Any Ford Techs Here?

SteveMM62Reef

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Okay, I’m asking this question here, because it‘s killing me for time on my 120 Build. My Wife’s 2006 Monterey Van, has Rear Heat/AC, with Blend Door Actuator problems. The Old Actuator, wasn’t working, motor was fine, 12 volts Drove it. Potentiometer had Zero Ohms on it, cleaned, and re- lubed with di-electric grease, worked some of the time. I replaced it. Still works some of the time. How does the dash controller work? Where is the Potentiometer Feedback Receiver in the Dash? BTW, The switch works, as the Cooling Heating Indicator Bars, move. The Blend a door is free, not hanging up. My Ford Repair Site, was no help! Dealer is no help, and won’t work on this. Said, parts no longer available?!?
 
This sound dumb, but try the nissan forums for a quest of the same year. I know they are basically the same and most nissan owners are more active on forums.
 
Okay, I’m asking this question here, because it‘s killing me for time on my 120 Build. My Wife’s 2006 Monterey Van, has Rear Heat/AC, with Blend Door Actuator problems. The Old Actuator, wasn’t working, motor was fine, 12 volts Drove it. Potentiometer had Zero Ohms on it, cleaned, and re- lubed with di-electric grease, worked some of the time. I replaced it. Still works some of the time. How does the dash controller work? Where is the Potentiometer Feedback Receiver in the Dash? BTW, The switch works, as the Cooling Heating Indicator Bars, move. The Blend a door is free, not hanging up. My Ford Repair Site, was no help! Dealer is no help, and won’t work on this. Said, parts no longer available?!?
Think there is an R2R member that is one based on his login name @((FORDTECH))
 
Lol I thought the same thing. I saw the post.......I work on cars occasionally....I will be able to help. Yeah, No.

Same lol. This sounds like an annoying problem to fix. If it still works "some of the time" I would just enjoy the good days and keep working on the 120 build :grimacing-face:
 
Possible split or burnt up wire leading to actuator worked sometimes due to min electrical current. When replacing it could have torn the rest of the way can you trace wires back to control switch on center dash.
 
Former Ford senior master here. The Monterey was a fancy Freestar. The older villager was the Nissan Quest. Anyhow the module that controls all of the front is the EATC module. It is the control head that you push the buttons on. The module that controls the back is the smart junction box (what we used to call a fuse box but now it has a module built in)
 
Ohm the wires out, didn’t detect a break. I Retired after 45 years in Commercial HVAC, have my Master License in MD, reminds me of the Old Wheatstone Bridge, Hot and Cold Deck, before Computerized Controls. Also it’s my WIFE, who is my worst customer.
 
All your rear controls and actuator feedback goes to the smart junction box. It would be really nice if you could get your hands on a bidirectional scan tool. A ford dealer should be able to handle this. They are just being lazy
 
Have you checked all fuses i know there is multiple. I am sure you have. Is the module showing current or detecting any. When trying to actuate. Does motor try to actuate but doesnt move? Little more info please. Does air function at all? Is it hot or cold?
 
The temp signal from the control to the SJB is a PWM signal. You can check that with a decent multimeter. If it is intermittent it might just be the door sticking and amperage going up. Module sees that and shuts it down. When you unplug everything to test it resets.
 
Lol I thought the same thing. I saw the post.......I work on cars occasionally....I will be able to help. Yeah, No.
Me too my second job after my apprenticeship was in a Ford main dealer OK we're in the UK but a Ford is a Ford right?

But then reading your post it became obvious that was 28 years ago :oops: how time flies while I've been watching my reef tank :grimacing-face:

Wish I could be more help but it was like reading Chinese for me

confused chris geere GIF by You're The Worst
 

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