Ati icp test results in. IMO don’t look so bad so why are most my corals deflated not happy starting to show skeleton.
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OP
OP
And then I think it has to be Nutrients mainly phosphates and nitrates because my calcium and alkalinity and magnesium are on dozers with a trident that should be stable. Anyways sorry for so many posts just thinking to myself out loud
After reading all the posts on here, I think your just "chasing numbers" and causing stress to your corals which leads to their eventual death.
Now I know you know what I mean by chasing numbers, and I realise your not hung on an absolute number, but chasing numbers can also mean......
Don't get hung up on an absolute number(like 7.5ALK), but watch the tank for trends. Like if one day your 7.3, then the next it's 7.4, or 7.2, just watch it. Don't immediately run to the 2 part to bring it back up to the absolute number of 7.5. The next time you test it might be 7.0, then I would adjust. If it was 7.4 or even 7.2 again, I wouldn't touch it. You have to realize also that our test kits have variances also that is well within their specific margin of error.
We always talk stability, but stability within reason. Sometimes too stable, is actually unstable.
Now I know you know what I mean by chasing numbers, and I realise your not hung on an absolute number, but chasing numbers can also mean......
Don't get hung up on an absolute number(like 7.5ALK), but watch the tank for trends. Like if one day your 7.3, then the next it's 7.4, or 7.2, just watch it. Don't immediately run to the 2 part to bring it back up to the absolute number of 7.5. The next time you test it might be 7.0, then I would adjust. If it was 7.4 or even 7.2 again, I wouldn't touch it. You have to realize also that our test kits have variances also that is well within their specific margin of error.
We always talk stability, but stability within reason. Sometimes too stable, is actually unstable.
IslandLifeReef
Valuable Member
When I was having issues with corals looking great for months and then slowly starting to die, I asked my LFS what they thought. All of my water parameters were fine. Then they looked at my light schedule. They reminded me that coral get 80% or more of their energy zooxanthellae which need light. I increased my light, and haven’t had an issue since. IMO, 40 PAR seems low, especially if you are not using a very long photo period.
I would increase the lighting and add some fish and stop messing with the water. Just an opinion. My tank has had nutrients ranging from barely detectable to just low. My current NO3 is 5 ppm and my PO4 is 0.006 ppm. I try not to chase things and my coral seem happy.
I would increase the lighting and add some fish and stop messing with the water. Just an opinion. My tank has had nutrients ranging from barely detectable to just low. My current NO3 is 5 ppm and my PO4 is 0.006 ppm. I try not to chase things and my coral seem happy.
OP
OP
Just went to lfs to trade half of my leather was 23 Pieces and they gave me $300 store credit of which I bought a very small purple tang a Yellow watchman goby a Midas Blenny a yashi goby to replace the one I lost a month ago and a fire fish Definitely think I came out ahead I don’t get purple tang till Friday
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OP
OP
Just traded bunch of leather in for few fish let’s see how this goes
OP
OP
So figured I’d update this post with what I’m doing to best stabilize my tank with hopes to fix things. So the fish I got are doing well. Since adding them I am feeding 1 cube 2x a day this is up from 1x a day. I also turned off trident controlled dosing and set alk and cal to dose same amount after figuring out lowest needed to dose to keep about 8dkh. Strange 2 weeks ago was dosing 140ml now system only needs 80ml so I feel most of it was calcifying in my sand because top layer of sand in spots is now hard. Also I will do 10% water change every other week. Corals still not doing well but kinda feel the regression has slowed a little. Let’s hope it stops soon.
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