ammonia presence - what next??

[Lasse]

However - higher temperature - more toxic NH3 in the same NH3/NH4 concentration

Sincerely Lasse

 

[whereisdani_r]

Could bump your temp up a bit. 74 is a tad low.

Bumped it! It’s at about 76 now.

Update for all you, definitely no ammonia, everyone is doing great!

 

[whereisdani_r]

However - higher temperature - more toxic NH3 in the same NH3/NH4 concentration

Sincerely Lasse

Put it at 76 per the suggestion, should I lower it again?

 

[brandon429]

its super clean great job

 

[Cell]

Put it at 76 per the suggestion, should I lower it again?

Not necessary if your system is ammonia free as any cycled tank should be.

 

[brandon429]

I run my reefs at 78 degrees its just perfect temp. your animals were kept alive due to there being no ammonia, a temp diff of a few degrees isn't the swing vote although it may affect testers agreed.

 

[brandon429]

Ammonia presence conflict salifert vs fluval

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/f...which-do-i-believe.622299/page-2#post-6222715

Titration testing has done more to ruin microbiology understanding in the reef tank hobby than anything ever presented to the hobby.

Titration testing errors cause full on bacterial doubt where it is never ever warranted. Why any reefer accepts a non digital reading as accurate for any param is amazing

We don’t need testing to control ammonia, even fancy digital testing not required.

 

[Dom]

Question: Was it LIVE rock (was it in a tank of water when you purchased it) or was it DRY rock (usually kept in a bin from which you can pick pieces)?

Based on the picture, it looks like DRY rock. Dry rock needs to be cycled before you put it into your display tank.

I like that you have one established piece in the tank. It will help to seed all of the new rock you've added. But unless you've cycled that rock, my experience has been that you will eventually see ridiculous algae blooms. I know; I've made that mistake.

 

[brandon429]

We’re dealing with active bioload, fish n delicate shrimp already in place...they alone close the case on this cycle. They’d be dead in 12-24 hours if the tank wasn’t ready

Agreed based on pics the white portions can’t be visually assessed. We made the call off what the system would do without that portion, it can be factored out of required surface area since the live rock and sand portion was wet prior to use.

Ammonia never ever ever hovers at a small unoxidized percentage like .25 in a reef tank

It either causes quick detectable loss or there is no ammonia. It never hovers at a slight burning amount, bio filtration does not work that way though I keep linking test misread threads that show massive differences causing all kinds of confusion.

Biological cue cycling is cutting edge and apparently beating the total pants off test kit cycling yay

 

[Lasse]

Titration testing has done more to ruin microbiology understanding in the reef tank hobby than anything ever presented to the hobby.

For the book. The normal methods for ammonia testing is not any Titration methods. They are colorometric methods. Exactly the same methods that is used in all Hanna Checkers measurements.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[whereisdani_r]

Question: Was it LIVE rock (was it in a tank of water when you purchased it) or was it DRY rock (usually kept in a bin from which you can pick pieces)?

Based on the picture, it looks like DRY rock. Dry rock needs to be cycled before you put it into your display tank.

I like that you have one established piece in the tank. It will help to seed all of the new rock you've added. But unless you've cycled that rock, my experience has been that you will eventually see ridiculous algae blooms. I know; I've made that mistake.

It was live rock (in water in tank) algae is pretty rough right now but it kind already was before. Another case to crack. Yay!

There was more than one oiece of established totaled rough 15 lb the off color is the “new” 3lb live rock, about 3 weeks in.