ATI T5 vs generic T5 fixture

[DanConnor]

Has anyone measured to see if the ATI is actually brighter?

I've been running an 8 bulb ATI over my 200 for about 5 years- I'd like to eventually put 12 bulbs over it, but it would be a lot easier to do a 12 bulb generic than 2 6-bulb ATIs.

 

[homer1475]

Overdriven ballast.

I have a 4 bulb generic fixture in my garage for burning in bulbs. With burnt in bulbs in that fixture I get about 150 par out of water. Those same bulbs in my ATI fixture put out well over 200.

Yes the ATI fixture(more so the ballasts) make the bulbs "brighter". Now whether that is from the reflectors, or the ballast, I cannot say for sure. Maybe @Dana Riddle could comment?

 

[DanConnor]

Thanks. Just to be clear, by "generic" I was referring to the hydroponic type fixtures

 

[oreo54]

Thanks. Just to be clear, by "generic" I was referring to the hydroponic type fixtures

Between running the bulbs at an optimum temp (printed side under fan btw) and the better reflectors in general yes ATI's squeeze more PAR out of a tube.
How much and what it means to you??
You can find the data with a search.
Lumens as a proxy for par..

 

[homer1475]

Between running the bulbs at an optimum temp (printed side under fan btw) and the better reflectors in general yes ATI's squeeze more PAR out of a tube.
How much and what it means to you??
You can find the data with a search.
Lumens as a proxy for par..

Forgot about the air blowing over the cathode in the ATI fixture! Actually just read a thread the other day by ATI about why they do it, and why the label end has to be over the air hole.

 

[DanConnor]

The label has to be at the air exit end, to clarify :)

 

[homer1475]

The label has to be at the air exit end, to clarify :)

Not sure how you mean?

The label has to be over the hole where the air comes out, then run down the length of the tube, not the end of the fixture where the air comes out of the fixture.

 

[Midrats]

The label has to be at the air exit end, to clarify :)

This is backwards.

 

[Lbrdsoxfan]

Thanks. Just to be clear, by "generic" I was referring to the hydroponic type fixtures

Im using a hydroponics 4 bulb fixture currently. Haven't had a chance to measure par, was planning to do so in the next few weeks. I will say that coming from LED's, overall growth is positive.

 

[homer1475]

For clarification.....

The label on the tube, has to be on the plug side of the fixture. This goes for ANY ATI fixture.

The air hole inside the fixture is always on the plug side of the fixture. Learned that in that article too!

 

[Mike konesky]

I've compared a 8 bulb ATI to a 8 bulb agrobrite and found the ATI to put out 50% more par for the same power. Same bulbs/layout.

 

[DanConnor]

Son of a.....!

I read somewhere that the label goes at the exit end. Apparently that was wrong.

Anyway....

 

[Bpb]

Son of a.....!

I read somewhere that the label goes at the exit end. Apparently that was wrong.

Anyway....

Better late than never!

 

[Big E]

You need to consider what ballast is running the bulbs in the two fixtures. Those cheap fixtures sometime use crappy ballasts like workhorse or other type brands that are not spec'd for those bulbs.

Every bulb made has a spec'd ballast to match to it. The ballast has to have this designation. There is an actual list that lays this all out. Anyone that sells bulbs/ballasts can direct you to that list.

Two brands I know of that match the exact specs needed are the HEP ballasts that ATI uses and the Phillips Advance ballast.

 

[DanConnor]

Yeah, I have a large cheap fixture running over a frag tray that I think uses Fulham Workhorse. To be honest- it grows coral just fine, but I haven't made any kind of measurements to compare with the ATI.

The fixture I'm looking at now uses a Racehorse ballast; it uses a programmed start which appears to be better for bulb life, although I don't know how much that matters if it just goes on and off once a day.

 

[Big E]

Yes, the electronic start is easier on the bulbs but that is an incorrect ballast for the bulb, so you're going to get less par and not the same spectral output.

It's also a cheaper ballast more likely to not last as long.

 

[DanConnor]

How do you know it's not a correct ballast for aquarium bulbs?

 

[DanConnor]

ATI says it will work fine

 

[ATI North America]

Overdriven ballast.

I have a 4 bulb generic fixture in my garage for burning in bulbs. With burnt in bulbs in that fixture I get about 150 par out of water. Those same bulbs in my ATI fixture put out well over 200.

Yes the ATI fixture(more so the ballasts) make the bulbs "brighter". Now whether that is from the reflectors, or the ballast, I cannot say for sure. Maybe @Dana Riddle could comment?

Our ballasts do not over drive the bulbs, they are properly matched.

The label has to be at the air exit end, to clarify :)

As you discovered, this is incorrect. Label under the air hole (label up or down makes no difference, only end over end is what matters)

ATI says it will work fine

I will fire the bulb, but as others have pointed out instant start vs program start etc all impacts performance.

We get more output because we have 98% reflective aluminum (cheaper fixtures typically use 85%). This alone makes a massive impact because 75% of the output is going the wrong direction, (not down into the tank) so if you can redirect more of that light downwards it will make a massive impact on your total par.

Fan cooled cathodes, engineering of the reflector and proper ballast all impact output as well. Could you put ATI reflectors and better ballasts in a cheap light? Sure, but why not just do it right from the start :)