ATI Nutrition CNP?

[Max_nano]

C will feed your corals as well as the bacteria (which causes the reduction of nutrients). Corals should out compete the bacteria so if C is very limited you shouldn't hopefully see a big reduction in nutrients if dosed as instructed.

I may just have to manually dose, but I have only a 25 g/100L tank and have already diluted each component with 1500mL. When my N goes higher and I start to dose C it looks like the suggested dose will be under 1mL. Can I double the dose and do it every other day, or should I dilute it further and increase the dose accordingly?

 

[ATI North America]

I would not double the dose and do every other day, that will likely give the bacteria a greater opportunity to consume it rather than the corals.

 

[AlexLS]

I don't have any specific data regarding the potency, if you are looking for something specific such as dose X raise Xppm I will have to look into it with the Lab in Germany.

Any info on this? This would be helpful in some situations. It would be nice to present this on the website. Thank you in advance.

 

[ATI North America]

Any info on this? This would be helpful in some situations. It would be nice to present this on the website. Thank you in advance.

The intention of the product is not to raise levels of nutrients in your water column, it is to feed your corals the nutrients they need. If you are dosing so much your levels are rising it is too much.

 

[KnightlyBuzz]

@ATI North America

Should I shake the bottles of CNP or not before dosing?

Thanks

 

[ATI North America]

@ATI North America

Should I shake the bottles of CNP or not before dosing?

Thanks

Shaking them is not required.

 

[KnightlyBuzz]

Shaking them is not required.

Thanks

 

[The Opinionated Reefer]

There is definitely some contradictory information between the US site and the German calculator. The calculator tells me to dose only Nitrogen at 19.2ml per day (diluted 2 to1) but on the US site it would tell me to dose N and C but no dosage is given for C.

Also the Nitrogen component is not very potent at all. I am dosing well above the 19.2ml per day and still only have a nitrate reading of 0.5ppm. I am aiming for 2ppm. When dosing Seachem flourish nitrogen my nitrates shot up to 16ppm on a similar dosage so it must be far more potent than the ATI stuff.

 

[MrStoffel]

There is definitely some contradictory information between the US site and the German calculator. The calculator tells me to dose only Nitrogen at 19.2ml per day (diluted 2 to1) but on the US site it would tell me to dose N and C but no dosage is given for C.

Also the Nitrogen component is not very potent at all. I am dosing well above the 19.2ml per day and still only have a nitrate reading of 0.5ppm. I am aiming for 2ppm. When dosing Seachem flourish nitrogen my nitrates shot up to 16ppm on a similar dosage so it must be far more potent than the ATI stuff.

I had some contact through mail with ATI germany and this is what i got from it:
The N component is not nitrogen, but ammonia. Ammonia is easier to take up for corals.
Hence the reason why they say when you detect a rise in NO3 it is too much. That means there is excess Ammonia not being consumed by the corals, but rather converted into NO3 by bacteria.

Since the calculator asks you for the NO3 and PO4 levels in the tank, i found this quite confusing as well.

 

[The Opinionated Reefer]

Since the calculator asks you for the NO3 and PO4 levels in the tank, i found this quite confusing as well.

Also that it is labelled and sold as a nitrogen source!

I believe what the nutrition range is trying to do is get to 1-2 ppm nitrate and 0.04 phosphate and maintain it there.

 

[MrStoffel]

Also that it is labelled and sold as a nitrogen source!

I believe what the nutrition range is trying to do is get to 1-2 ppm nitrate and 0.04 phosphate and maintain it there.

It IS a nitrogen source. And when overdosed it will turn into NO3.
However, that is not the aim of their system. (measurable NO3)
They explained it to me like this:
the N & P are the food for your corals (and on 2nd instance bacteria)
P will raise PO4 directly, thus you can measure this immediately after dosing
N raises NH3, wich is taken up by your corals throughout the day, what is left is eventually converted into NO3 by your bacteria.
In a perfect balance nothing is left, so in theory your corals can be happy and you measure 0 NO3 at the end of the day.
However, you still feed your fish and have other natural sources of nitrogen in the tank, so something is always leftover.
As long as your NO3 is not rising to high, there is no need to reduce your N dosage.
When you measure 0 NO3 end of day, and your corals are struggling, you increase the dose by 20%.

 

[The Opinionated Reefer]

It IS a nitrogen source. And when overdosed it will turn into NO3.
However, that is not the aim of their system. (measurable NO3)
They explained it to me like this:
the N & P are the food for your corals (and on 2nd instance bacteria)
P will raise PO4 directly, thus you can measure this immediately after dosing
N raises NH3, wich is taken up by your corals throughout the day, what is left is eventually converted into NO3 by your bacteria.
In a perfect balance nothing is left, so in theory your corals can be happy and you measure 0 NO3 at the end of the day.
However, you still feed your fish and have other natural sources of nitrogen in the tank, so something is always leftover.
As long as your NO3 is not rising to high, there is no need to reduce your N dosage.
When you measure 0 NO3 end of day, and your corals are struggling, you increase the dose by 20%.

