Are my zoanthids melting?

aSpottedCow

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40B Knasty

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They definitely look bothered and in protection mode.
Did you target feed them?
Did you, a fish, or invert rub or crawl over them?
Is the light to much or not enough?
What are your parameters?
Notice any bugs or pests on them?
 
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aSpottedCow

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They definitely look bothered and in protection mode.
Did you target feed them?
Did you, a fish, or invert rub or crawl over them?
Is the light to much or not enough?
What are your parameters?
Notice any bugs or pests on them?

I did not target feed, I've had these guys less than a week,

Water Params ammonia 0 nitrite 0ish nitrate 5-10ppm, (still waiting on my reef test kit to come in to test other stuff)
Nothing has touched these guys, only other inhabitants are a pair of clowns
Lighting is stock biocube compact fluorescents
And I looked long and hard and haven't seen anything on em, plus I dipped and started with dry rock
 

40B Knasty

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From what I am gathering a week with no light will do that. CFL does not work for corals. You need LEDs with a high enough rating, T5s, or Metal Halides. Unless the coral is non photosynthetic type(NPS). Zoas are very much photosynthetic. So they will die if you do not get sufficient lighting for them.
 
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aSpottedCow

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From what I am gathering a week with no light will do that. CFL does not work for corals. You need LEDs with a high enough rating, T5s, or Metal Halides. Unless the coral is non photosynthetic type(NPS). Zoas are very much photosynthetic. So they will die if you do not get sufficient lighting for them.
I hope that's not the case. I'm not expert but ive seen a lot of people keep zoas with stock lighting for biocube. But hey came from a highlight environment. Could they maybe just need to re adjust? I've been doing to light acclimation of sandbed then moving up the rocks should I try a high point in the tank and see if that helps?
 
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aSpottedCow

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From what I am gathering a week with no light will do that. CFL does not work for corals. You need LEDs with a high enough rating, T5s, or Metal Halides. Unless the coral is non photosynthetic type(NPS). Zoas are very much photosynthetic. So they will die if you do not get sufficient lighting for them.
I hope that's not the case. I'm not expert but ive seen a lot of people keep zoas with stock lighting for biocube. But hey came from a highlight environment. Could they maybe just need to re adjust? I've been doing to light acclimation of sandbed then moving up the rocks should I try a high point in the tank and see if that helps?
 

40B Knasty

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Those people might have a 50/50 light in their fixture, but I would honestly say dont go putting anything even remotely past beginners level with a 50/50.
See here is the thing. On a coral is an algae called zooxanthellae. Zooxanthellae has a symbiotic relationship with the coral. The algae(zooxanthellae) absorbs light. Different light Spectrums give the coral what it needs. Chlorophyll A & B are important for the coral. The light spectrum it gets that from is from 400nM-450nM(nanometers). Also known as Actinic. It is a purple/violet color. It is the best color/spectrum/nM for the health and growth of a coral.
With compact lighting there is just a "light intensity." Probably not even close to 5k.
There is a thing called PAR that is basically the distance your light penetrates down into the water and how far it is spread.
Zoo Med Reef Sun 50/50. Check it out. Might give them the best "chance." It has 6500K and 420 phosphor Actinic.
 

40B Knasty

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Just to let you know. You will never get that glow or pop from the coral if it is not healthy or white lighting. Biocubes have an upgrade LED hood that can support corals no problem. Look around on sites to find maybe a cheap one. Just make sure the lights have been protected very good from the saltwater if used. You don't want rust and then have to buy a new one.
 

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I'd be more concerned with nitrite being present in the water. I'm sorry but PC lighting can grow coral and there are plenty of members on here that can prove it. Water parameters should be your concern then in the future you can upgrade the lighting. Your current llighting is not the cause of your zoas being closed and someone stating they won't grow coral is 100% false.
 

Scott.h

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My tank that has nitrates around 40 is wall to wall palys and zoes.

Sometimes zoes melt when introduced. They just do. I can buy 20 Zoe frags, put them in. 2 frags might melt and there is nothing wrong with my water. I was down at cherry corals one day, who has a fantastic selection in person, and I asked the same. Why? He told me if they were to fill a tank with frags sometimes 20% might melt. They just deal with it. So the bottom line - if you think you have an issue do a water test and watch the other corals. Maybe send in a triton test. If it's just that one, buy another 2 polyp frag for 20 bucks and let it grow.
 

40B Knasty

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I have 16 different zoanthids. None have melted. Some need less light. Some need high light. Some need low flow. Some need high flow. Find it's happy place. Nitrates at 5 should not be a problem at all. In fact most people on here would say 5-20ppm is good for Zoas. Me personally keep mine at 1-2.5ppm the most, because I care about my fish more.
200 people can say a coral is for experts, because you have to feed it. One person can say don't be lazy and feed it. Are you going to go with the common sense of it all or hear say.
T5 is about as close you will get to replicating the sun. Ever heard of an LED, MH, or CFL tanning bed, no..
Show me a green house that runs off CFL..
Ask anyone here what all the "masters" do for feeding their corals." The answer is "feed them?? I just use lighting. You don't need to feed them.." That's because their main source of nutrition is photosynthesis from the zooxanthellae that feeds the coral. Next would be phytoplankton.
 

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Nitrites should always be at zero, never said anything about nitrates. I like 10ppm nitrate for the corals. Comparing a tanning bed to a tank is a bit extreme. Saying compact fluorescent can't grow coral is still false and is most likely not the reason the zoas are melting. Some zoas just melt BTW, and is most likely due to chemistry and alk swings IME.
 

