Thank you for all the replies and ideas. I am getting ready to pull the tank off the stand in the near future and get the stranded squared away. Looking forward to getting it filled.
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Thank you for all the replies and ideas. I am getting ready to pull the tank off the stand in the near future and get the stand squared away. Looking forward to getting it filled.
Great stand btw, looks awesome!!
Well said and great drawing! ........
So could I just sister without plywood or would plywood make it more sturdy?
Thank you for the advice I had bought 1/2 insulation to take care of any uneven edges. I will go the plywood path.I wish to give credit were credit is due..... @RocketEngineer is the one who came up with that drawing and is the resident engineer on dimensional wood stands.
Yes, with comment. It appears to be a glass tank with plastic rim frame where the weight is transferred to the outer edge of the tank. I prefer to use plywood tops because it helps in "leveling" out the crude dimensional lumber. If you have nice flat, non-bowed dimensional lumber, then you're good to go. You'll know when you put the tank on the stand and there's no gap between the tank and frame, all the way around the tank. Corners tend to be the problem area.
Thank you for the information. I decided to build the stand originally, because I didn’t like the stand it came with and I wanted it wide open underneath to access the sump and other equipment.You would be fine to sister another 2x8 on the back rail of your stand. Although I'm sure it's not how you wanted it to end up it will add what you need.
I'm a hardwood flooring contractor and a licensed residential builder, this is the same process we use if I need to stiffen a floor joist. By tying the two together one can't move without the other moving. Any load on your added rail will be transfered to your supported rail, it can't move without moving the other which is supported. If it'll keep you up at night add a couple supports.
Congrats putting together your own stand!
I was thinking 1/2” carriage bolts. Perhaps 8 of them. What would suggest?Thank you for the information. I decided to build the stand originally, because I didn’t like the stand it came with and I wanted it wide open underneath to access the sump and other equipment.
What would you you suggest?I was thinking 1/2” carriage bolts. Perhaps 8 of them. What would suggest?
That would be fine. Carriage or lags, either work and 8 is good.I was thinking 1/2” carriage bolts. Perhaps 8 of them. What would suggest?
Thank you once again. I was reading they should be in a w pattern as well. Would you also suggest that as well?That would be fine. Carriage or lags, either work and 8 is good.
The stand is 72 1/2” longI would put them in four pairs of two. I don't remember but I think the stand was around 60" long so go about 12" apart.
Okay. Catching up. Sistering another beam seems easiest (?) and a 2x4 or 2x6 would be more than sufficlient — especially if you glue and bolt. Keep in mind that as you bolt it in, that you can stagger the bolts (high / low) so you don’t create a single line of holes that would create a single stress line (like perforations).You are imagining it correctly. I took some photos hope they can help.
Actually as it sits now I can just straddle the 2x8 beams by about a 1/4”. I would like to slide the front of the tank forward and sister another x 8 the full length of the stand.
Thank youOkay. Catching up. Sistering another beam seems easiest (?) and a 2x4 or 2x6 would be more than sufficlient — especially if you glue and bolt. Keep in mind that as you bolt it in, that you can stagger the bolts (high / low) so you don’t create a single line of holes that would create a single stress line (like perforations).
Cabinet looks great. Well done!
Without seeing it and assuming your joints are solid, it sounds good to me. Once you wrap that with plywood, it isn't going anywhere and 2" won't matter. My stand is almost 4" wider than the base of the tank but I've got a front center support in place to prevent any flex/sag.I will try to get better pictures, the stand is already wrapped in 3/4 plywood. The lower frame and legs were built out of 2x4. I used pocket screws and wood glue to attach the legs to the frame. I used 2 1/2 pocket screws to attach everything. Laid 2x6 flat for bracing along the bottom, also to attach the 3/4 plywood to for the bottom of the stand.
It is a rimmed tank the actual ends are sitting on the 2x8. I would just feel more comfortable if the back edge was supported as well.If it’s a rimmed tank these only bear at the ends.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/diy-stand-how-perfectly-flat-must-the-stand-be.861459/post-9401240
Provided you have the ends supported properly the tank should be good. The long pieces just hold the ends together.