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Mostly minor but visible differences. The 150w has a slightly different spectrum than thecv250,400 if I remember correctly.That OG 14000k hurts my brain. Here’s newer.
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Mostly minor but visible differences. The 150w has a slightly different spectrum than thecv250,400 if I remember correctly.That OG 14000k hurts my brain. Here’s newer.
My main goal would be to add par in order to grow acropora. Would the 410/420/470 option be better suited for that with the added boost in the lower 400 range or would the full 470 do just as good? Trying to wrap my head around the led spectrum thing.Just 470nm, or consider repeating 410/420/470. The G5/G6 went meh on the lower violet. The below is all channels at 100%.
Do not believe Populargrow bars have channels either.
I'd need the power supply stats but looks to be 9 in series then, depending on length x number in parallel.
18,27,36 all divisble by 9.
I have a pattern, much like the reef crest.
Only 4 "colors". A toned neutral white with the proverbial broad blue band.
450's filled in by the white.
Diode actual nm are dependent
on what bin they get.
You can up the nm of whites but suggest never going beyond 8000k
will no longer be near 12000k-ish
Keep in mind these are napkin estimates and still not sure about you goal as to using it for "pop" or just par and a more non-blue look.x
Feels like going full circle.Posted September 16, 2010
470nm cool blue, with cool white and royal blue is an awesome combo, and has brought out good colors on my sps
Haha no I see where you are going with this, no need for sorries!6:12:6 w:rb:b Blade ratios.
75% white, 25% blue is your comfort level.
Now did you orig. mean all blues or just the rb channel was dimmed ( there are 3 channels right?)
I did both..hopefully it's fairly easy to understand.
4.5 white 4.5 " blue"
4.5w,3rb, 6b
That's about your " sweet spot" translated to " led diode equivalency"
You basically shut off 15 out of 24 LEDs
Or 10.5 LEDs assuming reg blue was at 100%
So really 50:50 mix.
Or alternate 1:2. white:"blues"
Point of choosing either a different bar or custom is to not waste a lot of what you paid for.
Keep in mind this sort of assumes each color is outputting the same # of photons.
So there is a bit of a fudge here.
It isn't always the case.
I'm guessing the blades blues and whites are fairly equivalent in output.
History..
Warm White, Neutral White, and Cool White? Help clear the haze!
Can someone please explain to me or point me in the right direction to better understanding which is better. I see a lot of people using cool white leds and yet read an article stating cool white led is useless in a reeftank. I also have read that the neutral whites 5k are the better leds to...www.reef2reef.com
See post #7 for thoughts on the use of low k whites. Well the whole thing really..
If you get really bored .
The age of those discussions is sort of interesting.LED Aesthetics: What do you really think of your color?
Hey there, I thought i would link to here in order to get more opinions and ideas regarding the overall color appearance of LED setups. There has been quite a large conversation going on over here,http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1885076 and i think this concerns nano owners as ...www.nano-reef.com
Btw:
For your own safety (less chance of poor diodes) probably best to shift the whites to 5000k.
Sorry for the late correction. Was obsessing over the real 12000k ish thing.
For fun why I find things like the blade sort of humerous:
Feels like going full circle.
Any one has input on this? I would like to order 2 bars to supplement my xr15 g5 pro and can't decide on full 470 or 470/420/410My main goal would be to add par in order to grow acropora. Would the 410/420/470 option be better suited for that with the added boost in the lower 400 range or would the full 470 do just as good? Trying to wrap my head around the led spectrum thing.
One could argue that the 410/420 is less efficient in photosynthesis based on the absorption characteristics of chl A.Any one has input on this? I would like to order 2 bars to supplement my xr15 g5 pro and can't decide on full 470 or 470/420/410
Chlorophyll a' is present in the chloroplasts. It is a chief pigment that exhibits a higher rate of photosynthesis. 'Chlorophyll a' shows maximum absorption at wavelengths 430-470 nm (blue region) and 660-670 nm (red region).
