Finally upgrading from a 2-year established 40 gal non-drilled breeder (no sump). New setup is a 75 Gal Innovative Marine with internal overflow and Trigger Systems Triton 26 Sump. Wasn't a fan with the old aquascape, so building a more negative space aquascape using new marco rock. 40 Gal is moved to a new location, so no rush to move from old to new tank. Will be using new sand as well. However, trying to get to as close to insta-tank as possible. Can definitely canibalize live rock from old tank temporarily if it helps. How would you handle the move?
Another "upgrading tank" question
- Thread starter AtisE
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We just kicked up a thread in this forum called the sand rinse thread, about half the jobs are tank upgrades, the other half are invasion fixes. Exact same procedure, we rinse sand in tap water until it’s clear and then RO water, and then it’s ready for use in a new tank with the old rocks
we have many examples on file, one will match your job for sure lemme know if you have detail questions after reading the first post explaining the takedown order of ops, and the last five pages which are a nice summary of all the jobs in between
standout details: ramp up new tank lighting dont go full power, and you will not be low on bacteria in these jobs the real risk is waste clouding in rocks or sand, the detritus is what kills new tank transfers so our whole thread is custom 100% detritus removal during the cleaning phase. If you set up cloudless materials in new tank, it won’t mini cycle.
we have many examples on file, one will match your job for sure lemme know if you have detail questions after reading the first post explaining the takedown order of ops, and the last five pages which are a nice summary of all the jobs in between
standout details: ramp up new tank lighting dont go full power, and you will not be low on bacteria in these jobs the real risk is waste clouding in rocks or sand, the detritus is what kills new tank transfers so our whole thread is custom 100% detritus removal during the cleaning phase. If you set up cloudless materials in new tank, it won’t mini cycle.
Was contemplating building my own sump, but just didn't want to mess with it in the end. Wanted a refugium for sure. Going back and forth on lights still. Currently have two Prime HDs which have been great for me. Will either add another or switch entirely to Radeon, but leaning towards just getting a third. Skimmer is the Reef Octopus Regal 150 int. I'm doing my best to keep the tank as silent as possible since it's in the living room.
Official Sand Rinse and Tank Transfer thread
If you are reading this thread to cure a tank invasion from a link I sent you, we do not need to identify your type of invasion here we do not need you to test anything at anytime regarding nitrate, phosphate etc Above all, we do not need to see a microscope slide picture of your invasion at...
www.reef2reef.com
It had fallen down, many busy posts today!
hey if you'll post a current tank pic, from those small details we can customize the move right here save 40 pgs reading. we need more work jobs, sandbed surgery is really fun and quite dangerous to attempt without some practice in place. its easy to pull off though if we know ahead of time that cleaning up can never remove the bacteria we need to filter, cleaning up the reef before re assembly is how we move $ there and never lose a single one.
when people try and move over waste out of concern of harming bac, that's when the losses come about.
an outlier-free thread is handy for proofing. people get away with all kinds of safe zone info in reefing but not with disassembly threads, $ is on the line live time and that makes these the most fun threads.
*I recommend the last page, recent entry PSU4ME's post and pic summary. that's the entire job in easy flow.
when people try and move over waste out of concern of harming bac, that's when the losses come about.
an outlier-free thread is handy for proofing. people get away with all kinds of safe zone info in reefing but not with disassembly threads, $ is on the line live time and that makes these the most fun threads.
*I recommend the last page, recent entry PSU4ME's post and pic summary. that's the entire job in easy flow.
So was out of town for a bit, but back at this project now. The final new aquascape is complete. Attached is a picture of the old tank and the new tank. Looking to use 40 pounds of new special grade sand. The old sand keeps blowing around. Any suggestions before I do a deep dive into the thread?
lets save the read that's a high needs job above let's customize it here. Love it, that's a nice reef we're moving.
**you are going to want to dive into Tuffloud's thread though*
because it shows how changing from matured system to cycled + immature systems are likely to fare.
allows prediction of the uglies phase and how the nutrients work to avoid bleaching in the new system.
Tuffloud does essentially what you want to do above.
*I have these questions before we begin live surgery lol
are you using any of the old rocks inline in the new tank at all
if not, nbd a cycled new tank is still cycled. has to do with nutrient preps.
for sure we will want to re-ramp up LEDs in the new tank as if they're totally new that new light burn is a thing we watch out for.
here's tuffloud's thread, to any degree you are relying on dry rocks brought up and cycled to carry your corals this thread applies.
We will have 0 problems skip cycling the new setup, its the color tuning, dinos prevention and nutrient works he shows us to watch out for.
**you are going to want to dive into Tuffloud's thread though*
because it shows how changing from matured system to cycled + immature systems are likely to fare.
allows prediction of the uglies phase and how the nutrients work to avoid bleaching in the new system.
Tuffloud does essentially what you want to do above.
*I have these questions before we begin live surgery lol
are you using any of the old rocks inline in the new tank at all
if not, nbd a cycled new tank is still cycled. has to do with nutrient preps.
for sure we will want to re-ramp up LEDs in the new tank as if they're totally new that new light burn is a thing we watch out for.
here's tuffloud's thread, to any degree you are relying on dry rocks brought up and cycled to carry your corals this thread applies.
