Angry Upgrade 120 to 230 Peninsula!

Discussion in 'Member Tanks' started by AngryOwl, Aug 15, 2018.

  1. AngryOwl

    AngryOwl Angry R2R Supporter Build Thread Contributor

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    Welcome to the build!(up-to-date as of 3/22/19)

    Background:
    Living in Katy, TX, I use to own a standard 120g tank (48x24x24) that was up for about a little over a year. This was my first tank so my experience in keeping a reef/fish is over a year now :cool:. I've learned some things along the way. The biggest lesson being to get what you want the first time and take it slow! The past tank was one impulsive buy after the next, which all started with this tank and resulted in probably a few grand of wasted money (debt) and dead corals. So it's time to hit the reset button, get what I want and take it slow!

    Old Tank (120g):
    • 120g (48x24x24) with dual overflow boxes :mad:
    • Trigger systems Emerald 39 sump
    • 6 bulb ATI T5 light fixture (rewired to have 2 channels)(was using the 48" reefbreeders photonV2, will be selling it)
    • Skimz SM161 Skimmer
    • Santa Monica Rain2 Algae Scrubber
    • 1 Gyre 250
    • 1 Jabeo pp8
    • Tunze 3155 ATO
    • Scaped with BRS dry pukani rock (cured in bleach for 1 week or so)(looks like you can't even buy this stuff anymore)
    The tank sits on a DIY stand with a canopy for the lights.

    Livestock:
    • Male Blue Throat Tigger
    • Flame Angel
    • 1 BulletHole Clown (female) & 1 Wyoming White (male)
    • Magnificent Foxface
    • Female Leopard Wrasse
    • Linetus Fairy Wrasse
    • Pair of diamond spot gobies (aka: trouble makers)
    • Pair of Cleaner Shrimp
    • Pair of Mocha Davinci Clowns
    • Gold Midas Blenny
    ps: I have a nano tank with a pair of mocha davinci clowns... I love this pair... question is how successful will I be if I try to add them to the new tank at the same time as the old pair?

    Why I hate this tank:

    Number 1 reason I hated this tank with a passion is the dual overflow boxes. When I ordered the tank I just kind of assumed they would be placed in the corners of the tank... which IMO if your going to have overflow boxes, that's where they should be. But no, they're right in the freakin middle. They're ugly and take up space for aquascaping, ruining the depth of the tank and additional swimming space for the fish, lastly creating flow dead spots.

    I also hated the limitations I have with my desired fish list and I am not a fan of the stand I built or plumbing. Everything was rushed and if I did more research I would have did things different and included handy little features (like a space for electrical equipment). I guess this sums most of it up.


    Moving On to Bigger Things:

    Current Tank (230g):

    • 230g (72x30x25) Planet Aquarium peninsula
    • Trigger Systems Emerald 39 Sump
    • ATI 8 bulb T5 fixture running giesemann bulbs (4 actinic blue, 2 super actinic, 1 purple, 1 azure blue)
    • (2) 72" SB Reefbars
    • Skimz SM161 Skimmer
    • (2) gyre 250's
    • Varios 8 Return Pump
    • Tunze 3155 ATO
    • 20g ATO container.
    • Coralife twist 18w UV sterilizer
    • BRS dual reactor (running carbon only)
    • Haitian Rock
    Livestock:
    • Male Blue Throat Tigger
    • Flame Angel
    • 1 BulletHole Clown (female) & 1 Wyoming White (male)
    • Magnificent Foxface
    • Female Leopard Wrasse
    • Linetus Fairy Wrasse
    • Pair of diamond spot gobies (aka: trouble makers)
    • Pair of Cleaner Shrimp
    • Pair of Mocha Davinci Clowns
    • Gold Midas Blenny

    The Tank features a shadow overflow box and edge guard seams (so you don't have to worry about your magnet cleaner ruining your seams). The stand is a custom DIY plywood 40" tall stand so there is no bending over when viewing the tank. PS: I'm short af 5'4.... ;Shifty terrible genes...

    Wrap Up:

    I think this mostly covers the old vs new setups... There is plenty of content within this build to go through including pictures, Angry rants, and videos! Enjoy the build and let me know you stopped by!

    You can also check out my YouTube channel.. Link to my Channel here.

    The 230g tank arrives starting on page 9.

