APEX CONTROLLED MIXING STATION

[SAMS]

I need some inspiration please as to how people have laid out their apex controlled mixing stations.


I was looking at having 2 outlets from my RO unit to fill up an RO reservoir and a saltwater mixing reservoir.
Each outlet would have an apex solenoid valve that would be used in conjuction with the optical sensor with magnetic mount.
So I am able to independently fill each reservoir.
I was also looking at having a solenoid valve on the incoming water supply to my RODI unit.
And am working on putting together some form of TDS controller so there is no chance of not filling the reservoirs with water that is not 0ppm.

I am also looking at hooking a heater up into the saltwater mixing reservoir and some form of powerhead.
I don't fancy buying a return pump to transfer the RO water from the RO reservoir to the saltwater mixing one.


Would my plan work?

 

[TheHarold]

I’m hooking up two TDS meters to my apex this week . Just need one more connector to make it nice- already confirmed that it works. That’ll automate my membrane flushing as well as confirm the TDS is low.

 

[SAMS]

I was looking at putting some form of solenoid valve to autoflush my membrane.

What TDS meter are you using to connect to your apex?

I was looking at some form of TDS controller (either HM Digital or Hanna), I'm just waiting for both of them to come back to me.

I don't want to use the neptune Conductivity probe, as I would prefer to have TDS readings and not microsiemens.

 

[TheHarold]

I was looking at putting some form of solenoid valve to autoflush my membrane.

What TDS meter are you using to connect to your apex?

I was looking at some form of TDS controller (either HM Digital or Hanna), I'm just waiting for both of them to come back to me.

I don't want to use the neptune Conductivity probe, as I would prefer to have TDS readings and not microsiemens.

Im using the Apex ASM module (have to get from Neptune directly) that uses a 0-5v input, along with a microcontroller based TDS meter.

 

[Greybeard]

Don't see why not.

My mixing station is a 60g drum, with a mechanical float valve though with my RODI water flows, and a high level sensor an inch or so above that.

I'm using electric ball valves rather than solenoids. More reliable, IMHO. I use a 2 wire, 120vac valve, with an auto return to closed position on power failure.

So, I say 'GO' to my Apex (push a button), and it opens the fill valve for x hours. When it hits the float valve, it's shut off. If that valve fails, it'd hit the high level switch, which closes the valve and alarms, letting me know that the float valve has failed.

I don't heat my water change water. Barrel is in my sump closet, ambient temp is within a few degrees of the tank, and my 10% weekly changes don't impact tank temp noticeably. No need to heat it.

I don't control my mixing pump, because it's not adding water that kicks off a mixing session, it's adding salt... which is manual. I just turn the pump on then. Generally let it run for a day.

My ATO system works exactly the same... electric ball valve, mechanical float valve, high level sensor. I only open the ball valve for a half hour, twice a day, keeping TDS creep to a minimum. Float valve stops inflow at normal level. High level turns off valve and alarms, letting me know that my ATO float valve has failed.

 

[SAMS]

Don't see why not.

My mixing station is a 60g drum, with a mechanical float valve though with my RODI water flows, and a high level sensor an inch or so above that.

I'm using electric ball valves rather than solenoids. More reliable, IMHO. I use a 2 wire, 120vac valve, with an auto return to closed position on power failure.

So, I say 'GO' to my Apex (push a button), and it opens the fill valve for x hours. When it hits the float valve, it's shut off. If that valve fails, it'd hit the high level switch, which closes the valve and alarms, letting me know that the float valve has failed.

I don't heat my water change water. Barrel is in my sump closet, ambient temp is within a few degrees of the tank, and my 10% weekly changes don't impact tank temp noticeably. No need to heat it.

I don't control my mixing pump, because it's not adding water that kicks off a mixing session, it's adding salt... which is manual. I just turn the pump on then. Generally let it run for a day.

My ATO system works exactly the same... electric ball valve, mechanical float valve, high level sensor. I only open the ball valve for a half hour, twice a day, keeping TDS creep to a minimum. Float valve stops inflow at normal level. High level turns off valve and alarms, letting me know that my ATO float valve has failed.

Will have to look to see if I can find some 220-240VDC ones here in the UK.
I like the double redundancy method.

 

[SAMS]

Im using the Apex ASM module (have to get from Neptune directly) that uses a 0-5v input, along with a microcontroller based TDS meter.

Which microcontroller TDS meter are you looking to use?

 

[TheHarold]

Which microcontroller TDS meter are you looking to use?

TFRobot TDS meter+ arduino nano (w temp sensor) + PWM to analog voltage

 

[SAMS]

Do you have any links at all?

 

[Greybeard]

Will have to look to see if I can find some 220-240VDC ones here in the UK.
I like the double redundancy method.

If you can't find one, get a 24vdc valve, and a small 240vac/24vdc power supply. Should work just fine.

 

[TheHarold]

Do you have any links at all?

Nope. Still a project in progress (proof of concept/testing works but it’s not put together cleanly).

 

[SAMS]

If you can't find one, get a 24vdc valve, and a small 240vac/24vdc power supply. Should work just fine.

SHould be able to source that (fingers crossed).

Thanks for your help.

 

[uninformed]

I'm using electric ball valves rather than solenoids. More reliable, IMHO. I use a 2 wire, 120vac valve, with an auto return to closed position on power failure.

@Greybeard: Where did you a power supply for your valve? I bought one from US Solid, but I’m struggling to find a 9-24V power supply under 2W.

 

[Greybeard]

@Greybeard: Where did you a power supply for your valve? I bought one from US Solid, but I’m struggling to find a 9-24V power supply under 2W.

Had one laying around...

Amazon shows several, search 12VDC 2A Power Supply.

Evidently, I can't do an Amazon link here... the forum software keeps replacing it with some media tag that doesn't work...

100-240V-Transformers-Switching-Applications-Connectors/dp/B077PW5JC3/

There, stick that after amazon.com, and see if it works.

 

[uninformed]

Had one laying around...

Amazon shows several, search 12VDC 2A Power Supply.

Evidently, I can't do an Amazon link here... the forum software keeps replacing it with some media tag that doesn't work...

100-240V-Transformers-Switching-Applications-Connectors/dp/B077PW5JC3/

There, stick that after amazon.com, and see if it works.

Thanks. I just talked to my brother who is wiser in these things. I was looking for one that was LESS than 2W based on the valve specs, not one that would provide that much power. I have one on the way. Thanks for the great idea!

 

[Oberst Hajj]

Nope. Still a project in progress (proof of concept/testing works but it’s not put together cleanly).

Did you ever get this setup cleanly?