40B Knasty

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So you are telling me you would use CPL to feed your corals or have you ever seen some say I am switching back to CPL? Let's be real about this. No one here in their right mind is using CPL lighting if they know anything about corals and how little use they would be for a coral. So saying they would work is really extreme especially since you have no experience doing so in a long term(meaning at least 2 years). If that was the case everyone would be doing it.
I had CPL on my 20g. Tested my Phosphates at my LFS. The first words out of his mouth was "Jeez you must have a serious algae bloom." I showed him a picture of the tank. That was 4 months old at the time. Never got diatoms or GHA. Soon as I put a T5 Blue+ & Coral+. Boom! There it was. Why was it there now and not for 4 months, because I could now feed photosynthetic plants and corals.
 

iemsparticus

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So you are telling me you would use CPL to feed your corals or have you ever seen some say I am switching back to CPL? Let's be real about this. No one here in their right mind is using CPL lighting if they know anything about corals and how little use they would be for a coral. So saying they would work is really extreme especially since you have no experience doing so in a long term(meaning at least 2 years). If that was the case everyone would be doing it.
I had CPL on my 20g. Tested my Phosphates at my LFS. The first words out of his mouth was "Jeez you must have a serious algae bloom." I showed him a picture of the tank. That was 4 months old at the time. Never got diatoms or GHA. Soon as I put a T5 Blue+ & Coral+. Boom! There it was. Why was it there now and not for 4 months, because I could now feed photosynthetic plants and corals.
Just want to point out for accuracy... zooxanthellae isn't an algae... it's a single cell dinoflagelate. I don't think anyone will assert that CFLs are the best way to grow corals by any means, but enough people have used them to grow corals that it can't really be debated... they CAN grow corals... that being said, they won't handle anything more than low light corals (your only getting 20-30% of the PAR generated by the bulb into your tank), and your FAR better off using T5s, LEDs, or Metal Halides. :)
 

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So you are telling me you would use CPL to feed your corals or have you ever seen some say I am switching back to CPL? Let's be real about this. No one here in their right mind is using CPL lighting if they know anything about corals and how little use they would be for a coral. So saying they would work is really extreme especially since you have no experience doing so in a long term(meaning at least 2 years). If that was the case everyone would be doing it.
I had CPL on my 20g. Tested my Phosphates at my LFS. The first words out of his mouth was "Jeez you must have a serious algae bloom." I showed him a picture of the tank. That was 4 months old at the time. Never got diatoms or GHA. Soon as I put a T5 Blue+ & Coral+. Boom! There it was. Why was it there now and not for 4 months, because I could now feed photosynthetic plants and corals.
Where did I say I'd use or reccomend CFL? I'm simply saying a blanket statement of how CFL doesn't grow coral is false. I don't think you should lead the OP into believing his light is 100%the issue on why his zoas are closed. Also, how do know how long I've been reefing or assuming you know my level of knowledge? Being "real" about this is actually reading a post and not using assumptions.
 

40B Knasty

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Just want to point out for accuracy... zooxanthellae isn't an algae... it's a single cell dinoflagelate. I don't think anyone will assert that CFLs are the best way to grow corals by any means, but enough people have used them to grow corals that it can't really be debated... they CAN grow corals... that being said, they won't handle anything more than low light corals (your only getting 20-30% of the PAR generated by the bulb into your tank), and your FAR better off using T5s, LEDs, or Metal Halides. :)
Zooxanthellae are photosynthetic organisms, which contain chlorophyll a and chlorophyll c, as well as the dinoflagellate pigments peridinin and diadinoxanthin. These provide the yellowish and brownish colours typical of many of the host species.[1] During the day, they provide their host with the organic carbon products of photosynthesis, sometimes providing up to 90% of their host's energy needs for metabolism, growth and reproduction. In return, they receive nutrients, carbon dioxide, and an elevated position with access to sunshine.[3][4]

Dinoflagellates are microscopic single-celled planktonic organisms that used to be classified as algae but are now considered to be in a large and diverse group known as Alveolata. I can copy paste too :p"Used to be" So it is now Alveolata.
It also says 90% of the energy comes from the zooxanthellae. So please tell this person who started this thread straight up no sugar coating or safe place that your coral will not be healthy at all, because you will not be giving it sufficient lighting.
End of the day. My tank is fine. Help his. Help answer the question with what you think it is. He said he is no expert. Neither am I. I used a word that was no longer defining Zooxanthellae, but used to. So move on past the word defining and to what the actual zooxanthellae does. How healthy can something be only being 10% helped. Is his coral melting?
@aSpottedCow, Do you use a RO/DI, RO, or any kind of filter that will get you .000TDS(total dissolved solids)?
 

40B Knasty

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Where did I say I'd use or reccomend CFL? I'm simply saying a blanket statement of how CFL doesn't grow coral is false. I don't think you should lead the OP into believing his light is 100%the issue on why his zoas are closed. Also, how do know how long I've been reefing or assuming you know my level of knowledge? Being "real" about this is actually reading a post and not using assumptions.
It says you have been a member since 2014. I never met anyone hanging around in a forum for 3 years not involved. So there is 3 years I know you have been in the hobby..
 

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I'd be more concerned with nitrite being present in the water. I'm sorry but PC lighting can grow coral and there are plenty of members on here that can prove it. Water parameters should be your concern then in the future you can upgrade the lighting. Your current llighting is not the cause of your zoas being closed and someone stating they won't grow coral is 100% false.

My Rastas love my PC lighting and they do well under my Hydra LED. PC can definitely grow corals just fine.
In DSC's defense I have know him for along time and his contributions have always been solid. There is more than one to skin a cat and opposing view does not diminish or indicate experience level. ;Smuggrin
Check for hydroids emerging from the rock at night, scrub off some of that algae with a soft tooth brush. Zoanthids melt it just happens, yours look mad but not to the melting stage yet. :) If they do not show any improvement, dip in a iodine dilution.
 

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