We will have 0 problems skip cycling the new setup, its the color tuning, dinos prevention and nutrient works he shows us to watch out for.
Here we are. Tuffloud's reference work thread. matured system surgically removed after the new all dry system was cycled.
you then see his all new system go down (invasions/white rock expectations) then back up to gtg.
www.reef2reef.com
we want to mimic about 98% of that thread on yours if Im not mistaken.
as a side note we were using his thread to prove that reef tank water has transmissible cycling bacteria sloughed off in water.
We need to pre rinse whatever sand you use so its cloudless, and in that rinse handling you'll see the characters of the sand and how it deals with strong flow.
caribsea ocean direct special grade is a common one used, not oolite and even the fiji pink gets moved around a lot threads show.
tap pre rinse the sand as long as it takes to start the new tank with 100% cloudless sand, rock and water. we do not need the sandbed bacteria from the old tank, or the wet bac from the bag here. We need cloudlessness.
you then see his all new system go down (invasions/white rock expectations) then back up to gtg.
Connecting Established Reef To New Tank
EDIT: In conclusion, if using the method I did - connecting an established reef to a new system with dry rock (clean), I recommend the following: 1. Dose your new tank prior to connecting to your old tank with NO3 and PO4 enough to raise to your established tank levels. 2. Take your skimmer...
www.reef2reef.com
we want to mimic about 98% of that thread on yours if Im not mistaken.
as a side note we were using his thread to prove that reef tank water has transmissible cycling bacteria sloughed off in water.
We need to pre rinse whatever sand you use so its cloudless, and in that rinse handling you'll see the characters of the sand and how it deals with strong flow.
caribsea ocean direct special grade is a common one used, not oolite and even the fiji pink gets moved around a lot threads show.
tap pre rinse the sand as long as it takes to start the new tank with 100% cloudless sand, rock and water. we do not need the sandbed bacteria from the old tank, or the wet bac from the bag here. We need cloudlessness.
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Started to read through Tuffloud's thread. Thanks! I'm planning on keeping a few rocks from the old system. I can even bring most of them over and keep them in the back for a time to minimize the cycle time. You think that would work?
that will be independent to basic ammonia control. If you fill that new tank as-is with sw set to temp and salinity ready, then dump in a bottle of refrigerated fritz from the pet store, a pinch of fish food, and several drops of ammonia for cycling, and let that stew 5days, you are cycled in the main tank
carrying over the live rock from the back is very ideal for coral feed support, food web support, bleaching prevention and pod carry over but we could have handled your whole fish and coral loading on day 5 in the new setup easy as pie.
with this blended method, you'll have both a cycled new tank able to stand on its own, and then hardy rocks moved over and this will minimize some of the shocks Tuff's system endured.
he carried over no new rocks, it was truly a massive job. Thats a long term reference thread for me above.
carrying over the live rock from the back is very ideal for coral feed support, food web support, bleaching prevention and pod carry over but we could have handled your whole fish and coral loading on day 5 in the new setup easy as pie.
with this blended method, you'll have both a cycled new tank able to stand on its own, and then hardy rocks moved over and this will minimize some of the shocks Tuff's system endured.
he carried over no new rocks, it was truly a massive job. Thats a long term reference thread for me above.
So back again with some updates. New sand, aquascape, sw, and temp is all in. Put in some Dr. Tim's ammonia and "one and only" last night. Ammonia read 2ppm. Now just wait five days, get a 0ppm ammonia reading and press on moving over rocks from old tank or follow the fishless cycle?
Dr Tim’s is closer to ten days time but that’s for bringing up dry rocks to handle a bioload alone, the living materials here are about to carry the current fish loading fine
the challenges coming are from curing white rock, low bacterial diversity (though diversity isn’t required to control simple waste ammonia) substrates in the presence of corals used to a prior stasis. Waiting five to ten days here won’t make a difference much considering the relocation portion. If you pre rinsed your sand to cloudless status that will help upcoming challenges, and if not pre rinsed that’s not a huge deal most skip that step as well.
the challenges coming are from curing white rock, low bacterial diversity (though diversity isn’t required to control simple waste ammonia) substrates in the presence of corals used to a prior stasis. Waiting five to ten days here won’t make a difference much considering the relocation portion. If you pre rinsed your sand to cloudless status that will help upcoming challenges, and if not pre rinsed that’s not a huge deal most skip that step as well.
I gotcha. So things in my donor tank are all headed downhill at the moment. I overdosed kalkwasser about 10 days ago which increased my ph from 8.1 to 9.1 within an hour. The alk swings have been another challenge since bouncing back and forth between kalkwasser and 2-part and doser issues.
What I'm wondering is if I should try taking the larger existing rocks that don't have coral on them out from the 40 gallon and placing them in the new tank to see if I can shave a few days off the cycling process. Good idea or terrible one?
What I'm wondering is if I should try taking the larger existing rocks that don't have coral on them out from the 40 gallon and placing them in the new tank to see if I can shave a few days off the cycling process. Good idea or terrible one?
Agreed those will seed the inactive surfaces and not die off in the new tank, param changes like that arent antibacterial but they’re coral irritating so its ok at this stage
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