230v or 115v chillers and outdoor plugs

[AaronFReef]

I’m mid remodel on my old California ranch home for an upcoming 240g tank and am planning many steps ahead right now for a possible chiller. The room the tank is in is often hot (mid 80s in the room but rarely humid) and I am thinking now is the time to wire up for a possibility of a chiller on the backside of the wall.

Originally there was going to be a fish room built into the area outside the wall the fish tank is on but budget ran out for that so now there’s two pre-run 240V circuits to that wall in the attic with NM 12-3. They’re just coiled up and ready to flick on. I am going to build a sort of shed against that wall on the existing slab sitting right behind the tank to use as a mixing station and could stick a chiller in that shed as well to keep the heat out of the house. This would get built largely waterproof with a hinged, shingled roof over it but not as waterproof as an interior space since it will be hinged to allow top access to the mixing containers.

First question is what sort of voltage do I want for a tank this size given the option? I figured since I had a dedicated 230V circuit (actually two) I should go with that as I believe I have heard that higher voltage helps reduce power usage for high draw devices like this but I can’t find many 230V chillers for this range of volume.

Second question is if the answer is 230V what sort of plug do they make for those and do they come in outdoor safe enclosures? Or is it to be hardwired in a junction with a switch or something?

if 115V is the answer then is splitting the 230 circuit wise? I do have to figure out how to get the mixing station power (split from one of two circuits on the back of the wall for the tank or run something new) so perhaps that’s kills two birds with one stone.

 

[AaronFReef]

I picked out a 230V JBJ arctica manual and read it and see it uses a breaker hard wired (no plug). Oddly, to me at least, the controller actually provides the power over another section of wire to the actual cooler so that would mean the circuit would actually need to be inside. No fun on that. No easy spot to hide that where my fish tank is going. The wall would end up with a two gang GFCI outlet, a single gang GFCI outlet, and then this big old breaker for the chiller inside of some sort of box to hide it from view. Hmmmm….

Still wondering if the 230V units save power over the 115s. Oddly I calculated the 230V 1/2 HP Arctica to pull more wattage than the matching 115V…..2.9A v 5.1A

 

[Kershaw]

First off I’m not an electrician by trade, nor an engineer.

I believe when you have higher voltage your amperage drops. I also believe that lower amperage is more important then watts as far as cost to run. There is a book called uglies. It shows you how to convert watts, amps and all that stuff.

if you have 2x 12-3 circuits ran. I would use one for the chiller and split the other into two 115v. You would replace the double pole breaker with two single pole 20 amp breakers.
red = hot for one circuit
Black= hot for second.
white= Neutral
You may want to use a small sub panel to do this the safest way possible.

make sure if your not comfortable with electricity you ask for help or hire some one.

I also reserve the right to be completely wrong about all above information.

 

[AaronFReef]

Thanks for the input! Oddly enough I’m following your build thread as I’m also building a similar sized CDA. That’s what this is all for.
You may be right about the amperage. What I know about electricity though I can’t jive with that though.

power in watts = voltage x amperage

So 230 x 2.9 = 667W
115 x 5.1 = 586.5W

Weirdness!! I realize voltage is actually 120 and 240 in America but that’s the specs they provide so it’s not far off and won’t reverse the difference anyways. Why would this be? Perhaps just a product of the component choices in the Arctic’s chiller or pump design or something. Hmm

 

[Snoopy 67]

In the US it's either 120 or 240 then 360 & 480, but the later 2 only in mostly manufacturing.
Just put in a waterproof box for the chiller & use a plug rated for the amps you will run. It's done here in NY & Florida to keep heat outside. Plumbing will have to go through the wall with couplings & valves in case of a repair.

 

[Kershaw]

Thanks for the input! Oddly enough I’m following your build thread as I’m also building a similar sized CDA. That’s what this is all for.
You may be right about the amperage. What I know about electricity though I can’t jive with that though.

power in watts = voltage x amperage

So 230 x 2.9 = 667W
115 x 5.1 = 586.5W

Weirdness!! I realize voltage is actually 120 and 240 in America but that’s the specs they provide so it’s not far off and won’t reverse the difference anyways. Why would this be? Perhaps just a product of the component choices in the Arctic’s chiller or pump design or something. Hmm

Well good once my tank comes I’ll be running 2 120 circuits. And I’ll try and post pictures of the process. I would honestly just get a 120v chiller for ease of use. Easier to sell if you don’t need it later on.
Besides I imagine your chiller will be set to run in emergency’s only?
i live in Sacramento ca where it normally gets 100 -107 during summer, I keep my house at 78 when away and I have never needed one.

 

[AaronFReef]

Well good once my tank comes I’ll be running 2 120 circuits. And I’ll try and post pictures of the process. I would honestly just get a 120v chiller for ease of use. Easier to sell if you don’t need it later on.
Besides I imagine your chiller will be set to run in emergency’s only?
i live in Sacramento ca where it normally gets 100 -107 during summer, I keep my house at 78 when away and I have never needed one.

Yeah, to be honest I don’t even plan to buy one at first. I want to run it for a while and see if it’s necessary or if fans on the sump and in the canopy can compensate enough. We don’t have AC in coastal California often so now that we are having much more regular 100 degree days things aren’t quite set up as they would be for Sac. So I planned I would wire the circuit up while the wall is open. I have horizontal runs in between my framing making dropping a wire a real pain once the wall is closed.

You’re probably right that a 120V chiller is the way to go for resale value if the wattage is so close or even better oddly enough. Sounds like splitting that circuit into two 120Vs is the way to go. Thanks @Kershaw