Aqua UV 25 Watt Sterilizer Flow Recommendation

[Jax15]

Hey Folks,

A few months ago I purchased and installed an Aqua UV 25w sterilizer. It's supposed to be a top notch brand. I hard plumbed it in all nicely using my return pump manifold (Reef Octo 8) and an Apex flow sensor. My problem is that the max flow I can get is 175 GPH. I emailed Aqua UV and they told me that for a reef tank specifically it should be 800 GPH for protozoa, and closer to 1200 GPH for algae etc. They also told me that flow lower than 800 GPH can actually cause damage and degradation to beneficial cells/life etc. The person I spoke with seemed quite sure about this.

I was shocked by how much flow they recommend... and now I've been all freaked out and haven't been using it. I'm debating putting a dedicated Vectra S1 pump on it just to get that crazy high amount of flow, but it seems almost ridiculous. In videos BRS recommended much lower rates/closer to what I have (few hundred gph).

Has anyone used this specific sterilizer? A similar 25w sterilizer? What flow did you have? Any results, positive or negative?

Thanks

 

[Waters]

If it means anything, I have read that the Apex flow sensors read much lower than the actual GPH that is being pushed through them. I don't have one though so I cannot confirm. I actually run my Lifegard Aquatics 40w UV with a second pump that sits in my sump.

 

[Jax15]

Bump -

curious to know what other people run their 25w UV at? Especially if an AquaUV.

 

[kyley]

Bump -

curious to know what other people run their 25w UV at? Especially if an AquaUV.

I have the same UV (25 watt classic in a 120g tank), and I received the same advice direct from AquaUV. But reefers on here mostly told me to stay in the 400 GPH range (some even said lower) - see my post where I was asking the same question as you. I'm no expert myself; just sharing what I have heard.

You may also want to read this post.

It also depends on what you're using the UV for. Apparently for fish diseases (Ich), you want it in that lower range. For cyano/dinos/etc, you may want it higher. Cheers,
--Kyle

 

[psumms]

As above, UV to tackle and algae and disease are quite different. For water clarity, at 25w I think you'll be looking at somewhere between 250 and 400 GPH - but your UV manufacturer may have better info on that.

If you're looking to tackle disease, this is from a really helpful guy called Tony at D-D:
(Original post https://www.theaquariumsolution.com/uv-flow-rate-question).

First we need to take the stock flow rate of 2000l per hour , the contact time with the UV lamp at that flow rate will provide a U.V intensity of 33’000 mw/sec/sq
The intensity required to damage the white spot trophonts is around 72’000 mw/sec/sq
So we take 72’000 and divide it by 33’000 = 2.18
Now we take the flow rate for 33’000 mw/sec/sq and divide it by that figure
2000 l/hr / 2.18 = 917l/hr
This will provide a UV intensity of 72’000 mw/sec/sq at 917 l/hr through the unit ..
As your aquarium is 800l this you will still be turning the tank over x 1.15 times an hour. We advise 1-2 times an hour so you will still be within spec.
Take note that this is the real flow through the unit rather than what is printed on the pump as there will be some pressure loss due to pipework and head height so it would be a good idea to measure the actual output of the UV and calculate the true flow through the unit when running.
For instance a 1500l/hr pump may only push 1000l/hr though the unit when running and under head and pipe pressure.

 

[zalick]

From my understanding, the beneficial bacteria lives on the rocks, not water column. So what would you be killing in water column? Eggs. Pods. Etc. I'm ok with that, in order to kill all the bad stuff.
.I would do 400gph on yours.

I do about 800gph through my 114w aquauv. And my pods thrive.

 

[kyley]

I do about 800gph through my 114w aquauv. And my pods thrive.

Same - I have a good pod population with my sterilizer (this 25 watt Aqua UV) and it's at 400-500 GPH.

 

[bdare]

Not sure if anyone saw this in the manual. I'm only aiming to kill algae not completely sterilize my water or kill plankton. I feed phyto for clams and pods. Don't want their food incinerated.

 

[Jax15]

Thanks ya'll. I still think 800-1200 is ridiculously high, same with 1.5x/hour tank turnover. I've been running mine at about 125gph according to my apex flow sensor. I know that's super low... but it's been 5 months and I have 1) pod population, 2) no algae at all, 3) no unexplained fish death.

