Peace River
Thrive Master
Staff member
Super Moderator
Reef Squad
Reef Squad Leader
Partner Member 2024
Excellence Award
Article Contributor
Hospitality Award
Article Administrator
Reef Pumpkin Carver
Welcome to Reef2Reef! As others have said, please tell us more about your tank and your test kit.
Upvote
0
- Joined
- May 20, 2020
- Messages
- 8,352
- Reaction score
- 45,563
Welcome aboard, giving as much info as you can will help folks help you.
Good luck!!!
Good luck!!!
Upvote
0
lafarrow
Active Member
I use salifert. Here is the thread for you:
www.reef2reef.com
Best ammonia test kit
Would like to get some feedback from our members regarding which ammonia test kit and/or colorimeter is your "go-to". If we get enough input, it would be nice to also add a poll at the top. TIA
www.reef2reef.com
Upvote
0
All test kits suck .. especially Ammonia since Hanna hasn't made a digital checker for marine water yet.
I agree with @Jekyl ... take a sample to your LFS and get them to test it and compare with what you are getting.
As for a direct answer to your question, small amounts of ammonia (<0.02 ppm) are normal. I would start to investigate if the level hits 0.05 ppm.
However, anything less than 0.1 ppm won't harm your fish.
Check this out for the definitive answer:
I agree with @Jekyl ... take a sample to your LFS and get them to test it and compare with what you are getting.
As for a direct answer to your question, small amounts of ammonia (<0.02 ppm) are normal. I would start to investigate if the level hits 0.05 ppm.
However, anything less than 0.1 ppm won't harm your fish.
Check this out for the definitive answer:
Upvote
0
I would also add this: because you have a months-old tank with fish, we already know without any test kit whatsoever that your ammonia is fully controlled and in the thousandths ppm currently.
Colombo mode-
if your tank wasn’t cycled you’d report dead fish not a test reading.
if you lacked sufficient surface area to run nh3 at levels fish adapted to you couldn't have made this long. all animals in veterinary science have a very precise tightly controlled upper limit for nh3 before the animal becomes lethargic and soon expires.
all cycled display tanks (qt tanks don’t count they run minimal surface area) run the same ammonia range, thousandths ppm, and none vary. It’s so precise that you don’t have to buy new test kits for ammonia now or in the future. All cycled displays run the same ammonia we just convince ourselves otherwise by owning different kits that aren’t very accurate at low range detection. Every rule set the hobby uses to predict ammonia dynamics in a cycled reef is wrong, our concepts (that different tanks control ammonia differently) are fully wrong, and based on thirty years of test misreads.
we know you have sufficient surface area because those fish have been kept alive this long, they’d be dead if you lacked surface area. Activated surface area does the same thing tank to tank, it doesn’t vary.
seneye owners however know what’s really going on...and they know the universal unity range all cycled tanks run at. any condition that causes a true nh3 issue can be quickly spotted as its ramping up, no test needed. the tank will look like an animal with no kidney function, wiped out.
I bet a full tank shot of this reef shows a reef not wiped out.
Colombo mode-
if your tank wasn’t cycled you’d report dead fish not a test reading.
if you lacked sufficient surface area to run nh3 at levels fish adapted to you couldn't have made this long. all animals in veterinary science have a very precise tightly controlled upper limit for nh3 before the animal becomes lethargic and soon expires.
all cycled display tanks (qt tanks don’t count they run minimal surface area) run the same ammonia range, thousandths ppm, and none vary. It’s so precise that you don’t have to buy new test kits for ammonia now or in the future. All cycled displays run the same ammonia we just convince ourselves otherwise by owning different kits that aren’t very accurate at low range detection. Every rule set the hobby uses to predict ammonia dynamics in a cycled reef is wrong, our concepts (that different tanks control ammonia differently) are fully wrong, and based on thirty years of test misreads.
we know you have sufficient surface area because those fish have been kept alive this long, they’d be dead if you lacked surface area. Activated surface area does the same thing tank to tank, it doesn’t vary.
seneye owners however know what’s really going on...and they know the universal unity range all cycled tanks run at. any condition that causes a true nh3 issue can be quickly spotted as its ramping up, no test needed. the tank will look like an animal with no kidney function, wiped out.
I bet a full tank shot of this reef shows a reef not wiped out.
Last edited:
Upvote
0
Similar threads