    Let me know all of your questions, suggestions, thoughts!
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2019

  2. AngryOwl

    AngryOwl Angry R2R Supporter Build Thread Contributor

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    OLD TANK (120):

    Stand in Progress:
    20170705_231547.jpg
    Finished Stand & Canopy:
    20171105_181628.jpg
    Rescape picture:
    20180112_202334.jpg
    Different angle of rescape:
    20180112_184753.jpg
    Last Full Tank shot I took which is from April. All of the SPS you see died except for the purple piece in the center...
    20180425_194005.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2018
  3. norfolkgarden

    norfolkgarden Valuable Member R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Partner Member 2019

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    Take it slow.
    (He says as he contemplates another visit to the LFS "just to see what they have new.")

    If you are using mostly brand new rock I would start "fishless" cycling it in a brute tank for the next month with a power head.
    Definitely add at least a small rock from your current tank to jumpstart it.
    Dry rock takes *forever* to stabilize after the initial cycle. Ours took about 4 months before it was covered in green grey algae and then purple coralline.
    I don't remember the live rock taking that long.

    Sounds like a beautiful build.
    Looking forward to seeing it come together.
     
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  4. AngryOwl

    AngryOwl Angry R2R Supporter Build Thread Contributor

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    ;Hilarious
    There is no such thing as just looking! I always leave with something... for me since I've been having problems keeping SPS, I go for the $5 frags "just to see if they make it". I'm excited for this build! I think you're spot on about curing the rock during a fishless cycle while I wait... I mean why not? But I was also considering using the pond matrix in my current sump and transferring that to the new tank as well... thoughts on this? The only reason I am hesitant is because if there is any "disease" contained in that media, it would now be in the new tank as well...
     
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  5. norfolkgarden

    norfolkgarden Valuable Member R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Partner Member 2019

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    I still haven't learned enough lessons about not quarantining fish.

    That is going to be my next salt water addition is a decent 20 gallon quarantine tank.

    Do you have any issues at all with your current tank?
     
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  6. AngryOwl

    AngryOwl Angry R2R Supporter Build Thread Contributor

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    I do have a couple of QT systems, a 20g and 10g, haven't been used in months because no new additions...

    No problem with fish disease in my tank that I can see. I was more speaking about corals. Right now the issues I have with my tank is cyano and murdering SPS... I've been trying a entirely new approach recently and see results though, I'll outline that more soon!
     
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  7. Antics

    Antics Valuable Member R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award R2R Secret Santa Hospitality Award Build Thread Contributor

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    How are you planning to do your returns? I see your current tank has a canopy. Will the new tank have a canopy? I have a 48" peninsula and I really think you should consider doing the returns through the canopy if you aren't already. I think a lot of people default to having the returns coming off the same side as where you drilled your overflow, but if you have a canopy you can run that plumbing and keep it hidden and have the water flowing fully from the end of the tank to the overflow. I think this is ideal on a tank especially at 6'.

    Just my 2 cents!
     
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  8. AngryOwl

    AngryOwl Angry R2R Supporter Build Thread Contributor

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    Sweet looking tank you have! I think I know what you're saying and the guy at the LFS was saying the same thing... pretty much to have the return lines run in the canopy and have a PVC pipe running the length on each side with maybe 3 return nozzles down the length of the tank. But my plan is to put my gyre 250 at the end of the tank.

    New tank will have a canopy, I flirted with the thought of a floating canopy but I do not want any light bleed in my living room.
     
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  9. Antics

    Antics Valuable Member R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award R2R Secret Santa Hospitality Award Build Thread Contributor

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    Yeah, if you're willing to put Gyres on that end of your tank its fine. I think the canopy return style is best for people who don't want ANYTHING on the viewable panels of the tank. It's just an aesthetic choice more than functionality or tank health. I did my returns off the back of the tank (with the overflow) but if I did it again I'd run them through a canopy and keep my Vortech's on the back to offset the return flow just to keep the other three sides empty. Also makes cleaning the glass a little easier! :p
     
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  10. AngryOwl

    AngryOwl Angry R2R Supporter Build Thread Contributor

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    FTS as of today: 20180815_173807.jpg

    Sump:
    20180815_173829.jpg

    And lastly my side project, water storage/change station:
    20180815_173953.jpg

    Two 55g storage tanks, top plumbed for rodi. Valve on the right allows me to place a bucket under the pipe to fill for my ATO. Bottom will be where I mix salt. Just need a pump to put the bottom together.
     
