ATI T5 with SPS

Bubblewood

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 10, 2013
Messages
262
Reaction score
22
Location
Madison,WI
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Ok... Looking for some input, ideas with you T5 users.
So many of you have seen my Savvy tank. It has been up and running now for several months with mostly SPS. Growth has been great, polyp extension has been great also. Color has been been great for the past few months but has has been steadily declining in colors. Red planet is no longer "red" it's pink. Yellow corals are now washed out. I would say almost 75% have lost color. Color is still there just washed out.
So here's the info I can provide:
Water parameters are all within check.
Alk 8.5
Cal 450
Mag 1400
Pho 0
Nitrates 1
Ph day 8.10 / night 7.9


Lighting is a 48" (8) 54 watt bulb ATI fixture. The fixture is 8" off the water. My PAR readings are at upper 400's on the top and mid 300's on the sand bed. The tank is 20" deep.
Bulb layout front to back WAS....B+, P+, B+, C+, P+, B+, B+, B+


This is the current layout as of a few days ago.
Front / Back again
B+, C+, A, 6500K, B+, A, B+, P+
My atin come on first at 8:00am. The balance comes on at 9:30 till 7:30pm.


So my question is do I have "too much light" causing the washed out colors or not giving enough "day" white light? With the help of a good friend of mine I have changed to the current layout. I'm getting close to pulling out some of the corals and putting them back into my 240 tank. To see the colors come back under the MH.
So I'm hoping someone out there has came across this issue. I'm hoping that I'm simply not providing the "best bulb combo" and not bleaching out my corals.


Thanks!
Joe
 

Vmacisback

Vern McCalla
View Badges
Joined
Jul 18, 2012
Messages
1,411
Reaction score
143
Location
Bay area, CA
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I have the same fixture. Did you acclimate the corals properly to the light by starting them low and gradually moving them up every few weeks? Are you aware of the required lighting for each coral? Im sure if you did this they would not bleach. Also it looks like your tank is running pretty clean did you ever think it may not be the lighting and not enough nutrients in the tank? A lot of people can attest to bumping up their phos to around .02-.10 and getting some good color back in their corals. I know I also ways shot for a clean tank and when I achieved the numbers I wanted my corals looked pale and didn't display their real or darkened colors. Just a thought. Hope this helps.
 
OP
OP
B

Bubblewood

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 10, 2013
Messages
262
Reaction score
22
Location
Madison,WI
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I have the same fixture. Did you acclimate the corals properly to the light by starting them low and gradually moving them up every few weeks? Are you aware of the required lighting for each coral? Im sure if you did this they would not bleach. Also it looks like your tank is running pretty clean did you ever think it may not be the lighting and not enough nutrients in the tank? A lot of people can attest to bumping up their phos to around .02-.10 and getting some good color back in their corals. I know I also ways shot for a clean tank and when I achieved the numbers I wanted my corals looked pale and didn't display their real or darkened colors. Just a thought. Hope this helps.

Yes I adjusted the corals to the lights. I feed the corals twice a week also. I think I will start using some aminos to "feed" the tank more. Good thoughts!
 

Stoneyman

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Aug 9, 2013
Messages
218
Reaction score
3
Location
South Florida
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I agree with first responder. Nutrients. Add a few fish. Feed a little bit more. Skim a little bit less. Maybe a few more days in between water changes. Maybe take out the mechanical filtration like socks, sponges, pads etc....i aim for nitrates around 2-4 and phos around 0.05.
 

Rob&Gab

unregistered
View Badges
Joined
Feb 20, 2013
Messages
6,615
Reaction score
79
Location
whitestone, Queens NY
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Turn you fixtures 6bulbs off round 5pm then the last 2 at 7-730pm


I would make the 2 bulb actinics

What par meter you using? Also is the top of your water moving around allot like te water breaking ? Mid 300+ on the sand bed . But at the top of the water mid 400+. Don't sound right . Should be with 8 bulb at top of he water in the 800+ Esp if your only hanging it 8" above the water line.


