Albrecht's Chateau (3.7 g Reef)

Young_Reefer

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Hi everyone! This thread will be dedicated to documenting my re-emergence into the reef keeping hobby through the build and maintenance of a fish-less pico reef. This project began with my interest in the global coral bleaching crisis and I hope that it will instill a greater passion for reef building (hermatypic) corals in myself and others who follow along. These types of coral are generally categorized as SPS in the aquarium hobby although many LPS "build" a small skeletal system as well. So, my plan is to grow reef building corals from frags obtained from fellow reefers in a pico sps reef tank. Feel free to follow along!

P.S. I will start posting only the latest update in the first thread message because I'm long winded and I know it. The older updates will be posted in thread comments below.

03/06/2019
Stocked with SPS Frags!


Albrecht’s Chateau is looking good! Since the last update I have picked up 11 new frags including two acros, 2 types of zoas, a blasto merletti, and 6 species of montipora. With the addition of the new frags, I have also began daily alkalinity testing and have been successful in keeping it around 8-8.5 dkH. There have been a few challenges, the biggest being implementing 2-part dosing. I started by manually dosing DIY 2-part (Randy’s) at night. 1 ml of calcium and 2 ml bicarbonate per Randy’s recipe seemed to be working great. But, I had a trip home to visit family scheduled for a long weekend and used it as an excuse to build a Reef Pi doser “add-on” module.

The Reef Pi doser module I built houses two peristaltic pumps and the circuitry which is laid out in the Reef Pi guides. And it is powered by a 12 V supply, however, I chose not to use another Raspberry Pi Zero. Instead, I used some ethernet cable and two female ethernet ports to transfer signal from my “master” reef pi module to the doser module. Ethernet cables have 8 ports so it was the perfect fit; I needed a 5V power and ground and 6 signals (two to control the direction of each pump and one for the speed). I now have the doser set up and running and am playing with the amount to dose. It seems that the tank consumes somewhere between 0.3-0.5 dkH per day, but I need to do a more thorough study to nail this down (maybe 3 days without dosing and only testing morning and night?).

After dipping the new frags in Bayer, I decided to glue them all to live rock rubble I had in the overflow area. I did it outside of the tank after rinsing them, which allowed me to make sure the glue set and that I liked how they fit on the rubble pieces. I let them acclimate to the light for two weeks and then glued the rubble where I liked it in the tank. Three of the monti caps ended up on the back wall, I placed the across up high, and the other montis went on lower parts of the aquascape. I left the zoas on the substrate and the blasto in a medium height medium flow area.

I have started feeding more regularly also. I mix it up between reefroids and frozen mysis, always target feeding while the moonlight is on. The zoas and blasto will take pieces of mysis and Albrecht loves to get his anemones on some too. Interestingly, he actually lost or sat down his anemones for a few days… maybe he was molting? But they are back now and he is still very active at night. All the frags look great, except I lost my orange/yellow unidentified zoas. They seemed to just slowly shrivel up. All the sps have good polyp extension (especially when the moonlight is on), and the tank seems to be aging well (lots of new coralline).

I think the next few weeks I will focus on regular maintenance and growth. It will be tough, but I hope to refrain from buying any new corals. I have gotten all of my frags so far from fellow reefers and hope to keep it that way. Maybe I’ll reward myself if I can keep all of these in good shape for another month! Until then, Albrecht’s Chateau will be happily growing out!

Some Parameters:
o Temperature – 80 +/- 0.3 F
o Salinity – 1.025-1.026
o dkH – 8.0-8.5 (this has proved tough to manage)
o Max Kessil A80 Intensity = 80% for 4 hours
o Dosing ~ 1.5 ml Ca (3 seconds at 70%) and 3 ml Bicarbonate (6 seconds at 63%)
Dosing in the morning before lights come on