  11. AngryOwl

    AngryOwl Angry R2R Supporter Build Thread Contributor

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    I completely agree! I just don't mind having the gyre on that end, it has a low profile and will sit up high not obstructing my view. On the other end I plan to have probably my pp8's towards the bottom for flow down lower. However, I might consider the vortech pumps to keep the cords out of that side of the tank. Plenty of time to consider that though ;Hilarious
     
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  12. xaflatoonx

    xaflatoonx Well-Known Member Build Thread Contributor

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    Hey Angryowl - Also a katy resident right here.. ..
    following your build to see how you do your stand. Good luck and love the dimensions of your new tank.
     
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  13. AngryOwl

    AngryOwl Angry R2R Supporter Build Thread Contributor

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    Sweet! I'm in Raintree village. Plan for the stand is plywood, as you can see the old stand is a standard 2x4 military grade overkill stand ;Hilarious Super heavy as well. I saw someone selling a 210g tank 72x24x30 and I didn't like those dimensions, especially for a peninsula style tank. I hope you enjoy what I come up with ;Nailbiting
     
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  14. xaflatoonx

    xaflatoonx Well-Known Member Build Thread Contributor

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    I am on the other side of 99 in Pine Mill Ranch.

    A plywood stand will be better for that big of a tank? i always thought for a tank that size the 2x4s are necessary.

    but hey - as long as it works.

    I cant wait to see progress on your project. Good luck bud and takes LOTS AND LOTS AND LOTS of pics.
     
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  15. AngryOwl

    AngryOwl Angry R2R Supporter Build Thread Contributor

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    So after a lot of research, plywood stands are plenty strong enough for even bigger tanks! The standard 2x4 concept really just adds a lot of unnecessary weight and not much additional support. I mean look at my stand, standard 2x4 frame (top is actually 2x6 so I didn't have to use a vertical brace in the middle of the doors)... then I wrapped it in 3/4" plywood. Thing is a tank and super clunky.

    If you look at the stands they sell tanks with at the LFS they're wrapped with thin plywood and the frame is typically 1x2's. These stands are made like this for huge tanks. 3/4" plywood is inherently stronger, especially when constructed in the right way.

    In my design you will see the use of a 2x6 header and 2x4 vertical supports where I will place doors for sump access. The only reason I am including these is because I want a wide opening for sump access and if I ever needed to swap it out.

    I hope this makes sense, if not, you'll see with lots and lots and lots of pics :p
     
  16. xaflatoonx

    xaflatoonx Well-Known Member Build Thread Contributor

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    hahah - thanks man... following - and waiting.

    i think pictures will definitely put things in perspective.

    i am currently debating between the following two sizes

    72x36x24
    or
    84x30x24

    Lighting being the main pain in the a** with 7 ft tanks...
    but more room is always better.

    lets see how things go.
     
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  17. AngryOwl

    AngryOwl Angry R2R Supporter Build Thread Contributor

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    Oceanlife Aquariums has an 84x36x30 I think? Something like that, I can get you the exact dimensions later if you're interested. They said its $2500, brand new.
     
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  18. count krunk

    count krunk Well-Known Member Build Thread Contributor

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    upload_2018-8-16_12-43-46.png
    I can see why you're angry all the time ;).

    Obvs out of the picture now, but you could always take down the 120g (put livestock in a temp home like a big rubber maid) remove the overflows, plug the holes, drill new holes on the back for any sort of overflow. a nice wide 18-24" would be awesome! Use the slim front box, fat back box and bam! new tank :)
     
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  19. AngryOwl

    AngryOwl Angry R2R Supporter Build Thread Contributor

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    Excellent suggestion! I would like to make a few modifications to it though. Take down the 120, put all the livestock into the new 210, take the 120 outside and smash it to pieces ;Hilarious

    But seriously that is a legit suggestion but I was always looking to upgrade to a bigger tank anyways, this just provides me an excuse :p

    I'm glad you understand where my anger comes from now :mad:
     
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  20. vetteguy53081

    vetteguy53081 Well known Member R2R Supporter Partner Member 2019 Reef Tank 365 R2R Secret Santa Article Contributor Hospitality Award Build Thread Contributor

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    12" more- go for the 84" as you will not regret the extra room as you build your system
     
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