How is your rock work? Have a picture of he tank? You can be burning them. Also what test kits are you using?
 
OP
OP
B

Bubblewood

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 10, 2013
Messages
262
Reaction score
22
Location
Madison,WI
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
So I have a few items that I have changed... I have 2 bulbs that come on are actinics. I will be also feeding a lot more cause I have been light on that. The polyp extension has been crazy in the evenings. Very long feeders 1/4"+. My PAR numbers at the top of the water is 850. Most corals are mid to upper part of my tank.
I have no red bugs or aefw. :-)
Here's a few pictures. The first two is about 1.5 months ago. The third one was just a few days ago. Thanks for all the input so far!





 

Big E

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Jan 17, 2012
Messages
2,578
Reaction score
4,142
Location
Willoughby, OH
Rating - 100%
3   0   0
Here are my par numbers ..................my coral colors are rich and vivid. I run 8 hours a day.

The lights are 6 1/2" from the surface and total water depth is 18 1/2". The first number is the level from the floor of the tank. The number in ( ) is the distance from the bulbs.
1" off the bottom-- 200 (24)
3"- 260 (22)
6"- 280 (19)
10"- 300 (15) This is mid level area of the tank.
11"- 325 (14)
12"- 360 (13)
13"- 400 (12)
14"- 430 (11)
15"- 470 (10)
17"- 500 (8)
Use that as a general guide. You don't need no where near as much par as people think.
 

Diesel

ME=1, CANCER=0.
View Badges
Joined
Apr 14, 2012
Messages
13,611
Reaction score
15,160
Location
Texas Republic Grand Ranch.
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Yep, no doubt if your PO4 is 0.0 for a long time of period your corals turn pale, we call that STARVING!!
Can report you for that to CPS............. LOL (no child but coral protecting service)
Also as mentioned above reduce photo period, long periods can pale out or even kill corals.
Need enough flow too for SPS, flow is IMO more important than lights.

70ml of tank water, 5ml of Selcon, 10 ml of Oyster Feast and 1 scoop of Reef Chili for every 10 gallons of tank water, 10ml of Reef Plus.
Shake and bake feed 25% of the mix into tank before light go off everyday, keep it refrigerated. (SSSSSSSSST don't tell anyone this secret mix)
You can also make a mix with Phyto feast.
Test your Po4 every other day if you see not an increase feed a little more.
Of course feed the fish a bit more food and on a daily base use Amino Acid, I use the Fuel from aqua vitro.
You might check on Potassium too, with a low nutrients system you have the Potassium level will drop fast.
Test first before you dose that.

Good luck and let us know the progress.
 
Last edited:

Mr V

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Jun 18, 2014
Messages
662
Reaction score
2,930
Location
South California
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
So I have a few items that I have changed... I have 2 bulbs that come on are actinics. I will be also feeding a lot more cause I have been light on that. The polyp extension has been crazy in the evenings. Very long feeders 1/4"+. My PAR numbers at the top of the water is 850. Most corals are mid to upper part of my tank.
I have no red bugs or aefw. :-)
Here's a few pictures. The first two is about 1.5 months ago. The third one was just a few days ago. Thanks for all the input so far!






Tell me if I'm wrong but in the first picture sps look more "colorful" and look pale in the second picture just because of the color of the light.
 

gdemos

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 19, 2013
Messages
414
Reaction score
80
Location
RI
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Diesel: sounds like a heavy feed, I like it. What is your fish volume like and what does your nutrient export setup consist of, heavy skim, carbon dose, GFO, frequency/volume % of 8645640?

OP: Also whenever I see a cbb (nice fish) I wonder about flow as I know they tend to get knocked around. What's your flow like?
 

gdemos

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 19, 2013
Messages
414
Reaction score
80
Location
RI
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Is that an MP40 right, and 10 left or 2 40's? And another powerhead lower right?
 

jackson6745

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 15, 2012
Messages
2,353
Reaction score
3,027
Location
NJ
Rating - 100%
2   0   0
Joe, I think your tank looks great. The lighter colors are more related to nutrients than lighting. Are you using GFO? If so, stop completely. You don't need it.
If you just need to raise nutrient a little, I am not a fan of doing this solely with corals foods or aminos. Add a few more fish. Besides feeding them, I believe it is the urine that forces more bacteria growth in a system. SPS seem to thrive and glow in color if balanced properly.
 

