drip for 40 mins with a salinity difference of 0.001 and the same salt as in the quarantine
On the copper, , , what product did you use, how long and did you test copper level and how did you test it?
The problem often with forums is everyone wants to help but some throw out or counter advice and it does not end well.
 
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On the copper, , , what product did you use, how long and did you test copper level and how did you test it?
The problem often with forums is everyone wants to help but some throw out or counter advice and it does not end well.
We used a very similar product to copper power here in the uk. We treated for 4 weeks and used a high range Hannah checker to test the copper we did no water changes during this time as the ammonia badge didn’t rise in that time
 

vetteguy53081

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We used a very similar product to copper power here in the uk. We treated for 4 weeks and used a high range Hannah checker to test the copper we did no water changes during this time as the ammonia badge didn’t rise in that time
I wonder if you had any ammonia spikes as the bade is as reliable as an API kit and I will never trust a $7 badge to sustain $100, 300, 500 in livestock.
This sitting in water with copper questions its accuracy .
 
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I wonder if you had any ammonia spikes as the bade is as reliable as an API kit and I will never trust a $7 badge to sustain $100, 300, 500 in livestock.
This sitting in water with copper questions its accuracy .
In the QT we only use the badge it did change towards the end and we did a 100% water change and put the clown on flukes. As I say he was fine for 4 weeks in that water then died 24 hours of being in the display. Surly the display is more the issue here and not the method of treatment. When he was moved other than looking skinny both fish were fine no heavy breathing swimming around and eating
 

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They may have gotten better because I am fairly certain copper suppresses brook/symptoms but doesn't cure it.

I doubt a fish died in a day because it was removed from copper. Did they both die? Do you have coral and inverts alive in the tank? Inverts would be effected more easily then any fish if there was something so off it could kill a fish in 24 hours.

Why were the fish skinny? You said they were eating good? Were they always skinny? Could be poor body condition + stress of the move lead to it's demise.

I am not sure if you knew we had stickies... honestly I feel like most people don't? They are stickied because they contain the correct information... the forum has probably 100's/1000's?? of users... so well good intentioned... sometimes the information given is wrong.

All that being said, I have no idea if your fish even had brook.. the photos are blurry/glare.
 

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Looks like copper was suggested because velvet was the likely diagnosis given the evidence available at the time, not brook or flukes.

 

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They were dripped in like normal and were fine to start
Some weirdness in the ISP results? Vanadium and Barium are very high? I doubt that would cause acute fish loss, but you might want to try and track down the cause for that. Are you adding any supplements to the tank?


Jay
 
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Some weirdness in the ISP results? Vanadium and Barium are very high? I doubt that would cause acute fish loss, but you might want to try and track down the cause for that. Are you adding any supplements to the tank?


Jay
I was yes but stopped I would imagine they are not high anymore
 
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They may have gotten better because I am fairly certain copper suppresses brook/symptoms but doesn't cure it.

I doubt a fish died in a day because it was removed from copper. Did they both die? Do you have coral and inverts alive in the tank? Inverts would be effected more easily then any fish if there was something so off it could kill a fish in 24 hours.

Why were the fish skinny? You said they were eating good? Were they always skinny? Could be poor body condition + stress of the move lead to it's demise.

I am not sure if you knew we had stickies... honestly I feel like most people don't? They are stickied because they contain the correct information... the forum has probably 100's/1000's?? of users... so well good intentioned... sometimes the information given is wrong.

All that being said, I have no idea if your fish even had brook.. the photos are blurry/glare.
The fish was out of copper 4 weeks before added to the display. The fish was skinny because when I’ll and in copper it wasn’t eating I thought it was going to starve to death but finally started eating on the last week of the copper and 4 weeks in fluke treatment. The other new clown that was bought to pair died after 72 hours and was breathing fast after 24-48 hours.
 
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Looks like copper was suggested because velvet was the likely diagnosis given the evidence available at the time, not brook or flukes.

Yes that’s correct however due to the speed I thought it could have been brooks. Either way velvet or brooks the tank was left empty for 8 weeks and fish seemed to healthy before going back.
 
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Anyone’s opinion on there being no disease and the rock being poisoned? It’s AquaRoche which is well known along with some dead and live from from my LFS? Another fish shop has suggested this could be the issue but how do I work it out? When my fish were dying I could not find any visible signs of disease other than behaviour. Could they be getting poisoned but CUC and corals not being effected?
 

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Anyone’s opinion on there being no disease and the rock being poisoned? It’s AquaRoche which is well known along with some dead and live from from my LFS? Another fish shop has suggested this could be the issue but how do I work it out? When my fish were dying I could not find any visible signs of disease other than behaviour. Could they be getting poisoned but CUC and corals not being effected?

No, if the corals and CUC are fine then unlikely they are being poisoned IMO. Corals are more sensitive then fish.

I am assuming you have powerheads and flow so oxygen should be alright.

If the fish were in poor condition (you said they did not eat for awhile, anorexia can cause organ damage), maybe the added stress of the move pushed them over.

I think it was just a coincidence they died in the display.
 
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No, if the corals and CUC are fine then they are not being poisoned IMO. Corals are more sensitive then fish.

I am assuming you have powerheads and flow so oxygen should be alright.

If the fish were in poor condition (you said they did not eat for awhile, anorexia can cause organ damage), maybe the added stress of the move pushed them over.

I think it was just a coincidence they died in the display.
Okay thanks for your input. Yes there is an mp40 along with a bank sump return and main sump return and skimmer so oxygen shouldn’t have been a problem. 1 fish didn’t eat for a month the other one was new after the copper treatment from my LFS and always eating fine. It was in quarantine with the other one for about 4 weeks before they both got added to the display
 

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Okay thanks for your input. Yes there is an mp40 along with a bank sump return and main sump return and skimmer so oxygen shouldn’t have been a problem. 1 fish didn’t eat for a month the other one was new after the copper treatment from my LFS and always eating fine. It was in quarantine with the other one for about 4 weeks before they both got added to the display

Gas exchange is more than just circulation - you need to break the air/water interface. The skimmer will do that pretty well, but air bubbles in the tank itself are better.

Jay
 
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Gas exchange is more than just circulation - you need to break the air/water interface. The skimmer will do that pretty well, but air bubbles in the tank itself are better.

Jay
the return pumps are pointing at the surface of the water breaking the surface
 

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