So I guess the takeaway here is, is super sterile water all that bad? It's just one more step of the heavy in/heavy out philosophy.

Then again, maybe it's doing nothing at 125gph, who knows. If I could do it again, I'd plumb it right in my return line.

 

[kyley]

My pod population is doing well too. They'll feed on fish poop, etc. I think I'm around 400 GPH.

 

[Greego]

Hey Folks,

A few months ago I purchased and installed an Aqua UV 25w sterilizer. It's supposed to be a top notch brand. I hard plumbed it in all nicely using my return pump manifold (Reef Octo 8) and an Apex flow sensor. My problem is that the max flow I can get is 175 GPH. I emailed Aqua UV and they told me that for a reef tank specifically it should be 800 GPH for protozoa, and closer to 1200 GPH for algae etc. They also told me that flow lower than 800 GPH can actually cause damage and degradation to beneficial cells/life etc. The person I spoke with seemed quite sure about this.

Yeah, when I was first considering a UV sterilizer about a few months ago, I recall a similar conversation with one of the tech guys at Aqua UV. I told him that I needed to put a reducer on the unit for it to fit my aquarium plumbing setup. He discussed the required flow for the UV sterilizer and strongly emphasized how important it was to have the right flow. He specifically said "we field test these units" to get that kind of data. So I walked away from that conversation strongly convinced that it would be useless to place a UV sterilizer on my tank.

Well, last week, unfortunately I forgot all about that conversation and pulled the trigger impulsively on a Aqua UV 57W. I have it plumbed using 3/4 reducers to fit the plumbing in my sump and right as I was in the last stages of setting it up, that conversation with the Aqua UV tech suddenly popped in my mind. Now, I';m not sure if I should even run the thing or not.

 

[Malcontent]

Thanks ya'll. I still think 800-1200 is ridiculously high, same with 1.5x/hour tank turnover. I've been running mine at about 125gph according to my apex flow sensor. I know that's super low... but it's been 5 months and I have 1) pod population, 2) no algae at all, 3) no unexplained fish death.

So I guess the takeaway here is, is super sterile water all that bad? It's just one more step of the heavy in/heavy out philosophy.

Then again, maybe it's doing nothing at 125gph, who knows. If I could do it again, I'd plumb it right in my return line.

It might be as you're not treating as much water.

In recirculating systems, flow rate and turnover rate are inversely proportional so the total UV dose is more or less the same regardless of flow rate. However, if a single pass provides a dose greater than what's needed to "kill" whatever you're trying to kill those are wasted photons... There will be a flow rate minimum below which results in suboptimal performance. Any flow rates above that are more or less equally effective.

And that's exactly what you see in the studies of flow rate vs. microbial inactivation.

 

[Jax15]

Yeah, when I was first considering a UV sterilizer about a few months ago, I recall a similar conversation with one of the tech guys at Aqua UV. I told him that I needed to put a reducer on the unit for it to fit my aquarium plumbing setup. He discussed the required flow for the UV sterilizer and strongly emphasized how important it was to have the right flow. He specifically said "we field test these units" to get that kind of data. So I walked away from that conversation strongly convinced that it would be useless to place a UV sterilizer on my tank.

Well, last week, unfortunately I forgot all about that conversation and pulled the trigger impulsively on a Aqua UV 57W. I have it plumbed using 3/4 reducers to fit the plumbing in my sump and right as I was in the last stages of setting it up, that conversation with the Aqua UV tech suddenly popped in my mind. Now, I';m not sure if I should even run the thing or not.

Ya I was in the same situation, decided to run it anyways and haven’t seen adverse effects. Prob sub optimal efficiency but at least no visible harm. I believe them when they offer flow rates, but also find it odd that a very similar design from Emperor suggests much lower flow rates on the same wattage bulb. Suggests to me that there may be a little bit of flex in this number along with other factors like how it’s plumbed in. Either way, not much I can easily do about it now... but I’m familiar with that uncertainty you mention. I leave it on 24/7 but in the back of my mind, I know that it’s a powerful device being run outside of spec! :/

 

[jeremybrowntattoos]

Bump -

curious to know what other people run their 25w UV at? Especially if an AquaUV.