Equipment:
o Imagitarium 3.7 g tank
Glass glued to cover overflow except for the upper section (surface skimming)
o Kessil A80 Tuna Blue (~4-5 inches above water at a slight angle, timed by reef pi)
o 120 gph stock return pump
o 40 gph powerhead to break water surface (scheduled by reef pi for “random” flow)
o Prizm HOB Protein Skimmer (cut return to fit tank and sitting on small wood scraps)
Operating at approximately 70% flow (skimming wet)
o Standard dial heater and 2 in tank thermometers (monitored/controlled by reef pi)
o Some type of biomedia and carbon in the filtration inlet section
o Glass cover
o Wine Bottle ATO
o Reef Pi:
o 2 thermocouples and controlled heater
o Power strip controller
o Kessil A80 control
o Moonlight control
o 2-part Reef Pi doser based on Randy’s formula

Corals:
o 1 eagle eye zoa (6 heads)
o 1 colony of fire and ice zoas (25 ish heads)
o 1 colony of yellow zoas (10 ish heads)
o 1 red mushroom rock (4 shrooms, one detached and is now behind the large LR piece)
o 1 grey/green ricordea on frag plug (4 shrooms, 1 has two mouths)
o 1 blasto merletti (6 heads)
o 1 Recovering jingle bell cyphastrea
o 1 Joe the Coral Acro
o 1 unknown “skinny” tan acro with yellow polyps (ID Please? Its seen clearly in the Right Side View Image)
o 6 montiporas:
4 montipora capricornis (2 types of purple, light green, and orange)
1 orange setosa
1 green spongodes (ORA?)

Inverts/CUC:
o 1 pom pom crab (named Albrecht by Keri)
o 1 cerith snail
o 1 nassarius snail
o 1 scarlet hermits

Notes:
o Tune in dosing regimen
o Increase light intensity
o Add more live rock to filter area and maybe to the display (curing in bucket)

Pictures:

Full Tank Shot
Full Tank Shot.jpg

Left Side View
Left Side.jpg

Right Side View
Right Side.jpg

Reef Pi Doser
Doser.jpg

Adapted Ethernet Port
Ethernet Port.jpg

Reef Pi Connected to Doser (not hooked up to tank... I will post a full "setup" shot soon)
Doser Connected to Reef Pi.jpg
 
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mithracula

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Oooh I'm going to fallow along for the science explanations :) I didn't realize how bad the coral bleaching had gotten until I happened to watch Blue Planet II and Chasing Coral on Netflix. Then I was just angry-sad. Hope everything goes well and you inspire many people. Also, if you're looking for an App to replace Excel sheets, Aquarimate is an ($9.99) option for iOS. While it has some UX annoyances, the parameter log works well and it produces graphs.
 

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Very nice! Welcome to R2R! For what it is worth, I mostly use Excel or Google Sheets to track tanks. Sheets is nice because you can easily use devices instead of having to sit at a computer with Excel. I prefer them to apps because I like to customize everything.


 

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Thanks, I like it here! Sheets is great, especially since Microsoft office apparently moved to the subscription model, and I'm already paying for adobe CS so.. nope. What ever works for you the best! I did a survey a while ago for an app I was designing in school, those who keep reef tanks definitely keep better track of their tank parameters then the fresh side of things, spreed sheets were definitely one of the top choices.
 
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Young_Reefer

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Tracking parameters seems incredibly useful and is one of my main goals with this tank. I'm about to write up the 1 month update today... I posted the beginning write up in retrospect. There have been some surprises, but mainly good ones! Thank you both for your interest!
 
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Young_Reefer

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Beginnings (01/02/2019):
As a mentioned in the intro, this idea came about due to my love of corals and SCUBA. While at home visiting family over Christmas/New Years I began sorting through old SW tank equipment from my first endeavors into the hobby (2009-2013). After much deliberation (including trying to fix an old 16 W Wavepoint LED Fixture), I decided to bring an old 5 g saltwater tank back to life. My girlfriend, Keri, and I packed up the tank, two heaters, a thermometer, a HOB skimmer (Red Sea Prizm rated to 40 g), and various other supplies for the drive back to our apartment in Nashville. While I was hesitant at first, on the drive I started to get the reef bug! Scrolling through threads on the latest of LED technology I decided to replace my (probably fixable but outdated) Wavepoint fixture with either a Par38 bulb from Coral Compulsion or just bight the bullet and get the Kessil a80 Tuna Blue. In the middle of me rattling off lighting reviews and opinions (maybe a few facts), Keri mentioned I should check the Nashville Craigslist for reef tanks and supplies… I did, and immediately decided to begin haggling for a 3.7 g Imagitarium tank and some live rock and corals.

