Anyone know why this is happening?

jacobcoral

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I got this jawbreaker about two weeks ago and about a week ago it started to curl up. It’s not attached to a frag plug. It’s attached to some shells. I was thinking about putting it on a plug. Everything else in my tank looks absolutely amazing except the jaw breake. I assumed it was getting too much light so I moved it where the rock gives more shade.

IMG_1231.jpeg
 
Flow?
Par?
Tank parameters?
 
I find mine took quite a while to acclimate to my tank. Once it did it kept dropping babies.

But it looks completely in the shade, I would put it back in the light and leave it alone.
 
my Hanna checker read zero a few days ago, they typically stay low in my tank. Any idea how to get them to where they need to be? I think they should stay around .05
I dose NeoPhos at the moment, but there's plenty of other ways to deal with this.
 
agreed with the above responses, probably need to dose phosphate to get it detectable but that probably isn't the main issue. Possible it's trying to adapt to it's new environment. I would keep in low in the tank but make sure it is getting light, then just wait it out.

The low phosphates can lead to "starving" your corals and nuisance algae..
 
agreed with the above responses, probably need to dose phosphate to get it detectable but that probably isn't the main issue. Possible it's trying to adapt to it's new environment. I would keep in low in the tank but make sure it is getting light, then just wait it out.

The low phosphates can lead to "starving" your corals and nuisance algae..
I though phosphates caused algae? Ill have to test it when I get home from class an let yk
 
I though phosphates caused algae? Ill have to test it when I get home from class an let yk
they do.. but there is a balance, roughly 16:1 NO3 to PO4. If your nitrates are high and phosphates are undetectable it can lead to a bacterial imbalance, which can cause cyanobacteria, dinoflagellates, etc. Also, corals use both nitrate and phosphate for building the tissue/skeletons. If they are out of balance it can slow/impede growth as well as cause "pastel" colors - think ultra low nutrient zeovit type coloration. Look up the Redfield ratio, it should help to describe this a bit more. I dont shoot for matching 16:1 but I do try to keep my nitrates around 7 ppm and phosphates around .15-.18 ppm.. I find if my numbers drop too much below this all my red and yellow sps turn to pink and green pretty quickly.
 
they do.. but there is a balance, roughly 16:1 NO3 to PO4. If your nitrates are high and phosphates are undetectable it can lead to a bacterial imbalance, which can cause cyanobacteria, dinoflagellates, etc. Also, corals use both nitrate and phosphate for building the tissue/skeletons. If they are out of balance it can slow/impede growth as well as cause "pastel" colors - think ultra low nutrient zeovit type coloration. Look up the Redfield ratio, it should help to describe this a bit more. I dont shoot for matching 16:1 but I do try to keep my nitrates around 7 ppm and phosphates around .15-.18 ppm.. I find if my numbers drop too much below this all my red and yellow sps turn to pink and green pretty quickly.
i only have zoas and torches and they all look good to me. Ill look into it.
 

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