Apex Jr and Inkbird ITC layering heater control...

JBKReef

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Hello R2R! I’m working through some fine tuning of my aquarium heating and would like to pick your mind on what is the best option.

I have an Apex Jr, Inkbird ITC-306T heater controller, an Eheim Jager 250Watt TruTemp Heater, and a 500 Watt Titanium Finnex Heater.

My current set up has both heaters plugged into the Inkbird, which is then plugged into the Apex Jr. The Eheim thermostat is set to 80, the Ink Bird is set to 79 (with a two degree cycle I believe), and the Finnex is on as long as the Inkbird has power.

Temp Settings.jpg

I’m experiencing 2 degree swings throughout the day and I believe this is due to how I have layered the heater controllers. Does anyone have experience running a similar set up or could provide me some insights into a better layering and redundancy to close my heater gap?

Temp Swings.jpg

I want to choose the best options for redundancy and safety but not exactly sure how to get there. I think I have all the tools just not the familiarity with the programming.

Thanks for any help you guys have!
 

Js.Aqua.Project

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I know this is probably just my thinking, but I like my tank to be as stable a temp as possible.

I used the "Advanced" type of outlet and set my programming like

Set OFF
Fallback OFF
If Tmp < 78.0 Then ON
If FeedA Then OFF

My temp then stays within .1°F coming on at 77.9°F and off at 78°F. Running this way does turn my heater on and off more often but for shorter durations. I'm using an Eheim Jager set to 80°F to make sure it comes on as soon as it is supplied power.

This is what my probe shows: (The drop to 77.6 would be while I fed last night)
Temp.PNG
 

Neo Jeo

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Can I have it set to turn off if it hits a higher temp like gets stuck on?
 
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JBKReef

JBKReef

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I know this is probably just my thinking, but I like my tank to be as stable a temp as possible.

I used the "Advanced" type of outlet and set my programming like

Set OFF
Fallback OFF
If Tmp < 78.0 Then ON
If FeedA Then OFF

My temp then stays within .1°F coming on at 77.9°F and off at 78°F. Running this way does turn my heater on and off more often but for shorter durations. I'm using an Eheim Jager set to 80°F to make sure it comes on as soon as it is supplied power.

This is what my probe shows: (The drop to 77.6 would be while I fed last night)
Temp.PNG

Some helpful information... I guess a general question... Why would you cut the heater while feeding?
 

Js.Aqua.Project

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So it doesn't heat up the entire sump without the water running then push hot water into the display as it comes back on.

I use FeedA for target feeding corals so it is usually on 40-45 minutes, since my temp probe is in my overflow I don't want it reporting the heater needs to be on during this time. I use FeedB for regular 10 minute feedings and let the heater run during that time.
 

Js.Aqua.Project

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Ahh that's what I was wondering, If the probe was in overflow/display that makes sense.
I also have a virtual outlet that turns everything I need of for water changes. So I can just turn that one switch in Fusion on and my return pumps, skimmer, heater, and power heads all turn off. Here I don't want my heater running because depending on how detailed of a cleaning I do I may have my return pumps off for up to 2 hours (usually just around thirty minutes to an hour while I find algae, detritus, and things to siphon out), and I definitely don't need a big temperature difference in water hitting the display.
 

demonspeedn

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Just out of curiosity, do you need to have Fallback set to off when using a heater controller?
 
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JBKReef

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Just out of curiosity, do you need to have Fallback set to off when using a heater controller?

I would say that depends on your heater itself. Does it have an internal thermostat? I have a finnex heater with no internal thermostat so yes I would set that default to off however the eheim, or another heater attached to the controller I would debate about leaving fallback to on and rely on the secondary control.
 

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