The deal ended with me driving to his house at 7 pm and paying $120 for the tank, aragonite substrate, one nice 1.5-2 lb piece of live rock (with a nearly dead jingle bell cyphastrea frag glued to the top), one yellow zoanthid frag with 3 heads, one eagle eye zoa with 5 heads, a rock with 4 red mushrooms, a plug with 4 grey/green ricordea (one with two mouths), and he “threw in” one cerith and one nassarius snail as a CUC. He also sent me off with water from his frag tank. I’m not sure of the quality of this deal, as I still had to buy new lighting, but it was exciting and the Imagitarium is a sleek looking tank compared to my cheapo 5 g tall.

After returning home the setup began. I got everything in the tank on its stand beside our bed. My purchase felt like even better of a deal when my Prizm HOB skimmer fit perfectly with only a small cut in the return slope necessary to accommodate a separator in the built-in filtration area of the tank. I threw a heater and thermometer in the return pump area and began mixing water and checking the salinity. With the tank filled and up to 76 F after an hour or so and the one piece of live rock centered in the tank, I began drip acclimating the corals and two snails. By the end of the first night I had the tank filled, everything running, and the corals acclimated. I placed the mushrooms in the substrate and the zoas at a low/medium height on the LR. Placing wasn’t a concern knowing I would be purchasing a new light immediately (the tank came with a 3 watt LED fixture which had a nice color but no brightness/intensity). I finished the night by mixing more salt water for water changes. I used only distilled water from Kroger ($0.89/ea) and shot for 1.023-1.024 using an old hydrometer.

By the next morning/midday all the corals were fully open (probably yearning for more light), however, the small yellow zoas appear to have either no tentacles, short tentacles, or retracted tentacles. I also found some aiptasia at the top of the LR and noticed that evaporation is going to be a larger problem than anticipated. I decided to leave the tank for a few days, purchased the a80 Tuna Blue and gooseneck for $150 and also a refractometer for $20. I spent all of January 2nd doing research instead of work (ohwell), and began addressing the evaporation problem with a “hamster bottle” type auto-top off made from a laboratory DI water bottle and some airline hose along with a cut piece of glass to cover the main tank area.

Water Parameters:
o Temperature – 78 F (still dialing it in)
o Salinity – 1.023-1.024 (planning to get a refractometer and do daily checks)

Equipment:
o Imagitarium 3.7 g tank with no modifications
o Stock Lighting (3 Watt LED)
o 40 gph stock return pump
o Prizm HOB Protein Skimmer (cut return to fit tank and sitting on small wood scraps)
Operating at approximately 50% flow (dialed at a 45 deg angle)
o Standard dial heater and in tank thermometer (in return pump section)
o Sponge Filter in middle section
o Some type of biomedia in the filtration inlet section
o Glass cover

Tank Inhabitants:
o ~2 lb aragonite substrate
o 1.5-2 lb piece of live rock
Aipatasia hitchikers (maybe 3)
Nearly dead jingle bell cyphastrea on frag plug glued to rock near top)
o 1 eagle eye zoa (5 heads)
o 1 yellow?orange? Zoa (3 heads)
o 1 red mushroom rock (4 shrooms)
o 1 grey/green ricordea on frag plug (4 shrooms, 1 has two mouths)
o 1 cerith snail
o 1 nassarius snail

Notes:
o Need to start monitoring temp and salinity more closely
Refractometer coming soon!
Excel sheet?
o Need to address the evaporation problem and monitor water level
Hamster bottle ATO in progress
Marked desired water level with sharpie
o Surface scum is already present
May glue a piece of glass or plastic over the filtration inlet slits to leave only the top open
o Will start irradiating aiptasia with a syringe and lemon juice
o May buy a test kit, more LR or filter media, and a digital thermometer
o Kissel a80 Tuna blue and refractometer in the mail!

