Advice for last week in Observational QT?

Klyle

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I realize I’m taking a risk here but it is what it is. I have a blue damsel and an orchid dottyback in observ. qt. This is the beginning of the 4th week. Everyone “looks” great and eating etc. Is there something I could do in this last week that will improve the odds of them being healthy once I move them to the DT? Like use Ruby Rally this last week, or a dip before moving to DT? I have all kinds of meds, I just haven’t had time to set up a proper qt. So yeah, I’m just looking for some advice about what I can do to improve the odds, not everything I’ve already done wrong. I am aware. Thanks for reading my post
 

vetteguy53081

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I realize I’m taking a risk here but it is what it is. I have a blue damsel and an orchid dottyback in observ. qt. This is the beginning of the 4th week. Everyone “looks” great and eating etc. Is there something I could do in this last week that will improve the odds of them being healthy once I move them to the DT? Like use Ruby Rally this last week, or a dip before moving to DT? I have all kinds of meds, I just haven’t had time to set up a proper qt. So yeah, I’m just looking for some advice about what I can do to improve the odds, not everything I’ve already done wrong. I am aware. Thanks for reading my post
I highly recommend being patient and follow through with quarantine which is worth its' wright and WAIT.
It is - what it is does not go far in this hobby. We all wish stocking the next day as with freshwater was the case but again- the first thing we endure in this hobby is " The waiting game- Life is often about waiting.
A week will go by quickly.
Tegarding Ruby Rally pro, you can sure place it in tank when fish are introduced to assure nothing foreign was transferred which will place things at a good start
 

Jay Hemdal

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I realize I’m taking a risk here but it is what it is. I have a blue damsel and an orchid dottyback in observ. qt. This is the beginning of the 4th week. Everyone “looks” great and eating etc. Is there something I could do in this last week that will improve the odds of them being healthy once I move them to the DT? Like use Ruby Rally this last week, or a dip before moving to DT? I have all kinds of meds, I just haven’t had time to set up a proper qt. So yeah, I’m just looking for some advice about what I can do to improve the odds, not everything I’ve already done wrong. I am aware. Thanks for reading my post

Four weeks of observational quarantine is better than nothing, but still is not as effective as a proactive process. One trick that public aquarists use is to use praziquantel and copper for the last three days - then move the fish out.

Jay
 
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Klyle

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I highly recommend being patient and follow through with quarantine which is worth its' wright and WAIT.
It is - what it is does not go far in this hobby. We all wish stocking the next day as with freshwater was the case but again- the first thing we endure in this hobby is " The waiting game- Life is often about waiting.
A week will go by quickly.
Tegarding Ruby Rally pro, you can sure place it in tank when fish are introduced to assure nothing foreign was transferred which will place things at a good start
Words of wisdom. I wouldn’t be taking this chance if I were moving them into my main DT. But this is a second one I recently set up and there’s only one other fish in there. I’m just really hoping the reefing Gods will give me just this one pass!
 

vetteguy53081

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Words of wisdom. I wouldn’t be taking this chance if I were moving them into my main DT. But this is a second one I recently set up and there’s only one other fish in there. I’m just really hoping the reefing Gods will give me just this one pass!
I understand. You can add ruby Rally and hope for the best. After 21 days, risk is obviously reduced.
 
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Klyle

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Four weeks of observational quarantine is better than nothing, but still is not as effective as a proactive process. One trick that public aquarists use is to use praziquantel and copper for the last three days - then move the fish out.

Jay
I have Copper Power and a Hanna Checker…what should I run the copper at? I realize I’m taking a chance but it’s not my main DT with all my fish. It’s a secondary DT I recently set up. The only bad thing is it’s my clown that you have helped save a couple of times. I want to do everything I can to keep her safe but my back is kinda against the wall and this was the best I could do this time. I really appreciate your advice Jay!
 

Jay Hemdal

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I have Copper Power and a Hanna Checker…what should I run the copper at? I realize I’m taking a chance but it’s not my main DT with all my fish. It’s a secondary DT I recently set up. The only bad thing is it’s my clown that you have helped save a couple of times. I want to do everything I can to keep her safe but my back is kinda against the wall and this was the best I could do this time. I really appreciate your advice Jay!

Copper Power, as dosed with the label instructions, usually tests out at 2.00 ppm. Active infections often require a level of 2.5 I often compromise and settle at 2.25

Jay
 
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Klyle

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Copper Power, as dosed with the label instructions, usually tests out at 2.00 ppm. Active infections often require a level of 2.5 I often compromise and settle at 2.25

Jay
Very much appreciated. I know what the directions say, just wanted to know what your thoughts were. Thanks again Jay
 

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