Luis’ Waterbox LX 330.7

[Luisn17]

Hello,

I have always wanted to created to build thread and my time is finally here!. My Waterbox 330.7 arrived this Friday, since I live in Florida and near Orlando, we actually get the tank delivered from Waterbox directly. That’s a plus and a negative, the driver was great and there is something about seeing the Waterbox truck parked in front of the house, I forgot to take a pic. The negative, I received my delivery text at 3:30pm the day before and had to scramble to prep the garage.

The tank and stand are huge. Everything with this tank is so heavy and looks well built. But here is the tank and stand in the garage just after delivery. I was starting to check things.

I decided to completely open up the stand box. I did do a check of the tank from the inside, nothing looked damaged. But I could not check the bottom or the corners. I contacted @WWC to assist me in moving this tank inside of the house.

Pic of the tank waiting for freedom.

Thanks to @exnisstech and @Raptor72 for answering my questions. I will be implementing the 8020 light setup and the reefmat mod.

I will soon be able to start the process of moving everything from my old tank to the new one.

 

[exnisstech]

Tip Remove the bottom inside the stand and leave the sump out then add some fresh water to the tank for weight and level it. Its nearly impossible to get to all the all the leveling feet with the stand bottom in place. Most people smarter than I would already know this. I do now :zany-face:

 

[Luisn17]

Tip Remove the bottom inside the stand and leave the sump out then add some fresh water to the tank for weight and level it. Its nearly impossible to get to all the all the leveling feet with the stand bottom in place. Most people smarter than I would already know this. I do now :zany-face:

lol. And I was so hesitant about taking out the sump. My dad came over and felt we could carry in the stand and sump ourselves if we separated them. I told him, no, I don’t think that’s supposed to happen and don’t want to risk it. He will tell me “I told you!” When I tell him, well the sump is supposed to come out to level the stand. WWC will level it but I don’t know if they do it with water but will bring it up. I will make sure that level bubble is perfect pre and post the tank being added.

 

[exnisstech]

WWC has more experience so maybe they have a cool tool to get to the feet to adjust them.

 

[Luisn17]

New stuff is starting to show up and I will be using some other stuff from the current tank.

I purchased 4 bags of 20lbs of sand but I think I need an additional 20 pounds or maybe 40 lbs. I want to have about 0.75 inch deep sand bed. The BRS calculator says I need 92 pounds and I thought I had ordered 5 bags. Rock and plumbing supplies are coming tomorrow. I will be moving some rock from my existing tank but wanted some big arches.

I opened all the boxes for the tank and found out this model does not have the pre-built controller doors like how is shown in the LX series from waterbox on YouTube. Is just a big box with a thin back. Kinda confused why they changed it to this setup, makes harder to hide power bricks and organize controllers.

I think the door has also changed, is now completely closed, I think I saw a pic here with a cable(s) coming out thru the door. Does not make a difference to me, I actually prefer the new door with the handle:

WWC will be here on Monday to move the tank. Hoping to get it wet and dosing some bacteria on Monday or Tuesday. I will move some rocks and biomedia to get the process going. I fear moving my corals and them freaking out or the bioload not being able to keep up and losing fish. I My RODI can also only do 150 gallons per day.

I also have to figure out the cable management, sump area lighting, apex redundancy, etc, etc.

 

[Raptor72]

Cool beans! Just came across your thread. Take your time with the setup and enjoy it. That’s always the best part for me, as much as we look forward to putting water in it.

Following along.

 

[Luisn17]

Cool beans! Just came across your thread. Take your time with the setup and enjoy it. That’s always the best part for me, as much as we look forward to putting water in it.

Following along.

Yes, agree. I don’t want to rush things and end up redoing things but at the same time, I kinda to see it up and running. I have to be patient since I have a lot of things to figure out. Where my UV, dosing pumps, and powerbricks will go.

 

[Raptor72]

BTW, if you want to go with the Kraken lids, they now have the templates for that tank since I gave them my measurements for it.

 

[Luisn17]

BTW, if you want to go with the Kraken lids, they now have the templates for that tank since I gave them my measurements for it.

Yes, I thought about it. Especially since I thought it will get annoying quickly to move the whole lid on and off every time I feed the fish. I have a kraken lid on my peninsula 25 and it has been great.