Pictures:
 
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Young_Reefer

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So, lately I have been trying to set up remote access or at least viewing/email updates from my Reef Pi. The specific issues are that on my adafruit.io account, I can add dashboards and blocks to the dashboards but I get an error message that says "There is no data to display". I am trying to monitor the temperature and the status of the power to my heater through adafruit so that I can fine tune my temperature managements. I can, however, view the status of my moonlight, the CPU usage, and the memory. Could you please advice @Ranjib Thanks in advance!
Adafruit Temperature and Heater Charts.PNG Adafruit Channel Options.PNG
 

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So, lately I have been trying to set up remote access or at least viewing/email updates from my Reef Pi. The specific issues are that on my adafruit.io account, I can add dashboards and blocks to the dashboards but I get an error message that says "There is no data to display". I am trying to monitor the temperature and the status of the power to my heater through adafruit so that I can fine tune my temperature managements. I can, however, view the status of my moonlight, the CPU usage, and the memory. Could you please advice @Ranjib Thanks in advance!
Adafruit Temperature and Heater Charts.PNG Adafruit Channel Options.PNG
Rename your temp sensors without any space in the name and reload reef-pi.
I love these pico tanks, I have the exact tank. They are gorgeous.
How is the Ricordia doing? I worry it may bleach out if directly exposed to stress no light .
 
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Young_Reefer

Young_Reefer

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Rename your temp sensors without any space in the name and reload reef-pi.
I love these pico tanks, I have the exact tank. They are gorgeous.
How is the Ricordia doing? I worry it may bleach out if directly exposed to stress no light .

I'll give that a try tonight! Thanks. And the rics seem good right now, but my A80 reaches 85% for 4 hours so it may be a good idea to move them into a shaded area. I'm also concerned about the red shrooms (one detached and hid in a darker area already). My February update will show the introduction of a few sps and an lps or two... so I need the light intensity.
 

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Awesome build man! Good job on the reefpi! I love the idea but I don’t think I’m handy enough to figure it out lol. How does this wine bottle ATO work? I’m curious.
 
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Young_Reefer

Young_Reefer

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Awesome build man! Good job on the reefpi! I love the idea but I don’t think I’m handy enough to figure it out lol. How does this wine bottle ATO work? I’m curious.

It’s just a gravity based ato, some call it a hamster bottle ato. You just fill an airtight container with a tube with your top off water, submerse the tube just below the water’s surface, flip the container upside down and position it upside down and above the tank. When the tank water evaporates and drops below the opening of the tube, fresh water is released because the pressure inside your ato container is now greater than at the tube opening. The water level raises, covers the tube, and the pressure is equal again. The one trick is that your tube needs to be large enough to allow air bubbles to travel up it and cannot have any major kinks. This keeps my tank topped off for about 5 days. I’ll probably put together a controller based ato someday, but this setup is too simple to replace right now.
 
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Young_Reefer

Young_Reefer

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One Month Down (02/05/2019)
Well, the pico now has a name! It's Albrecht's Chateau, named after the pom pom that came as a hitch hiker on live rock rubble that I bought for the middle filter area of the overflow. Many changes have been made since the first few days the tank was running and I'll try to cover them briefly here. In general everything is going very well. I have lost two hermits to still unknown causes... And the biggest surprise is that the "nearly dead" jingle bell cyphastrea has fully recovered and looks great! I will summarize the first month into a few "projects": 1. Necessary Upgrades 2. Dealing with Evaporation, 3. Acquiring a Water Change Routine, 4. Building an Implementing a DIY Controller (Reef Pi), and 5. Planning/Stocking

1. Necessary Upgrades:
Well, as I mentioned in my first post, I purchased a Kessil A80 with the gooseneck clamp. I am happy with this light and my few softies seemed to respond well to me slowly ramping up the intensity over several days. I had a few thoughts about other lights but in the end I am very satisfied with the A80. I also purchased a refractometer which has been a great tool. I do plan on calibrating it myself but I already trust its readings much more than my old hydrometer (which consistently reads 0.002 higher). Another great upgrade was the return pump. I bought a 120 gph pond pump at my local hardware store and it fit perfectly where the original 40 gph one was. It did need some Teflon tape and patience to get the fittings well sealed in the tight return pump compartment. I began running a small (~3 tbsp) bag of activated carbon and placed the 40 gph powerhead in the display area just above the return pump outlet. It breaks the surface nicely. With these upgrades I am pleased with my flow and water quality. Not to mention my new ability to control everything (see below!).

