Ash's 400 Gallon Reef

So last month I got filefish and few days ago got a Kleins butterfly fish to deal with this persistant aiptasia issue. I have lost patience for these aiptasia that yesterday i build a vacumm jose with a 1/4" end and did my best to suck them out, I was not successful but it felt good lol. Than i dosed them with sodium hydroxide. My hope was the file fish would start to see them as food when they became distressed. So far they are nipping at the rock but have not seen them do anything to the aiptasia yet.
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I may have to order peppermint shrimps to deal with them but everything is so expensive and never guaranteed. However, I lost a few zoa colonies and probably will lose this one if i dont get a handle on the outbreak.

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You may need to get a couple of filefish, peppermint shrimp, and some berghia nudibranchs. The fish may not be able to completely eradicate the aiptasia but the shrimp and nudibranchs probably will. The whole team can get the job done a lot faster. I've used filefish and shrimp in the past to good effect. Good luck.
 
I have had a great success with Filefish from Petco. If you have nothing against Petco they are either ORA or other AC provider but they have decimated Aiptasia in any tank that I have.
 
I have had a great success with Filefish from Petco. If you have nothing against Petco they are either ORA or other AC provider but they have decimated Aiptasia in any tank that I have.
I got a filefish from biota 1 month ago and trained it to eat aiptasia in QT before adding him to the display. I actually had 2 filefish but one got sucked up in the MP60, which really sucked. These fish are very expensive i spend $270 on 3 fish just for aiptasia and if i want to add peppermint its a good $150 from reeftopia. All of this stuff for it may or may not work is frustrating. I also got peppermints 2 years ago when the first aiptasia appeared but they all started dieing when i started killing aiptasia with sodium hydroixide, i believe it poisoined them. Until than the aiptasia problem was not out of control but the peppermints didnt take care of the entire tank and just focused on the entire rock structure on the left but never dared travel to the second island, which had less hiding places. This is the reason why i decided to kill the larger ones knowing the peppermints would take care of the babies. Also my UV sterilizer i stopped using 4 months ago bc it had a leak in the bulk head. aiptasia exploded after that,
 
Breaking News. I believe i saw my filefish eating baby aiptasia with my own eyes. He proceeded to start nipping about 20 times at various areas within 10 seconds. I also went to war with Aiptasia few days ago with sodium hydroxide. I dont use more than 3 needles worth at night and stab and inject a little bit inside their body, which they do not like this and die for sure. The probably is they can still go into survival mode since surround aiptasia sense this attack and still drop babies. I actually stopped caring i just need to kill the larger ones now that i have 2 fish that i am praying will take care of the babies.


 
Not happy with the Tank right now bc of the aiptasia, they really make the Aquarium ugly. I am proud of the aquaspace and being a perfectionist, that's really a big deal. Also happy with overall health and happiness of all my fish. Corals go on growth spurt and stop and cycle continues but i think thats was bc of the high Nitrates. I lost a good amount of acro frags this year so that stinks. Hoping i can get that consistent growth i had in my previous system. But this time i won't buy corals until I know my tank is right, which it is not.

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My Youtube Channel is finally approaching 1000 Subscriber mark. I have over 8000 watch hours but getting 1000 subs took forever. However, it was a good learning experience for me since I want to eventually make a YT channel for something mainstream and this was great practice.... I mean if i could make this channel blow up that would be awesome but I would need to tour and make videos of the best tanks in town, which i may consider.

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@Ashish Patel

Hello, I hope you don’t mind answering a few questions:

How long have you had your Orange shoulder tang?

How small was it when you first got it?

How big was it when it started changing colors?

I’d like pictures from around when you first got it to now to examine the growth rate compared to mine.


I’d also like to know what you feed him. :)


EDIT:

I went through this thread and found some info that I was seeking:

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It basically took you a few short months to get your tang as big as mine, and mine still hasn’t changed at all.

Mine is NOT dominant and very passive. It’s extremely peaceful. I think that’s why mine isn’t changing.
 
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This is mine right now.

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What do you feed yours?
 