The only thing, I like the design from toplids a little bit better due to the bigger feeding port. I use a mesh strainer to remove the extra stuff from the frozen food I feed the fish. I don’t know if the port is actually big enough to fit the strainer.

 

[Luisn17]

Tank is finally inside of the house. I felt bad for picking the location I picked for the tank but the guys from WWC made sure the tank was centered and exactly to the inches I told them. They checked it 3 times and even told me to check it. Guess they know most of us are OCD, lol.

I started to leak test it with tap water, I know if this thing leaks it will flood the living room. But prefer to rule out a leak with tap water than saltwater.

This thing is a beast.

I thought I had planned every part and then I hit my first wall. I went to connect the sump lighting and realized the outlet is in the middle of the wall….ugh! I ordered a flat head extension cord and will have to use a mirror and some flexibility to connect it. Back up will be to make a hole in the backing.

For some odd reason the electrical panel doors are super tight. Seems like the padding is extra thick or something, is very odd. I will probably shoot waterbox an email.

I may end up removing the electrical panel on the left since I can’t real use it. I only have 4 inches of clearance.

More to come…

 

[Raptor72]

Since mine was installed in a wall niche, the ends for the electrical panels were inaccessible so I removed my boxes and made use of the extra space. Looks like you can still use the right one.

 

[Luisn17]

Since mine was installed in a wall niche, the ends for the electrical panels were inaccessible so I removed my boxes and made use of the extra space. Looks like you can still use the right one.

Yes, I attempted to remove the one in the left but noticed the door only stays on because of the magnets in the electrical cabinet box. I tried to remove the screws in the metal frame thinking I can just screw back the metal frame on without the “box”. It did not work since they glue the frame to the box. I will have to permanently damage the box or find an alternative. I also want to remove it to gain that extra room for the filter roller.

Yes, the one in the right is where all my apex and ecotech stuff will go. I will probably use some command strips or 3m tape to stick them on. Not sure what else can work.

 

[zoohoot]

Following along! We are working on similar WB builds at about the same time. Have fun man!

 

[Luisn17]

Following along! We are working on similar WB builds at about the same time. Have fun man!

Thanks. I saw and posted in your build. I really thought about the 380.7 especially when it was on sale but my wall where I placed the tank is 4 inches too small.

 

[Luisn17]

One step forward…

I have been trying to figure out a solution to my left door dilemma. I looked and looked at how the box was constructed and decided to send it. I wanted to use the frame to hold the door. The worse that can happen I have to contact waterbox and get a replacement. I started with one end and pulled up with a screwdriver and I could feel the glue coming off. I continue slowly and moved to the other side and the piece came off clean with no damage. I did the same to the other side which contains the metal piece, the two main pieces. This is how it looks:

I took the two sides, left and right, bolted them up to the stand but noticed the door will not hold. It also needs the bottom piece to hold it up, I went back and removed it from the box and at that point I also removed the top piece to finish the frame. I added the full frame to the stand and it looks like OEM. Some more pics:

 

[zoohoot]

Thanks. I saw and posted in your build. I really thought about the 380.7 especially when it was on sale but my wall where I placed the tank is 4 inches too small.

Totally. You gotta go with what makes sense. Thx!

 

[Raptor72]

I used some L brackets to hold that door up when I removed my boxes and it seemed to hold up well.

 

[Futuretotm]

getting my 330.7 at the end of next month! glad youre off to the races

 

[Luisn17]

I used some L brackets to hold that door up when I removed my boxes and it seemed to hold up well.

Ahhh. No wonder, this is has to be something which is done before placing the stand and tank in the final location. Is not comfortable to work in that area with the sump and tank already in place. Your solution is optimal in the sense that I believe if I bump the door with enough force the door will pop off in my setup. But it takes some force not just a tap.

 

[Luisn17]

getting my 330.7 at the end of next month! glad youre off to the races

Awesome! One piece of advice, really think of everything you may need to do in the sides or back of it. If you won’t have access to it like me. This thing is way too heavy to be moved even empty. I had to do some yoga positions just to plug in an extension cord because I forgot. The same with the AWC lines and fresh ATO line. Rookie mistakes, I should have known better.