Alternative to Hanna Phosphorus ULR

[Crashjack]

I'm looking for a test kit to measure low range phosphate... a test kit other than the Hanna Phosphorus ULR. I already have a Hanna ULR, but stomping on it is going to be the best thing for my health (reduce my blood pressure, relieve some headaches, lower my anxiety, etc.), plus destroying it will save me a lot of time. Since my ULR will be in pieces, I will need a new test kit (not another Hanna unless I can get one that waits at least 4-5 minutes before shutting-off, or one that uses a liquid regent like their alkalinity checker, or preferably both of these options).

I know I sound like I'm bashing the Hanna ULR... ok, I am, but I'm not the one who designed a digital test kit that shuts-off in 3 minutes when it takes 4 minutes to prepare the test sample so I accept no responsibility for my actions. All bashing aside, is there an alternative test kit that accurately measures low levels of phosphate that is also fairly easy to read?

 

[TangingOut]

Just set a timer on your phone when performing the test. I've never had it shut off on me. I set a 3 minute timer after C2 and re-set it for the 3 minute count down.

 

[Lasse]

I start with open the package with the reagent. 1.37 in this video its shown how to do it in a smart way. After that I fill upp the vial and make the Zero calibration. Direct after that - turn in the reagent - shake for two minutes. Put in the vial and press for 3 minutes. After this I take up the Vial and slowly turn it around in order to take away all tiny bubbles. Put back the vial and wait. Today I do not use the ULR because - for me - it tends to show to high levels compared with Triton Tests and I get a false security. I us the normal Phosphate low range - but even that can show to high values. I always take the sample below the surface - because in many aquariums - there can be an organic film that can make the result wrong. Its also a good idea to wash the vials (and caps) with acid now and then.

I´m sorry to say - I haven´t found a better test equipment for a low cost compared with Hanna - personally - I get crazy trying to valuate small colour differences with other methods

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Crashjack]

Just set a timer on your phone when performing the test. I've never had it shut off on me. I set a 3 minute timer after C2 and re-set it for the 3 minute count down.

I start with open the package with the reagent. 1.37 in this video its shown how to do it in a smart way. After that I fill upp the vial and make the Zero calibration. Direct after that - turn in the reagent - shake for two minutes. Put in the vial and press for 3 minutes. After this I take up the Vial and slowly turn it around in order to take away all tiny bubbles. Put back the vial and wait. Today I do not use the ULR because - for me - it tends to show to high levels compared with Triton Tests and I get a false security. I us the normal Phosphate low range - but even that can show to high values. I always take the sample below the surface - because in many aquariums - there can be an organic film that can make the result wrong. Its also a good idea to wash the vials (and caps) with acid now and then.

I´m sorry to say - I haven´t found a better test equipment for a low cost compared with Hanna - personally - I get crazy trying to valuate small colour differences with other methods

I already have a ritual in place that includes using my phone's timer and opening the regent first, and pouring the regent into a folded index card to slide into the cuvette. The problem with the short time frame isn't just the checker timing out, but the rush I'm in leads to other mistakes. I performed 4 tests yesterday and used 5 packets of regent and never got a final reading. Test 1: I forgot to hold the button to start the timer at the add C2 prompt (I just pushed the button and let go). The instruction state you can wait 3 minutes and not use the timer,... WRONG... mine shut-down after about a minute. I had to start all over. Test 2: I spilled some of my regent outside the cuvette, which ruined the sample and forced me to start all over. Test 3: I remembered to hold the button at the add C2 mark, but was at a bad angle and couldn't tell whether it started the clock or just displaying an initial reading. I held a little too long, and the checker shut-off. I had to start all over. Test 4: Just as I pushed and held down the button at the C2 mark, the unit shut-down (pressing down the button doesn't stop the 3:00 minute countdown to shut-down. Only the countdown clock starting interrupts the shut-down countdown). In the middle of all that, I spilled some regent when pouring into my index card. That didn't force a re-test but wasted a packet of regent.

I'm handicapped, which admittedly slows the process down a little... probably :15 - :30 seconds, but when I wasn't handicapped, I couldn't have consistently done this test in 3 minutes if I shook the cuvette for the full 2 minutes. The test procedure is horribly flawed when forced into a 3 minute window.

 

[andrewkw]

I use a Mi412 Phosphate (Low Range) Professional Photometer
http://www.milwaukeeinst.com/site/products/products-by-parameters/phosphate
Stays on until you turn it off. No complaints other then the reagents branded for this machine are getting harder to find (BRS does still sell them) that being said they are identical to the hanna ones so they are interchangeable. I have been sparingly testing my phosphates for a while until I tried the hanna reagents.

 

[Lasse]

This has a 10 minutes span.

