Acer new 150 build

[vlangel]

Things have been going well. Will post new pics ASAP.

Current Water parameters tested in tank= 78 degrees, Salinity-=1.025, Alk= 6.7 DKH, Ca = 460, PH= 8.0 . I backed off of water changes and have been doing Kalkwasser in my ATO for the last 9 months now - have been very stable this way with the parameters listed above. DKH is lower now due to needing a water change - has been running 7.2 -7.8.

Tested the new water= Fritz RPO - mixed to 78 degrees and 1.025. Alk- 9.7DKH, PH= 8.2, Ca = 460

So, I think doing a 20 gallon water change with parameters above new water to my 190 total gallons in system wouold be enough of a ALK change to cause stess? Opinions?

I am looking forward to seeing those new pics. I am really happy that your tank has hit a very stable place. Its freeing when our tanks settle into that stable place so that we can just enjoy them without so much anxiety.

I would not expect 20 gallons of a water change to drastically change your alk since it is only about 10%. I am not very experienced with sps however but 10% WCs have no impact on my lps/softie coral. Are you going to periodically continue with 20 gallon WCs until your total alk is slowly raised?

I see the club has a frag swap coming up in April. I will try to make that.

 

[acer]

Here you go, as promised, from left side, midfle , and right

 

[vlangel]

Wow Ted, your aquarium really has hit its sweet spot! I love all the zoas and your fish selection. Its looking really really nice!

I guess I can't get on you for not having recent pics anymore. LOL

 

[acer]

Lol.. yes, tgank you. Your welcome to stop by anytime to check out the tank, and to catch up.

 

[acer]

Update, i decided to take out the shelve rock with the rbta's that are splitting too often and that has the green paly's that are taking over the rock. Had some rock soaking and prepped and then rearranged a few things. Saved the rbta's that I could ( in my refugium) and will recondition the shelve rock over time. This is the new rock work and coral placements om the left side now.

 

[acer]

Just some pics from yestetday.

 

[acer]

Hey fellow reefers- questions and updates - ya , I know - long overdue.

OK my old MP40 ( about 8 years old) finally died completely - magnet fails, etc. So I figured its time to get a new wave pump. Remember, I am putting about 1500gph from the sump in the basement using a Reeflow hybrid pump into the 150 gallon display via 5 spray nozzle's. So I don't really "need" more water movement- but I am getting "cyano" on my sand (only about 1/2 inch deep bed). I still have an old mp40 pointing back to front at about 1/2 depth running at about 50% (ramp up/down mode) on one side of the tank as well. So, to replace the other side wave pump the following options seem reasonable.

1) just buy another MP40 = $400 = tried and true - but been there, done that- no real complaints, but leaning toward trying something new with a wider flow that can be "pointed" rather than just a straight flow from the side or back of the tank.

2) Purchase a gyre of some kind:
a) Maxpect 350 w/ controller = $365
b) Icecapp 4k = $200
c) Redwave 45= $300

3) Tunze wavepump = Turbelle stream 3 = $330

I lost my 8 year old Melaranus Wrasse - never saw a body -but have not seen him in a week now. My SPS is growing slowly, and other corals doing well and i am actually getting some corals fighting each other. So, currently have a yellow wrasse and a pink spot gobi in the hospital tank with Prazi Pro ( treats fluks) - both are eating frozen brine so far.

******** opinions on the save pumps much appreciated ******

 

[Camaro Show Corals]

Hey fellow reefers- questions and updates - ya , I know - long overdue.

OK my old MP40 ( about 8 years old) finally died completely - magnet fails, etc. So I figured its time to get a new wave pump. Remember, I am putting about 1500gph from the sump in the basement using a Reeflow hybrid pump into the 150 gallon display via 5 spray nozzle's. So I don't really "need" more water movement- but I am getting "cyano" on my sand (only about 1/2 inch deep bed). I still have an old mp40 pointing back to front at about 1/2 depth running at about 50% (ramp up/down mode) on one side of the tank as well. So, to replace the other side wave pump the following options seem reasonable.

1) just buy another MP40 = $400 = tried and true - but been there, done that- no real complaints, but leaning toward trying something new with a wider flow that can be "pointed" rather than just a straight flow from the side or back of the tank.

2) Purchase a gyre of some kind:
a) Maxpect 350 w/ controller = $365
b) Icecapp 4k = $200
c) Redwave 45= $300

3) Tunze wavepump = Turbelle stream 3 = $330

I lost my 8 year old Melaranus Wrasse - never saw a body -but have not seen him in a week now. My SPS is growing slowly, and other corals doing well and i am actually getting some corals fighting each other. So, currently have a yellow wrasse and a pink spot gobi in the hospital tank with Prazi Pro ( treats fluks) - both are eating frozen brine so far.

******** opinions on the save pumps much appreciated ******

Ted, I’d recommend the Gyre 350 from your list. The ice caps are good but Gyres are better.

 

[acer]

Have been using a Grye for months now and its working just fine. Still having some slime algae , probably cyano, on my sand. Finally getting more motivated and doing water changes more regularly = 15 gallons every 2 weeks. So now running out of salt , have not had to purchase salt for 2 years now. So whats the "go to" for reasonable priced salt (mixed reef) system?

 

[Camaro Show Corals]

Have been using a Grye for months now and its working just fine. Still having some slime algae , probably cyano, on my sand. Finally getting more motivated and doing water changes more regularly = 15 gallons every 2 weeks. So now running out of salt , have not had to purchase salt for 2 years now. So whats the "go to" for reasonable priced salt (mixed reef) system?

Ted, im a fan of the Red Sea Blue bucket.

 

[acer]

I kinda confused as each has its critics, from what I have read. So, i guess test each batch no matter what u use is the way to go.

 

[acer]

Pics today, just an update, many at the recent "coral frag workshop" saw the tank. For those who didn't make it , here ya go.

 

[OfficeReefer]

Ok - I have been doing a build thread on that "other " website. So, Figured with a bit a prompting from a certain Member/MOD I would have a build thread here as well.

First some basic background or the plan:

After much researching, etc. I decided to purchase a 150 ( 60 x 24 x 24) starfire tank from SC Aquariums. It is a custom build due to not using their center overflow/plumbing systems. Instead I had them move the Euro-bracing up to toward the top of the tank ( normally they recess it nearly 2 inches - so by the time you install an overflow your waterline sits 2-2.5 inches below the top of the tank). I also had them drill the back with 3 holes for 1.5 inch Bulkheads. I am having the internal and external acrylic overflow system with "Bean animal" plumbing made for me locally. It will be a 48 inch long smooth weir internal overflow ( maximizing surface skimming) with a 30 inch external overflow - with 2 x one inch drains for the full siphon drain and trickle drain, and 1 x 1.5 inch emergency drain. The drains will lead to the basement where I will have a 40 breeder sump tank holding the filter socks, media reactors, and skimmer which will gravity drain -> to a 75 gallon refugium which will hold several macro algeas and live rock , -> which I will have plumbed to a Reeflo Barracuda pump. I have flex PVC for the plumbing and using true unions before and after the pump so I can clean/maintain it. I will be posting pics, and posts on the mistakes made already to help other NOT make the same mistakes.

I almost thought this was a build of a computer PC brand and aquarium.

 

[acer]

Why is that? That post is dated 2016.

 

[vlangel]

Nice Ted, some of those mushrooms are gorgeous! It looks like things are doing pretty well. Are you happy with the tank?