2. Evaporation:
It was immediately apparent that evaporation would be an issue, especially because I travel often and hope to leave the tank for up to a week at a time. So, I got to work on a diy lid made from single pane glass. I cut the lid using a diamond coated glass shaper (used for stained glass work) and covered the edges with split airline tubing (1/4"). It sits perfectly on the tanks glass rim. I also added a "hamster bottle" style ato, using a wine bottle instead. It is secured to the wall with velcro and I monitored the evaporation rate by marking the bottles level each day and it can last up to 6 days at a tank temperature of 79-80 F. I highly recommend this type of ato on a pico as it is simple and reliable, and picos do not need a massive ato reservoir. Thanks to these precautions I have had a very stable salinity, right at 1.026 (higher than I initially though I should run).

3. Water Change Routine
I have slowly adapted my water change routine as I have dealt with diatoms and hair algae in this first month. Some very helpful advice: 1. Add mechanical filtration to the filter media/overflow area while you scrub glass/blow off live rocks and substrate with a turkey baster. This requires that you leave on the return pump and do not yet drain the water. I do this while I am checking my freshly mixed SW's salinity and dKh. Afterwards you can simply remove the mechanical filtration media (I use pillow stuffing) and therefore remove excess detritus and algae.
2. Really think about your salt mix! I started with red sea coral pro and have since realized that I would have most likely killed any sps down the road due to alkalinity swings during the water change. I now use red sea blue bucket, but, am still wrestling with how to know how much an alk difference between tank after and fresh mix will affect the alk of the tank. I hope to post a detailed explanation of this soon... The key here is to test your water change water and know what you are putting in your tank. Seems obvious, but for us newbies it isn't always immediately apparent.
I am now happy and confident in my WC routine but I am sure it will continue to develop!

4. Reef Pi
This is a long story... Simply put, if you like DIY and are comfortable with both electronics and software/programming (or you want to learn like me!), then you should consider building a Reef Pi! This is a controller developed by R2R member @Ranjib and his build thread and website have everything you need to know. I built an "all in one" system with one raspberry pi zero and it controls two temperature sensors, my heater, the Kessil A80, a small moonlight, and a total of 8 power outlets. It is incredibly useful and I love it so far. I have the 40 gph powerhead timed to turn on and off throughout the day. The Kessil ramps up from morning to midday and back down for dusk as the moonlight takes over. And, my tank stays at a constant temp of 80 +/- 0.1 F thanks to the two temperature sensors. It did take a couple weeks and cost about $150-$180. I do plan on adding a water level sensor in the future as well.

5. Stocking/Planning
My stocking plan has changed rapidly and more than anything else. It was initially a mixed/sps dominated reef with a goby, but, I now plan to make it an sps tank with some zoas and mushrooms and NO FISH. I'm not against having a fish for any reason other than stability for the sps. Plus, Albrecht the pom pom is plenty fun for me. He comes charging out every night and loves mysis. He is very shy though and is easily scared back into his cave. I plan to get several monti frags soon including digitata, setosa, spongodes, and capricornis. Hopefully they'll be featured in the next update! For now, everything is really stable except the dKh which I'm currently working on (I'm shooting for 8.5). I also have some algae growth after a heavier feeding of mysis... hopefully that slows down.
 

Fusion in reefing: How do you feel about grafted corals?

  • I strongly prefer grafted corals and I seek them out to put in my tank.

    Votes: 3 3.7%
  • I find grafted corals appealing and would be open to having them in my tank.

    Votes: 47 58.0%
  • I am indifferent about grafted corals and am not enthusiastic about having them in my tank.

    Votes: 23 28.4%
  • I have reservations about grafted corals and would generally avoid having them in my tank.

    Votes: 5 6.2%
  • I have a negative perception and would avoid having grafted corals in my tank.

    Votes: 3 3.7%
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