I’m working on a 90-gallon aquarium, and this is my first real project—so far, it’s been a fun and exciting build! The owner wants a basement fish room with easy maintenance, similar to mine. His plan is to upgrade the display tank in a few years but keep the sump, which is a 110-gallon—way bigger than the current setup. Luckily . Hydro came out with new controller called Lauch, which has a salinity probe and way more driver ports than mine along with 4 build in power outlets. This system is going to be the most impressive 90 gallon setup, or at least have the best basement fish room to support it. I Still have to be a forever siphon drain that leads to the sump (for detritus removal), and have that also go into a mop sink for water changes.

I got some decent quotes from Glass Cages, but he found a solid deal on Facebook Marketplace—$800 for the tank, lights, sump, and protein skimmer.

We added a starboard bottom since he had sand in his 30-gallon and hated seeing the gunk build up. I told him we could make it work as long as we pick the right inverts and fish. But honestly, he’s copying my style—he wants all my knowledge and experience, and I’m more than happy to help him create a stunning, low-maintenance mixed reef.

We did a leak test and drained the tank, finished aquascape (which I love the way it came out). Now have to fill the tank with RODI and add salt and than wait for it to mature!

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@Ashish Patel

Hello, I hope you don’t mind answering a few questions:

How long have you had your Orange shoulder tang?

How small was it when you first got it?

How big was it when it started changing colors?

I’d like pictures from around when you first got it to now to examine the growth rate compared to mine.


I’d also like to know what you feed him. :)


EDIT:

I went through this thread and found some info that I was seeking:

IMG_1408.jpeg

IMG_1409.jpeg


It basically took you a few short months to get your tang as big as mine, and mine still hasn’t changed at all.

Mine is NOT dominant and very passive. It’s extremely peaceful. I think that’s why mine isn’t changing.
Hey, my bad for missing your message!

Honestly, I’m still amazed at how fast this tang grew in captivity. When I added him, he was only 2", and I figured I had at least three years before needing to consider rehoming him. But during his growth spurt, he was so clumsy—constantly knocking over frags and corals. Now, though, he’s a lot more agile and doesn’t bump into anything anymore.

A few things probably contributed to his rapid growth, along with the other tangs (except the powder blue, which was already pretty big).

1. The Achilles Tang and the Ich Situation​

Adding the Achilles Tang introduced an ich outbreak early on. I treated the tank with hyposalinity, but to keep aggression down, I had to make sure all the tangs were well-fed. At that point, I didn’t worry too much about nutrient buildup—I just wanted to keep my expensive fish alive. That turned out to be a mistake because, up until this tank, I had only relied on a refugium and water changes to control nutrients. As you know, I had to work hard to bring my nitrates down using vodka dosing, and I had to use lanthanum chloride for phosphates. Looking back, I’ve learned a lot from the experience, but if I had to do it again, I’d still overfeed—but I’d also stay ahead of nutrient control to avoid a year-long battle.

2. Heavy Feeding​

I really pushed feeding to the max. I bought a huge 2200ml bag of Spectra pellets and had my auto feeder drop food eight times a day—enough to empty an Eheim feeder every two weeks. On top of that, I fed a full sheet of nori every other day.

I also went to the grocery store and bought 10 lbs of shrimp, tilapia, cod, and smelts, ground it all up, and fed the tank. That 10 lbs lasted only three months. I did this for about eight months until my phosphate levels shot up past 200 PPB on the Hanna checker.

Interestingly, nutrient levels spiked even more after adding 12 large turbo snails. Their waste was super dense and got stuck in the rocks. Once I removed seven of them, nutrients started dropping again. My nitrates have been holding between 25-50 PPM for the last four months, but recently, I noticed them creeping up, so I increased my vodka dosing from 18ml/day (maintenance dose) to 47ml/day.

That said, I’m feeding more strategically now. I make sure the Achilles and Orange Shoulder Tang are well-fed to avoid aggression but without being as wasteful as before. In the evenings, from 6-11 PM, I keep frozen food on top of the tank and feed them 4-5 times whenever I check on them. This constant feeding keeps them active and swimming, which I think is the main reason for their growth.

