3D Printing thread

TheHarold

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What in the world are you doing that breaks your thermistor that much? Testing lava temps with your printer isn't advised afaik






:D

+1

Ive never broken a thermistor..... No idea how that happens lol. Like if you are unscrewing the heat block, unscrew the thermistor first.....



Downloaded this Octoprint plugin to check my bed level- made a fine adjustment, and less than .04mm across the entire bed :)

Thats .0016", for you American losers xD @dantimdad
HFnMUZQ.jpg
 
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GrizFyrFyter

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The wires get damaged either by failed prints or by my clumsy butt while removing the hotend. It's a bigger issue on the printers I built with cheap parts 2 years ago, not so much on the ender 3 printers since they don't require as much maintenance.

My d-bot bed is dead level because I welded a jig for bending it straight when I got it bent out of the box.

My ender 3 beds are pretty close. I use manual mesh leveling with them and haven't had to adjust them in months.

My first printer is a mess. Every time I have to mess with it I am tempted to tear it apart and salvage part for other projects (like when I pulled out a thermistor wire last night while removing the hotend to switch nozzles).
 

madox

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Would you be able to share the STL for the DCS 6000 needle wheel by any chance? I've been meaning to make one for ages so that I can get my old skimmer up and running again with a DCS 6000 but I have been flat out the last couple of months and haven't had a chance. It would save me a heap of time if there was already an STL out there :)

Will share it tomorow :)
 

PicassoDan

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Anybody do any printing with ceramics?
I know the printers exist, and I've often though it would be cool to print frag plugs, discs, or even base rock with ceramic and then kiln fire it.

I have a kiln big enough for 18" x 18" x 24" pieces, just need the printer... not that I nee another hobby : /
 

dantimdad

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I use Bill Helyubuck ender 3 leveling squares after I use the sheet of paper to get it roughly level.

Now, I just use a skirt to start the print (or brim on really long stuff) and adjust on the fly by what I see.

I tried the EZABL and found it to be more trouble than it was worth and the firmware from it was terrible.

I reflashed my ender 3 to stock marlin with thermal runaway protection and am happier now.
 

dantimdad

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Random note, the Creality Pro is dialed in and running sexy... I am about 30 days away from ordering the Prusa :D Three printers running full time :D

My second ender 3 is running better than the first. LOL!

I am going to try an all metal hotend on the old one because, even with different hotend fixes, I am still getting ooze once in a while. The all metal hotend will fix that because the Bowden tube doesn't go all the way to the heatblock. At least that's the plan. :)
 

GrizFyrFyter

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Anybody do any printing with ceramics?
I know the printers exist, and I've often though it would be cool to print frag plugs, discs, or even base rock with ceramic and then kiln fire it.

I have a kiln big enough for 18" x 18" x 24" pieces, just need the printer... not that I nee another hobby : /
I know there have been some designs for syringe extruders.

I like your line of thought.

Honestly though, I've printed a bunch of stuff for plug makers. They make a silicone or sand mold and just pour emarco in.
 

reefwreck

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ok leveled bed pegt wont stay stuck nozzle temp 220 and bed 60 any ideas
 

Erica-Renee

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ok leveled bed pegt wont stay stuck nozzle temp 220 and bed 60 any ideas

it can be one of 3 things.

Bed distance from nozle, Bed temp or nozzle temp.. I run my temp at 236/ 82 for petg .. and have a bit more distance then for pla. the bead needs to lay down onto the bed and not squished like you need for pla....

hope this helps
 

TheHarold

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not even 6 calendar days later and my mk3s is in my hands. Impressed

IMG_0964.JPG

Dude I hope you greased bearings before assembly.... it’s a PITA to take apart otherwise.

https://prusacommunity.com/set-your-bearing-straight/

I recconend this greaser, for superlube.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3467168

Proper grease:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0081JE0OO?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title


Printed mine on the ender 3. Nothing wrong with that printer.... works great.

J443ss0.jpg



xuP5SLu.jpg
 

dantimdad

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it can be one of 3 things.

Bed distance from nozle, Bed temp or nozzle temp.. I run my temp at 236/ 82 for petg .. and have a bit more distance then for pla. the bead needs to lay down onto the bed and not squished like you need for pla....

hope this helps

I run at 230/68 on the glass bed for PETG and what @Erica-Renee said about squish is correct.

It also depends on the printer.

You could also try aqua net unscented mega hold. I don't need it anymore since I got my leveling/temps down pat but it works really well while you are learning.
 

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