DIY Fish Room

Mikeltee

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Its sagging, I have been thinking about unscrewing the top frame and flipping it to be honest.
Find someone on Facebook or Craigslist with a jointer. Woodworkers are happy to lend to hand at such a simple task. You can snap a caulk line and take a belt sander to it as well. I assume the wood is dry. If it's not, it's not done bowing.
 
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Cr4zy

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Find someone on Facebook or Craigslist with a jointer. Woodworkers are happy to lend to hand at such a simple task. You can snap a caulk line and take a belt sander to it as well. I assume the wood is dry. If it's not, it's not done bowing.
Thats not a bad shout, I'll defo have a look about thanks.

Regarding the wood, I didn't order it a family friend did because he gets a discount which is always helpful. However when the wood arrived it was treated, I dont know whether its kiln dried or not, but the stand has been built for about 4 weeks now. Would that be long enough for it to dry out if it weren't dried already??

I've always worked with kiln dried so I honestly have no idea.
 
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Cr4zy

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If that’s the case, flipping then makes it easier to get straight.
So flipping them is the route I've decided im going to go down, next question would be whats the best way to get them straight after flipping? cutting them or plaining them? I can't seem to find anybody with a jointer so looking for the best option.
 

redfishbluefish

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What works is any tool that will knock down that crown.....a hand plane, a power plane, a belt sander, whatever works. Just make sure you have a long straight edge to assure it's flat. I've also always recommended topping these dimensional stands with thick plywood to remove any small imperfections. Here in the States, I'd recommend 3/4 inch ply.....not sure what they have or use in the UK.
 

Johnd651

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For the humidity, if you use a bathroom fan, you can get humidity wall switches that would let you set a RH% so it's not always running, just above a certain %.
 
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Cr4zy

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What works is any tool that will knock down that crown.....a hand plane, a power plane, a belt sander, whatever works. Just make sure you have a long straight edge to assure it's flat. I've also always recommended topping these dimensional stands with thick plywood to remove any small imperfections. Here in the States, I'd recommend 3/4 inch ply.....not sure what they have or use in the UK.
Gonna take a crack at it on the weekend, ill post some pics of progress when its done. Im going to topping the stand with 18mm ply, which im sure is 3/4". The side and front it going to be 12mm as it also going to be part of the wall covering.

Speaking of ply, would I be able to get away with sealing it as oppose to buying marine ply, 1 sheet of marine ply is approx. £100/$125 where as a standard sheet would be around 20-30% of the price where I am in the UK.
Obviously with the humidity/moisture I dont want everything to fall to pieces. I would normally just go and buy marine ply, but in all honesty there taking the tick with prices.

For the humidity, if you use a bathroom fan, you can get humidity wall switches that would let you set a RH% so it's not always running, just above a certain %.
Thats exactly what I'm on the hunt for, prices are just so up and down.
 

Johnd651

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Leviton DHS05-1LW Humidity Sensor Switch for bathroom exhaust fan, automate ventilation, air circulation, moisture control, ¼ HP, Single Pole, White https://a.co/d/8t55Nf0

[New Generation] Humidity Sensor Switch, Ortis in-Wall Bathroom Fan Automated Control Switch, Air Moisture Detection, Neutral Wire Required, White, 120V/220V https://a.co/d/cB26WYW
 

Paul B

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Good Morning. I have a few issues with your stand but the biggest one by far is those sheetrock screws will rot almost instantly. On a stand for salt water only use Hot Dipped Galvanized hardware, preferably lag bolts or bolt through bolts.

I also have a problem with all that overlapping wood. Water gets in between those boards and will never come out. I prefer to use strong wood so one piece will do the jon without overlapping boards.

I made mine out of Redwood because it doesn't hardly warp or rot with moisture. It uses all hot dipped galvanized hardware.

As a commercial construction electrician in Manhattan for 45 years I built many supports for very heavy machinery and no one would use regular wood screws for anything you want to last.

Also those boards you have against the floor will get water under them that will be there for years and never dry. Leave an air space.

But good luck, at least it looks great and I hope it all works out.

(the top supports are cut into the legs so the hardware is not holding it alone. It is the design that is carrying the weight.)

 
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