But if your shout down after 1 minutes - it must be some wrong with it. My take 3 minutes before shout down.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Crashjack]

I use a Mi412 Phosphate (Low Range) Professional Photometer
http://www.milwaukeeinst.com/site/products/products-by-parameters/phosphate
Stays on until you turn it off. No complaints other then the reagents branded for this machine are getting harder to find (BRS does still sell them) that being said they are identical to the hanna ones so they are interchangeable. I have been sparingly testing my phosphates for a while until I tried the hanna reagents.

This has a 10 minutes span.

But if your shout down after 1 minutes - it must be some wrong with it. My take 3 minutes before shout down.

Great info.! These are the same devices as the procedure, time, margin of error, 9v battery, etc. are all the same. The Hanna device allows for calibration, but is $50 more than the Milwaukee. I hate to give Hanna more money after the $50 I spent for the ULR, but it is something to ponder. The Milwaukee saves money, but you have nothing to gauge accuracy by and have no way to calibrate.

 

[coweyes298]

This is what I did with my Hanna ULR PO4. I cut one corner of the powder packet to open it up before I start the Hanna.

After reading the plain tank water sample (C.1->C.2) I move the cuvette out and start dumping the powder into the cuvette from the opening I cut. You may need to squeeze the two sides of the packet while dumping.

After this I cut along the two side, one side at a time. I also cut the bottom corner out to make it easier to dump. After cutting one side I dump the powder, and then move to the other side.

This way you can almost dump 95 to 99% of powder from the packet to the sample. After dumping all the powder I close the cap then press the Hanna read button for 3 or 5 second. This will trigger the 3 min countdown on Hanna. Below is the picture shows it is counting at 2:57 mark.

Then I shake it for 2 and half to 3 min. I usually leave 1 min left for me to clean the glass and check for bubble. I put the cuvette in ULR around 30 to 20 second left on the countdown. Then I close the ULR cap and wait.

I actually measure it while taking the photo, and I still have tons of time left. Well I did this procedure for 2 years so I am good at it as well...

 

[coweyes298]

P.S. I remember Hanna URL PO4 will shut itself off on waiting the C.2 input for 3 minutes. You need to cut and dump the packet into the cuvette inside this 3 minutes mark. After putting powder into the cuvette, press the read button for 3/5 seconds. It will start a new 3 minutes countdown and shows on its screen. I use this 3 minutes countdown for actually mixing the powder inside the cuvette.

 

[Crashjack]

This is what I did with my Hanna ULR PO4. I cut one corner of the powder packet to open it up before I start the Hanna.

After reading the plain tank water sample (C.1->C.2) I move the cuvette out and start dumping the powder into the cuvette from the opening I cut. You may need to squeeze the two sides of the packet while dumping.

After this I cut along the two side, one side at a time. I also cut the bottom corner out to make it easier to dump. After cutting one side I dump the powder, and then move to the other side.

This way you can almost dump 95 to 99% of powder from the packet to the sample. After dumping all the powder I close the cap then press the Hanna read button for 3 or 5 second. This will trigger the 3 min countdown on Hanna. Below is the picture shows it is counting at 2:57 mark.

Then I shake it for 2 and half to 3 min. I usually leave 1 min left for me to clean the glass and check for bubble. I put the cuvette in ULR around 30 to 20 second left on the countdown. Then I close the ULR cap and wait.

I actually measure it while taking the photo, and I still have tons of time left. Well I did this procedure for 2 years so I am good at it as well...

P.S. I remember Hanna URL PO4 will shut itself off on waiting the C.2 input for 3 minutes. You need to cut and dump the packet into the cuvette inside this 3 minutes mark. After putting powder into the cuvette, press the read button for 3/5 seconds. It will start a new 3 minutes countdown and shows on its screen. I use this 3 minutes countdown for actually mixing the powder inside the cuvette.

My understanding was that the cuvette had to be in the checker before holding down the button and had to remain in the checker during the entire countdown. If not, I have about a 6 minute window and problem solved. However, if it isn’t necessary to have the cuvette in the checker during the 3 minute countdown, what the heck is the countdown for?

 

[coweyes298]

My understanding was that the cuvette had to be in the checker before holding down the button and had to remain in the checker during the entire countdown. If not, I have about a 6 minute window and problem solved. However, if it isn’t necessary to have the cuvette in the checker during the 3 minute countdown, what the heck is the countdown for?

No you don't have to. It will read the sample after 3 min countdown. During the 3 min countdown ULR is doing nothing , so the cuvett can be out .

 

[coweyes298]

And I remember some said that you need to let powder mixed sample to sit for 3 min before reading. I tried that and also compared with my method several times, not noticeable difference on the two readings. For me 3 min sitting time is not doing anything...

 

[Potatohead]

I just shake the crap out of it for about 70-80 seconds, I find you don't need to do two minutes. Then work the bubbles out for a few seconds and it's good to go

 

[PopaSmurph]

I had the same problem with the time being too short. Now I use both cuvettes one with tank water sitting in checker and one with reagent I'm mixing. When my timer on my phone hits 1:45 I turn on my checker and start my c1 test. By the time it's at 2:00 of mixing, I start clearing the bubbles before add c2 pops up so it's ready by the time the checker asks for it. So my checker only says add c2 for 10-20 seconds at most before I start the c2 test. I have consistent test results and no more headache of barely missing the shut off time on the checker. Hope this helps you find peace of mind with your ULR and everyone with the time constraint of this impatient checker.

