Acro Light Acclimating, how does everybody handle this

Flatlandreefer

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Whats your routine for light acclimating your acros? Does everybody start the frag on the sand bed and then slowly work it up the rock work over a few days/weeks? Is days sufficient or is weeks really necessary. So far I have gotten along ok with my acros, I did bleach a birds nest but I put that right at the top right off the bat and it was probably more sensitive than acros.
 

Clintcrabtree

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I have done it both ways (sandbed and move up slowly or just put it where you think you want it initially). I haven't really noticed a difference either way...BUT acros like the light so wouldn't want to leave to low for too long.
 

Clintcrabtree

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you are right happyhourhero - I have heard there is more of a need for acclimation if you are transferring frag grown under T5 to tank with LEDS.
 
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Flatlandreefer

Flatlandreefer

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The ones in question were being kept under halides but they seemed to be a little off to the side and not directly under the fixture.
 

Mal11224

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There are sellers who grow frags under various lights as a preference to their customers. I generally start my frags low near or on the sand and raise them gradually over the course of a few weeks using a frag rack. It has worked for me.
 

VP616

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Not sure of your equipment setup, but after a dip, I'll set them, and then restart the "acclimation mode" on the EcoTech Radions for a couple of weeks. Usually, tone the intensity down from the setpoint about 10%-20%, then go from there.

Also, like others have said, matching the type of lighting with the vendors and buying the corresponding coral also helps a lot with the light acclimating process.
 

masssnapz

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I use a magnetic frag rack and just raise it a couple inches every 4-5 days till it's close to the top and then just place the frag wherever.
 

myboyblu

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I have a QT setup with a Radion XR15 with the same program as my display. The bottom of my QT has the same par as the top 1/3 of my display. So after a dip the corals get put in a frag rack, set acclimation at 50% for 6 weeks in QT. this gives me a chance to make sure all critters are gone before going in main tank. It also allows me to put anywhere in display tank and not bother the inhabitants that are already happy.
When i do water changes the water from the display goes in the QT, water from QT goes down the drain. this allows straight from QT to display without any further acclimation.
 

mtraylor

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I think it depends on the light that you have and how well the light is spread throughout the aquarium. I personally just glue the corals exactly where I want them. I do no acclimation. I dip them for pests and glue. I have not had any issues with bleaching etc.
 

bif24701

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I put my acros in some egg crate on the sand bed for a few weeks, close to the glass so I can observe them for pests. When Im sure they are G2G the I glue them down, @~3-4 weeks
 

Mdw2589

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The change in water chemistry and dipping is stressful enough. I always place on sand bed/frag rack, in higher flow, regardless of previous lighting for a few days just till it gets settled. I'm always worried about adding too many stressors at once.
 

Camaro Show Corals

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I move the frag rack up about 2 inches every 2-3 days and closer to the power head so they get more flow after a week to a week and a half I mount them to the rock and watch them more to see if they need adjusting I also run acclimation mode on my radion
 

Camaro Show Corals

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Also something else that has helped me with frags are to feed them a lot about 4 times a week for a month it has really helped them get strong and encrust and not stn or rtn after a month I can normally go back to 2x a week and everyone is happy
 

jda

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The type of light moving to/from is the most important thing, IMO. If a LED is involved, then I would give it a 2-3 week slow acclimation. If not, then you can probably just place-and-go, provided that the placement is going to be appropriate in the future.
 

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