I run a separate 1050 Gph flow pump that has a dial in knob to where I can get the flow to 400 gph (monitored by my Neptune flow meter)which is required to maintain parasites on my 150 gallon. It sits in my sump on the return part next to my return pump. For maintaining algae , you run it between 800 and 1020 flow rate. Just pick which problem you want to maintain and stick with it.

 

[rainsong]

I run a separate 1050 Gph flow pump that has a dial in knob to where I can get the flow to 400 gph (monitored by my Neptune flow meter)which is required to maintain parasites on my 150 gallon. It sits in my sump on the return part next to my return pump. For maintaining algae , you run it between 800 and 1020 flow rate. Just pick which problem you want to maintain and stick with it.

What kind of pump is this? Also, what size Neptune flow meter do you use?

Thanks

 

[dwest]

I ran 200-300 gph through my 57 watt aqua UV unit for 2 years after fighting dinos. You will not do any harm to the life in your tank. It’s not going to happen.

If there is a problem with flow, you will get lots of calcium carbonate precipitation on your bulb. You will see it as white or grey crusty stuff on your glass sleeve. I don’t think that’s going to happen but it might. I inspected and cleaned the unit every 7 months and replaced the bulb after 14 months. I had a small amount of precipitation at times but not much.

 

[Lothar]

I ran 200-300 gph through my 57 watt aqua UV unit for 2 years after fighting dinos. You will not do any harm to the life in your tank. It’s not going to happen.

If there is a problem with flow, you will get lots of calcium carbonate precipitation on your bulb. You will see it as white or grey crusty stuff on your glass sleeve. I don’t think that’s going to happen but it might. I inspected and cleaned the unit every 7 months and replaced the bulb after 14 months. I had a small amount of precipitation at times but not much.

Hello,

I know this is an old thread, but wondering if you had much temperature gain with the 57 watt? I'm setting up a Red Sea 425xl which is 112 gallons total volume before sand, rock etc. I'm considering the 25 watt Aqua UV because I'm concerned about the extra heat from the 57 watt. I am looking at these size sterilizers because of the length and hoping it will fit in my cabinet front to back.

Thanks

 

[dwest]

Hello,

I know this is an old thread, but wondering if you had much temperature gain with the 57 watt? I'm setting up a Red Sea 425xl which is 112 gallons total volume before sand, rock etc. I'm considering the 25 watt Aqua UV because I'm concerned about the extra heat from the 57 watt. I am looking at these size sterilizers because of the length and hoping it will fit in my cabinet front to back.

Thanks

Honestly, I didn’t notice much of a temperature gain. I guess it would be similar to having a 57 watt pump or heater in your system.

I don’t know what you are trying to solve with UV but I would lean toward the larger one. I believe the 25 watt and 57 watt versions are the same external size. And, bulb replacement costs are likely very similar. So if you wanted “less“ eradication or heat, you could operate with a timer.

Either way, good luck.

 

[Lothar]

Honestly, I didn’t notice much of a temperature gain. I guess it would be similar to having a 57 watt pump or heater in your system.

I don’t know what you are trying to solve with UV but I would lean toward the larger one. I believe the 25 watt and 57 watt versions are the same external size. And, bulb replacement costs are likely very similar. So if you wanted “less“ eradication or heat, you could operate with a timer.

Either way, good luck.

Thanks for your reply. It's interesting that they use the same body for the 25 and 57 watt. The 25 watt costs $408 and the 57 watt is $628. The 25 watt transformer is $125 and the 57 watt is $192. Bulb price difference is $15. So $82 difference in parts but they're charging $220 more for the 57 watt. I think I'm going with the 25 and maybe upgrade the parts at bulb change if it is not doing what I want.

Thanks again.

 

[dwest]

Thanks for your reply. It's interesting that they use the same body for the 25 and 57 watt. The 25 watt costs $408 and the 57 watt is $628. The 25 watt transformer is $125 and the 57 watt is $192. Bulb price difference is $15. So $82 difference in parts but they're charging $220 more for the 57 watt. I think I'm going with the 25 and maybe upgrade the parts at bulb change if it is not doing what I want.

Thanks again.

Looks like they are 15% off right now at premium aquatics.