Here's your light running AB+ overlayed with Chl a (pink) and Chl b (yellow). You have 450nm covered (Chl b), and suggest not adding more. But then there's Chl a, and you're not hitting those peaks much at all. As you mentioned, a 410/420/470nm bar would compliment the G5 Radion quite well. The lower spectrum diodes would hit Chl a. The 470nm will give you some pop the Radion is lacking.Any one has input on this? I would like to order 2 bars to supplement my xr15 g5 pro and can't decide on full 470 or 470/420/410
Glad I ordered the 410/420/470 version then. I'll report back once I get them, they are from EPOCHSHINE Aquaponic Store, I was quoted 100USD for 2 55cm bars with that spectrum, and they include a timer with dimmable function and 90 degree lenses.
Correct me if i'm wrong but the 90 degree lenses look more appealing for me since the bars cover the entire width of my tank (23 ish inches) and will focus the light more towards the part of the tank I keep sps in, instead of spreading it towards the edges where I keep some of my lps. My tank is about 20 inches deep.
Any one has input on this? I would like to order 2 bars to supplement my xr15 g5 pro and can't decide on full 470 or 470/420/410
BRS may have gave it a catchy name but the concept is old..@telegraham is absolutely correct. Technically, you could grow coral using nothing but 450nm blue LEDs. They may not look the greatest, but they would certainly grow.
I agree 100% with the BRS "biology band" premise, I only disagree with the arbitrary lower and upper limits they chose. Personally, I want to hit as much as I can between 395nm and 500nm. The colors you chose should compliment your Radion perfectly to fill in what's missing.
BRS may have gave it a catchy name but the concept is old..
Coral Color Management|BlueHarbor
This is a coral color management theory created by scientifically understanding the color of coral from an optical perspective.www.blueharbor.co.jp두발로 걷는 길 - 2019년 새해 福 많이 받으세요 : 네이버 블로그
blog.naver.com
Right... i'm talking to the seller right now, maybe I should ask what lenses he has available to change them out for my current mounting height (I think its 8 or 9 inches since I use the AMS mount, I was thinking of doing something similar to this:The lens/beam width has a lot to do with how high you mount the lights. Due to spread (beam width), the optimal height above the water for a Radion is 8-ish inches. They just released a lens "upgrade" to narrow the beam for deeper tanks and/or higher mounting, but their stock lens is good at 8" above the water.
Lights like the AI Prime/Hydras have narrower stock beams, so they need to be mounted higher to cover the same surface area. That's why you see them mounted 10-14" above tanks (depending on the area you need to cover).
If you think of it this way... a 90 degree beam will have to be mounted half of the width of the area you want to cover. If you're trying to light a 24" wide area, you'll need the light mounted 12" high. A 100 degree lens drops that to 10", and a 120 degree lens would drop that to 7". Make sense?
The hard part is if you mix beam angles. If your primary lighting is a Radion mounted at 8", and your supplemental lighting uses 90 degree lenses, you might get some noticeable color separation (disco ball) if you mount the bars at 8". Conversely, if you raise the Radions to a 12" height to match the supplemental bars' optimum height, you'll spill a TON of light into the room. Wasted PAR. But in that instance, the "upgrade" lens from Ecotech should solve the issue.
Cooked up a DIY mounting solution for the AliE bars with XR15.
Thanks ill go rewatch that sometime todayI don't have one so can't measure but there are a couple reports. Watch innapropriate reefer's videos on the AliE bars, he measures par on his tank with and without the light.
I got about 100-120 par through out the tank with the below setup. Tank dimensions 24" x 16".Hey just saw this thread, picked a bar up a few weeks ago. Does anyone know how much par the bars give off? I have the 4 foot bar and dont have access to a par meter to do readings I just dimmed my g5 xr30's down and observing my corals
This is a great point, and if you can mount lights ~12" (my sweet spot because I don't want to worry about low lights over a tank), that 70°ish lens swap might be the right move.The hard part is if you mix beam angles. If your primary lighting is a Radion mounted at 8", and your supplemental lighting uses 90 degree lenses, you might get some noticeable color separation (disco ball) if you mount the bars at 8". Conversely, if you raise the Radions to a 12" height to match the supplemental bars' optimum height, you'll spill a TON of light into the room. Wasted PAR. But in that instance, the "upgrade" lens from Ecotech should solve the issue.
This, too! I run a spectrum hits 385nm (UV peak, not ramp) to 500nm.I agree 100% with the BRS "biology band" premise, I only disagree with the arbitrary lower and upper limits they chose. Personally, I want to hit as much as I can between 395nm and 500nm.