Aqua Japan 120- how would you plumb it?

[badger126]

I recently purchased this tank (although the first one cracked in transport and I had to order another).

Aqua Japan Aquarium Reef PRO 120 Glass Tank, Stand, Sump 48 x 24 x 24

Aqua Japan Aquarium Reef PRO 120 Glass Tank, Stand, Sump 48 x 24 x 24

www.reefh2o.com

It has two 3/4” holes and one 1 1/2” hole in the overflow. As well as two other holes ( I think 1”) in the eurobracing. It also came with a quiet one 5000 pump (1500 gph before head and plumbing loss) and a 25w UV sterilizer. 30gal sump and I may buy a reefmat if I can find one that fits.

Is the 1.5” overflow with a gate valve plus one 3/4 for backup adequate or do I need to use both 3/4 holes for backup and plumb my overflow over the top? What is the most efficient way to plumb in the UV? I’ve been looking at diagrams online but would like any friendly advice on what I may be missing. Thanks!
https://www.reefh2o.com/Aqua_Japan_Aquarium_Reef_PRO_120_Glass_Tank_Stand_p/ss00120.htm

 

[twentyleagues]

3/4 is not enough of a safety factor for overflow prevention i'd use both. Run returns over the back. What a weird set up. 2-1" would make so much more sense with a 3/4" return, or 3-1" bulk heads.....

 

[C_AWOL]

I would cap the return holes on the overflow box/put screens on them and then use all 3 holes in the overflow box for drains (3/4" for primary + secondary and 1.5" for emergency) and run the returns off the euro brace holes

 

[C_AWOL]

Example with a likely similar layout but larger holes. You can run full pvc/flexible or hybrid flex + pvc (one of mine is flex because it's easier to run to the furthest reefmat.)

 

[badger126]

Thanks, I like the idea of using the 1.5” as backup. Is there any benefit to doing 1” from the pump and through the UV, and then splitting to 2 3/4” returns for each corner? Or would you just keep it linear with one return line all the way up?

 

[JNalley]

Thanks, I like the idea of using the 1.5” as backup. Is there any benefit to doing 1” from the pump and through the UV, and then splitting to 2 3/4” returns for each corner? Or would you just keep it linear with one return line all the way up?

Run 1" off the return, split off the UV and the main return, on one side of the split put your UV, a Gate or Ball valve, and a flow meter, then recombine into 1" with the return and another Y, split those off with a T or a Y for 1 x 3/4"

That's the way I'd do it... This way you can run your UV for different things (Low flow for parasites, high flow for algae)

 

[C_AWOL]

Thanks, I like the idea of using the 1.5” as backup. Is there any benefit to doing 1” from the pump and through the UV, and then splitting to 2 3/4” returns for each corner? Or would you just keep it linear with one return line all the way up?

I run 2 returns on mine (not sure if your 2 3/4" full siphons can handle that depending on gph of each pump) but I would keep all the return plumbing at 1" if able since thats what you said the euro bracing holes are. The benefit of doing 1" all around is less back pressure which hurts (an assumed) dc pump a lot more than ac pumps

Assuming you have enough room in the back or under the stand, you're better off making a manifold from your return pump than running it full force through the uv for more optimal flow rates (less for algae or protozoans) that way theres less back pressure from the all water running awkardly (in a directional sense) through the entire uv