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True, did see that. I'd take a 110"x1" sheet over a 120"x3/4" though .Limited to 110" so 10" short of the dream.
Actually scratch that - I'd take a fiberglass with two windows
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True, did see that. I'd take a 110"x1" sheet over a 120"x3/4" though .Limited to 110" so 10" short of the dream.
Do you not recommend Weld-On 4? About to build a 72x36x24Just my opinion.
I will settle it for you from a liability and insurance stand point. 30 plus years ago I had the opportunity to purchase a fairly large regional glass tank manufacturer. When I went shopping for liability insurance not one company would underwrite the policy period. Then I looked at establishing my own company fabricating acrylic aquariums and 2 million aggregate only cost me $750 per year. In the actuarial tables there were very low risk levels for acrylic...not so with glass. I manufactured acrylic aquariums up to 16' long and 4' tall for over 30 years. Guess what those large tanks are still on display and being used today. I am glad I listened to the insurance companies and not the guy selling the glass aquarium company.
All the claims about yellowing are a thing of the past due to all the manufacturing processes using UV stabilized acrylics.
Acrylic is 6-10 times more impact resistant. Acrylic just like glass can scratch but just try to re-polish a glass tank with a scratch. Acrylic is lighter and I often delivered aquariums up to 240 gallons by myself...try that with glass. Moving a large glass tank is just dangerous and all it takes is a small tap to an edge or corner and the tank is chipped, split and done. Hopefully you or your buddies did not get seriously cut in the process.
Every professional level public aquarium has acrylic or glass clad acrylic panels. Guess why...thermal efficency, and impact resistance. Yep it is for the safety of their guests.
Bad mouth acrylic all you want but when it comes time to resell any aquarium you will only get pennies on the dollar since no one wants a used aquarium that might leak.
Alot of the custom glass tanks you can buy today are way more expensive than acrylic due to risk of damage due to shipping and crating requirements. And in an effort to make them stronger you often have big black seams to reinforce the main panels. Acrylic seams properly done are water clear and just as strong as the parent material.
I have noticed many manufacturing companies using continous cast or extruded acrylic for sumps and small tanks and this is just not acceptable. Only properly gauged cell cast acrylic with proper solvent bonds should be used ever. That means forget the Sci grip junk like weld on 3, 4, 16, and 40. 42 can be used for some designs but the panels will separate with impact cleanly along a seam versus using proper on site mixed solvents.
I will never convince some of the haters of acrylic until their beloved glass tank splits or explodes some day or night in front of them. In all the years of building acrylic I only had one warranty claim and it was due to using weld on 4 early on in my career. I researched the problem developed a solution, built the customer a new tank, and paid for the replacement livestock. Fortunately there was no damage to the customers house. I would do it all over again with acrylic versus glass. And yes I built and sold glass tanks for many years and have the experience necessary to just about build any glass tank I want. For any tank over 70 gallons I will never use glass due to the damage potential and liability.
Good luck with your choice.
No I recommend a solvent from scratch and you can find the formula on the acrylic forum on R2R. Weld on 40 will fail at low impact unless you can heat anneal the whole tank in an oven after fabrication and polishing. No one ever does this due to the cost of the oven. So a solvent weld like #4 or #3 is better but not great due to the short shelf life of the commercial solvents. Weld on 42 is easier to use due to the mixing on delivery from the gun and mixing tips...but still weak compared to the solvent mix recommended by the acrylic forum. PM me if you want more info.Do you not recommend Weld-On 4? About to build a 72x36x24
Do you not recommend Weld-On 4? About to build a 72x36x24
Figured since I shared my 300 gallon acrylic info with you that I would now share my 120 gallon glass reef ready experience with you. Tank is 7 years old has 15,000$ worth of corals in it and blew a seam out last night 2am as I was getting up to go to bed I heard the water running. Needless to say 12 hours later still haven’t gone to bed lost only 1 fish so far my yashi goby is gone must have gotten buried while removing rocks cause he lived under them with his partner pistol shrimp. I got pistol shrimp came out from rock yashi Must have dove into sand and never seen again and I looked hard. My corals are now spread out threw undesirable tanks for corals like in my anemone tank being stung and in my aptasia breeding tanks. Had to do what I had to do. Now have 3 fans running and dehumidifier in living room as the water still drips threw the floor into basement. What a horrible nightFordtech that feedback is appreciated - especially on the no-yellowing as claimed by others here. 1/2" acrylic is under-designed and so requires excessive bracing. So you actually help make my point that a well-designed acrylic tank really should use a much heavier wall than one would with glass. But once that heavier wall is used with good bracing, I think the acrylic design is structurally sound. As for 20 year silicone seals, I know several folks still running their tanks from the 1990s and have never replaced the structural component of their joints. They have re-lined the inner-seal portions. Those tanks are 125 to 400 gal in size but none are deeper than 27."
Hi! I worked at one. Periodically we would empty the tanks and buff out the scratches. Some can’t get buffed out but most can. After about 5 years a tank needs a good buff.How do public aquariums maintain the condition of their acrylic walls then?
Alimac, In your experience, how much of the scratching was inside versus outside.