 

[Mindi]

I really dont think the 2 cuvette approach is good. Too much risk of optical difference between the cuvettes. I just never have this problem as I think that recent batches of the powder are more soluble than in the past and I shake the crap out of it for probably less than a minute ...then tap the bubbles out.

 

[Mindi]

My concern with all hobby testing is that we never see the products benchmarked for accuracy against lab standard tests. I have seen a a comprehensive article on popularity and ease of use... but once you think out a slick process they are all easy to use (maybe Red Sea pro kits not so...)
I use Hanna for Alk, Calcium, Phosphorus but really am seduced by the brand credentials and the hi-tech aspect, plus the avoidance of manual colour judging to which I bring an expectation bias. That said, I have no idea how accurate they really are. I do occasionally do a Salifert test to compare but they are often as much as 10% different. Even a comprehensive benchmarking against a laboratory would only be valid for that batch of reagents anyway..?. There are no grounds at all for being particularly confident about the real accuracy of these tests. I guess that the removal of human subjectivity is likely an advantage for sure.

 

[Servillius]

I'm looking for a test kit to measure low range phosphate... a test kit other than the Hanna Phosphorus ULR. I already have a Hanna ULR, but stomping on it is going to be the best thing for my health (reduce my blood pressure, relieve some headaches, lower my anxiety, etc.), plus destroying it will save me a lot of time. Since my ULR will be in pieces, I will need a new test kit (not another Hanna unless I can get one that waits at least 4-5 minutes before shutting-off, or one that uses a liquid regent like their alkalinity checker, or preferably both of these options).

I know I sound like I'm bashing the Hanna ULR... ok, I am, but I'm not the one who designed a digital test kit that shuts-off in 3 minutes when it takes 4 minutes to prepare the test sample so I accept no responsibility for my actions. All bashing aside, is there an alternative test kit that accurately measures low levels of phosphate that is also fairly easy to read?

So I found this frustrating for some time. Once I adjusted my method a bit, things started going much better.

Before I start, I tap the reagent to the bottom of the packet, cut it open by cutting the packet in half on the diagonal and setting it aside carefully. I then set a two minute phone timer and set my phone aside. I fill the ampule, do the zero run, open the ampule, add the reagent, close it, start the timer and do the two minute mix. Come out with plenty of time.

Here’s the thing. There is no other test that is even close for the money we would be willing to spend. Some days you just need to compromise with the machine rather than throw your body into the gears trying to grind it to a halt.

 

[Servillius]

And I remember some said that you need to let powder mixed sample to sit for 3 min before reading. I tried that and also compared with my method several times, not noticeable difference on the two readings. For me 3 min sitting time is not doing anything...

I’ve found consistently if you don’t wait the full 5 - 6 mins you get unreliable results.

 

[saltyhog]

I'm surprised this is such an issue.

First, the powder is in excess and spilling a small amount is inconsequential.

I set a 5 minute timer on my watch. As soon as C2 appears I remove the cuvette and put the powder in (after preparing the pouch ahead of starting the test) , hit the timer and grasp the cuvette by the cap and invert it repeatedly for 2 minutes. I then place it in the tester and hold the button until the count down starts. When the timer goes off it reminds me to go back and check the result. I've never had the powder fail to dissolve with the two minutes of repeated inversion and my test consistency is good.

This is how I prepare the pouch.

 

[Crashjack]

I had the same problem with the time being too short. Now I use both cuvettes one with tank water sitting in checker and one with reagent I'm mixing. When my timer on my phone hits 1:45 I turn on my checker and start my c1 test. By the time it's at 2:00 of mixing, I start clearing the bubbles before add c2 pops up so it's ready by the time the checker asks for it. So my checker only says add c2 for 10-20 seconds at most before I start the c2 test. I have consistent test results and no more headache of barely missing the shut off time on the checker. Hope this helps you find peace of mind with your ULR and everyone with the time constraint of this impatient checker.

I contacted Hanna to get their take. They recommend the 2 cuvettes approach for those who have trouble preparing the sample before the automatic shut-off. The guy I talked to said the difference in the glass with the two cuvettes would cause very little difference in the final reading. He said the important thing is the two minute mixing time followed by the 3 minutes in the checker. He said the whole test is geared around those 5 minutes. He also said to invert or lightly shake the cuvette during the 2 minute mixing time (e.g. don't shake hard/fast).

The 2 cuvettes approach eliminates the time issue for me. Also, even when I have completed the test, I have never shook the test sample for more than maybe 1:10 and haven't had time to thoroughly analyze for bubbles when shaking this long. After talking to this guy, I think I'm better off getting everything else exactly right and accepting the fact that using both my cuvettes might insert a very small margin of error.