Diesel

ME=1, CANCER=0.
View Badges
Joined
Apr 14, 2012
Messages
13,611
Reaction score
15,160
Location
Texas Republic Grand Ranch.
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Diesel: sounds like a heavy feed, I like it. What is your fish volume like and what does your nutrient export setup consist of, heavy skim, carbon dose, GFO, frequency/volume % of 8645640?

OP: Also whenever I see a cbb (nice fish) I wonder about flow as I know they tend to get knocked around. What's your flow like?

Not at all.
Tank is under stocked,
Blond Naso
Purple Tang
Flame Angel
Bandit Angel
Bellus Angel

Doing dry skim with a Lifereef skimmer.
Full Zeo system with the new 4L zeovibe.
No GFO, never had and never will.
WC, twice a week 12 gallon.
 
OP
OP
B

Bubblewood

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 10, 2013
Messages
262
Reaction score
22
Location
Madison,WI
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Thanks for all the great input. So here's a answers to the questions above.....
Diesel - That is one mixture of foods. I'm going to PM on a few other questions. :-)
Mr V - you are correct. The first picture was in the beginning. The second and third pics the corals have lost colors. :-(
Gdemos - Flow is good, in all directions. You are correct 40 on the right, 10 on the left and a smaller PHead on lower right. MP's run from 35% to 65% thru-out the day.
Jackson6745 - not using any GFO just carbon.
My current fish load is
Copper BF
1- Black tang
1- Chevron tang
5- Cranberry Anthias
2- Randell Anthias
1- Neon Dottyback
3- Clowns
1- Pygym possum wrasse

I have increased the feeding and started using a few Zeovit coral sup. I have decreased the lighting hours a 1.5 hours.
That's where I'm at currently.
 
OP
OP
B

Bubblewood

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 10, 2013
Messages
262
Reaction score
22
Location
Madison,WI
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I have also removed my single filter sock. Skimmer has been running a little on the thicker side. :-)
 

Diesel

ME=1, CANCER=0.
View Badges
Joined
Apr 14, 2012
Messages
13,611
Reaction score
15,160
Location
Texas Republic Grand Ranch.
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Thanks for all the great input. So here's a answers to the questions above.....
Diesel - That is one mixture of foods. I'm going to PM on a few other questions. :-)
Mr V - you are correct. The first picture was in the beginning. The second and third pics the corals have lost colors. :-(
Gdemos - Flow is good, in all directions. You are correct 40 on the right, 10 on the left and a smaller PHead on lower right. MP's run from 35% to 65% thru-out the day.
Jackson6745 - not using any GFO just carbon.
My current fish load is
Copper BF
1- Black tang
1- Chevron tang
5- Cranberry Anthias
2- Randell Anthias
1- Neon Dottyback
3- Clowns
1- Pygym possum wrasse

I have increased the feeding and started using a few Zeovit coral sup. I have decreased the lighting hours a 1.5 hours.
That's where I'm at currently.

I have also removed my single filter sock. Skimmer has been running a little on the thicker side. :-)


Please be careful with any changes you do to your tank and don't do to many as it may set off your balance.
Remember, if you think you go slow.......... slow down even more!
 

TOP 10 Trending Threads

WHAT AMOUNT OF LIVE ROCK AND SAND SHOULD BE PRIORITIZED FOR OPTIMAL BIODIVERSITY/FILTRATION?

  • 100% live rock + bagged sand

    Votes: 34 28.3%
  • 100% dry rock + 100% live sand

    Votes: 41 34.2%
  • 50/50 live/dry rock, 50/50 live/bagged sand

    Votes: 27 22.5%
  • 75% live rock, 25% live sand

    Votes: 10 8.3%
  • 25% live rock, 75% live sand

    Votes: 8 6.7%
Back
Top