3' 250L reef & submerged algae scrubber

my n was in the 60s now its down to 10 the cheato did not help at all like the hair algae is

That is the N number I targeted. After I setup an algae scrubber, some cheatos and bubble algae disappeared in my display, and no cheato grown on scrubber screen ever.
More interested is, at the beginning of tank build, something block my overflow, and obvious "oil film" appeared on the surface, and therefore cyanobacteria everywhere in DT. After cleaning the overflow, cyanobacteria start to grow on my scrubber, and I clean it every week as schedule, and finally it disappeared after 1~2month.
Thetefore, algae scrubber can become cyanobacteria scrubber if DOC accumulated.
 
My current setting of LED, 5050 RGB/NW led strip on both side, 3w 450/470blue,and 730 far red on center of bar.

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The monti becomes pale due to temperature swing to 22C two month ago. Only green one revovered recently.

NP 10/0.03
KH/Ca/Mg 7.8/370/1130
GHA 150g/week
Food 10g
Temp 26C
Salinity 1.025

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Another index of feeding is the population of tube warm. I heart that It takes DOM and food particles. If decreased means need more food. Natually, it gets more and more, and I need to increase the feeding.

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Yes food particles should look like a light snow flurry all the time, and even more at night, if you want the amount of food on real reefs. As the tubes and forams show up, they are consuming these particles.
 
I got corals from my friends to test the effect of high doc and to increase the consumption of dKH.

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WHICH PART OF YOUR SETUP IS HARDEST TO REACH OR REMOVE FOR ROUTINE MAINTENANCE?

  • Glass behind or beside the tank

    Votes: 8 33.3%
  • Powerheads or wavemakers

    Votes: 2 8.3%
  • Sump or rear filtration chambers

    Votes: 3 12.5%
  • Skimmer or other filtration equipment

    Votes: 1 4.2%
  • Overflow or plumbing

    Votes: 6 25.0%
  • Lights or lids

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Mine is pretty easy to access!

    Votes: 3 12.5%
  • Other—tell us what I missed

    Votes: 1 4.2%
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