How do I dose the phyto, do I just run it in like a pump w/ a drip mabye on a timer for night time or do I need to get a dosing pump?What type of NPS?
Sun corals and stuff just need to be fed pellets and meaty foods like mysis. Don’t bother with a drip for those.
Many gorgs are photosynthetic so I would suggest those. The problem with the NPS ones isn’t just food but the fact they can’t easily protect themselves from algae and the reef lighting for soft corals and a phyto drip will certainly let algae potentially grow on them.
I would not attempt carnation corals in a 20g even with a 24/7 drip without an auto water changer to constantly also remove water for new clean water. Especially with light over it.
What calcium tests are cheap, I don’t want to micromanage my tank and I’d rather just go by looking at the life in the tank but if Its 100% NEEDED I could get a cheap one
Ok, I will give it a read later, I’m probably gonna stick to dendro and NPS sessile invertebrates like sponge and feather duster for nowThe biggest challenge with NPS is they need CONSTANT food and very good water quality. Obviously the constant food messes up the water quality. A fuge would not keep up.
Successful nps tanks (more then just sun corals) often employ a fridge with dosers and several foods, not just phyto.
This is an example of a very successful NPS tank and you can see it employed a refrigerator dosing 4 different foods as well as a huge filtration system.
It also talks about how NPS need as much flow as SPS corals.
They have very specific car requirements and it all doesn’t revolve around just food.
This is why I ask what type of NPS. You didn’t say? Some are more forgiving then others. I am sure you don’t want to waste money.
Care Requirements for Non-photosynthetic (NPS) Corals | Reef Builders | The Reef and Saltwater Aquarium BlogNon photosynthetic corals (NPS) are some of the most unique corals you will ever see. They have the most odd shapes, textures, and cryptic behaviors. Their other name, azooxanthelle…reefbuilders.com
Oh so I should monitor and not just shoot for numbers, becsuse what I thought is I have to have it exact with in a really small margin if I’m doing that kind of testingI'd argue monitoring and micromanaging are two completely seperate things. COnstanlty changing things around and adding and removing things I'd see as micromanaging and will lead to failure. Testing and maintaining alkalinity, calcium and magnesium weekly with a good test kit you find easy to use (which may not translate to cheapest) I'd say is best way for you to learn how the life in your tank is supposed to look when it's happy as well as learn how the life in your tank is messing with said parameters. Routine testing long term is essential because corals can adapt to less than ideal conditions and still "look" ok but in reality be stressed.
To be honest, while I'm not in line with some of the above suggestions some of your comments lead me to be inclined to agree with the observation this is just going to be another wall banger thread.