3. Possibly Growth Hormones in Store-Bought Seafood?​

I don’t buy "natural" seafood—I just grab whatever’s available at Wegmans or Walmart. Given how tilapia is often farmed with growth hormones and other additives, I wonder if that played a small role in their rapid growth.

4. The Orange Shoulder’s Background​

The Orange Shoulder Tang came from another hobbyist who had four of them in one tank. Maybe it learned to compete for food early on. When I first got it, it was only the third smallest tang in my tank—smaller than my two purple tangs, but my two yellow tangs and the powder blue were much bigger. I still remember the first time I added it to the tank—it slipped out of my hand and landed on the floor! Even back then, it was hyperactive compared to the others, and now, it’s grown like crazy.

Lastly, the flow in my tank is pretty turbulent and chaotic, which keeps the fish active, increases their metabolism, and makes them want more food—which I’m more than happy to provide.

At the end of the day, just watch your fish. If they’re happy, let it be. Or, if you’re curious, you can try the feeding routine I use. Maybe it’s the human food, because the Orange Shoulder grew ¾" to 1" per month. Or maybe it’s inspired by WWC, who feed their fish every hour—I figured if it works for them, it might work for me too.

Anyway, I know this was a long explanation, but I wanted to share everything I could think of since your vodka dosing guide helped me so much. It’s the least I could do—appreciate the help!
 
Thank you very much!

Lately I’ve been thinking that adding a lieutenant tang (similar body shape) would cause the orange shoulder to become more territorial, resulting in the color shift.
 
Thank you very much!

Lately I’ve been thinking that adding a lieutenant tang (similar body shape) would cause the orange shoulder to become more territorial, resulting in the color shift.
Yeah. I guess mine coming from a tank with 3-4 acanthuridae and my tank having few it could have helped it speed up. I made a short 3 months ago

 
Hello,

Happy to find your build thread. I actually follow you on YouTube after searching for a close loop setup. Then I realized you have the same spec tank I want to built. But kinda confused since the lens makes the tank look more square, is this the case in person? Any regret not going for the super popular 8ft tank length? Still debating that in my head before I place my order.

But you helped me decided on adding a close loop.
 
Hello,

Happy to find your build thread. I actually follow you on YouTube after searching for a close loop setup. Then I realized you have the same spec tank I want to built. But kinda confused since the lens makes the tank look more square, is this the case in person? Any regret not going for the super popular 8ft tank length? Still debating that in my head before I place my order.

But you helped me decided on adding a close loop.
Awesome! Thanks for watching. What size are you thinking, and are you planning on a closed-loop system? The wide-angle lens definitely makes the tank look more square, so I wouldn’t rely too much on that. Try cutting out some cardboard templates to get a better sense of the actual dimensions.

My first reef tank was a 55-gallon, and I’ve always disliked the look of long, narrow tanks for reef aquariums because of the challenges with aquascaping and lighting. I went with 84" instead of 96" to maximize my lighting coverage. I have four T5s, which only come in 60" lengths, so I staggered them for better distribution. I also run three Radion Gen 5 Pros mounted high, with the T5s handling most of the heavy lifting. I could add one more Radion for full SPS coverage, but I prefer having some lower-light areas for corals that don’t need as much intensity.

Originally, I planned on a 72" x 42" tank since I was designing a closed-loop system. My goal was to get flow to the front corners without adding pumps to the far viewing side. However, we didn’t end up buying the first house, which had a huge downstairs room, so I decided to go with a more traditional rectangular setup against the wall.

If you’re on a tight budget, consider the additional costs of lighting and pumps before committing to a tank size. But if money isn’t a concern, go with something that appeals to you the most.
 
My DIY Giant Kalk Stir... well kinda

30 gallon kalk drum used to last alot longer now about 1 week. So I used my old tank stand that no one wants to buy, 2" pipe that will fill and mix new kalk evenly...

So this process of filling my kalk container and mixing kalk went from 15 minutes to about 1 minute.

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