My corals are not struggling I am dosing NO3 to raise nutrients in an effort to fight dino's and cyano which are caused by low nutrients. The good bacteria starving out and dino's are taking over because there is no enough nitrate in the system.

See the thread: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/p...th-dinos-and-cyano.838329/page-2#post-9152823

 

[MrStoffel]

I had the same issue a few weeks ago. The dino's i had were annoying the tips of my sps.
Upping the dose of ATI N & P fixed the issue, combined with turkey basting, powerfilter in display, microbubble scrubbing in the evening.

 

[The Opinionated Reefer]

The problem I have is that my nitrates are naturally very low in the tank no matter what I do. So if I do nothing but feed the fish they usually sit around 0.25 ppm nitrate and my phosphate sits around 0.08

So using these values in the calculator means that I would only ever have to dose the N part and at the recommended dose it never takes my nitrates above the 1ppm mark so therefore I will never get to use the C or P part and miss out on the benefits of feeding the corals with bacteria.

This cannot be correct?

I think that the explanation of how to use this system is not very good and ATI needs to revisit this and explain it better to the users and try to explain what to do in situations like mine where the tank does not follow the "normal" trends. Perhaps this has been written by a German and something has been lost in translation because it is very vague as others have pointed out.

 

[ATI North America]

The intention of ATI Nutrition is to feed the corals, not raise your values. Think of it this way, if you dose X and your value doesn't change, where do you think that nutrient went? Your corals used it! Don't get so caught up in chasing numbers you miss the fact the corals are getting nutrition.

 

[The Opinionated Reefer]

The intention of ATI Nutrition is to feed the corals, not raise your values. Think of it this way, if you dose X and your value doesn't change, where do you think that nutrient went? Your corals used it! Don't get so caught up in chasing numbers you miss the fact the corals are getting nutrition.

Yes but I am experiencing issues due to low nutrients (some dinos and cyano) so how do I combat that? Also what if I want to dose the carbon in order to feed the corals. You see its just not as simple as what the ATI system suggests.

 

[KnightlyBuzz]

@ATI North America

Does C, N or P have a shelf life?

My bottle of N is about 6 months old and it has a very small amount of “brown dust” settling in the bottom. Should I just periodically shake it, or throw it out and get a new bottle?

Thanks

 

[KnightlyBuzz]

Yes but I am experiencing issues due to low nutrients (some dinos and cyano) so how do I combat that? Also what if I want to dose the carbon in order to feed the corals. You see its just not as simple as what the ATI system suggests.

What I do is I use the ATI calculator as a guide. But if my nutrients are staying low even with dosing the recommended amounts, I’ll raise the amount of Nutrition P I’m adding (since it’s just phosphate/ phosphorus) but I do NOT increase the Nutrition N. To increase NO3 I add NeoNitro (Brightwell product).

My situation is I have very few fish and very few coral, so my tank is somewhat nutrient starved. ATI is great and I love their products, but every tank is different and it’s extremely hard to make a calculator that works for every situation.

I hope sharing what works in my situation helps.

 

[ATI North America]

@ATI North America

Does C, N or P have a shelf life?

My bottle of N is about 6 months old and it has a very small amount of “brown dust” settling in the bottom. Should I just periodically shake it, or throw it out and get a new bottle?

Thanks

Hello Knightly,

The brown you are seeing is oxidation of the nutrients. Think of it as an apple turning brown from air exposure. It is totally harmless and while it won't look as nice, it is nothing to worry about. It will not impact the product other than the color. No need to buy more.

 

[AlexLS]

The intention of ATI Nutrition is to feed the corals, not raise your values. Think of it this way, if you dose X and your value doesn't change, where do you think that nutrient went? Your corals used it! Don't get so caught up in chasing numbers you miss the fact the corals are getting nutrition.

So I am almost two months into using this in the hopes that I would get anything but 0 on tests and if not, at least "think" they are fed. I have quadrupled the dose from the calculator with no change in the tested values of N or P. N is ok-ish even if not dosing but phosphates bottoms up to 0. I tried testing your solution and I get weird colors. I diluted it with fresh saltwater and no mater the concentration, tests show 0.

You keep saying it magically works, but we can't see it. Seriously...
I have tried asking the coral if he is feeling fed but does not talk back, and it is not looking better since dosing started either.
Unless you came up with a way of validating your products, for me your are selling distilled water. If it is not N or P in those bottles, then what it is? How can we, as customers, check that your product does what it says? Do you have any way to prove your product?