ATO/RO control

[jpil]

Ran across this on eBay, anyone ever used one?

 

[xxkenny90xx]

Bump. I wonder how reliable something like this is. Sure would be nice to have set up!

 

[jpil]

Bump. I wonder how reliable something like this is. Sure would be nice to have set up!

That was my thought exactly, would cut down on a step or two for me

 

[Spieg]

Down side is that RO filters runs dirty for the first few minutes after starting... If ATO turns on/off a dozen times a day, you're going to get a lot of TDS going into your DI resin which gets expensive.

Also not a fan of potentially unlimited supply of water going to my tank if something fails to shut off.

 

[jpil]

Down side is that RO filters runs dirty for the first few minutes after starting... If ATO turns on/off a dozen times a day, you're going to get a lot of TDS going into your DI resin which gets expensive.

Also not a fan of potentially unlimited supply of water going to my tank if something fails to shut off.

100% not a fan of unlimited supply going directly into my tank, but if it can run into a ATO reservoir and top it off every day or so... that would be nice. Plus my SO would be way less upset if it overfills fresh water onto the floor than salt water... lol

 

[xxkenny90xx]

Down side is that RO filters runs dirty for the first few minutes after starting... If ATO turns on/off a dozen times a day, you're going to get a lot of TDS going into your DI resin which gets expensive.

Also not a fan of potentially unlimited supply of water going to my tank if something fails to shut off.

If it's running throughout the day everyday I don't think you'd have tds issues. But ya, the unlimited water thing is an issue for me too...

 

[RobB'z Reef]

Ran across this on eBay, anyone ever used one?

Everyone seems to be running away with a lot of assumptions so far lol. I can't vouch for reliability of that manufacturer but it seems like a fairly straight forward high/low liquid level control system. Most well known quality systems of similar function with well known reliability typically run in the range of $150 to $200. If this is as durable it's a true gem to be sure.

Nobody else asked but what are you attempting to accomplish specifically with this item? The title isn't specific enough.

 

[jpil]

I haven’t gotten to that point in my build yet, but a automated way to top off my space limited ATO reservoir would be nice. I know there are a lot of ways to accomplish that, just had never seen that setup before

 

[Greybeard]

On the TDS thing... I'm running RO to a drinking water faucet, ice makers (2), and DI to an ATO similar to this one, as well as to a Kalkwasser reactor reservoir, and a mixing station. Water is running many times throughout the day. Haven't noticed an increase in DI consumption. DI water is always at zero tds. Does 'TDS Creep' happen? Sure. Is it worth worrying about? Not in my opinion.

As for the design of that ATO system. I'm a redundancy guy. You've got a single point of failure that could nuke your tank. Solenoids are less than reliable... I've seen many fail. If it does, you're hosed. If the low level sensor fails, it should only fill to the high level... and hopefully alarm, which is a good thing... but if the solenoid fails? No backup. Flooded tank, likely enough fresh water to nuke the system.

I do like direct DI to tank ATO systems... and it can be done safely. Replace that solenoid with an electric ball valve. The one I like is a 2 wire 'hot to open' system, with a spring closure on power failure. Power fails? Water is OFF.

I use 3 sensors, tied to my Apex. High level sensors in the sump, in my kalk reservoir, and in my mixing station barrel. High level in any of the three closes the ball valve, cutting off water to the system, and sends me an alarm. Then, as mechanical redundancy, I'm using a plain old float valve at each of the three entry points. So.... normally, the three high level sensors are high and dry. No algae growth, snails, etc... Water is controlled with purely mechanical float valves. When one fails, and yes, eventually, one will fail... high level sensor trips, water is off, and I get an email. Simple and safe.

The valve I use...

U.S. Solid Motorized Ball Valve- 1/4” Stainless Steel Electrical Ball Valve with Full Port, 9-24 V AC/DC, 2 Wire Auto Return

Simple 2 wire Motorized ball valve 9V, 12V to 24V, Auto Return Model is ideal for those that need Normally Closed valves. Easily wired to a simple on off switch, with fail safe auto-return. Great for home water systems.

ussolid.com

 

[RobB'z Reef]

On the TDS thing... I'm running RO to a drinking water faucet, ice makers (2), and DI to an ATO similar to this one, as well as to a Kalkwasser reactor reservoir, and a mixing station. Water is running many times throughout the day. Haven't noticed an increase in DI consumption. DI water is always at zero tds. Does 'TDS Creep' happen? Sure. Is it worth worrying about? Not in my opinion.

As for the design of that ATO system. I'm a redundancy guy. You've got a single point of failure that could nuke your tank. Solenoids are less than reliable... I've seen many fail. If it does, you're hosed. If the low level sensor fails, it should only fill to the high level... and hopefully alarm, which is a good thing... but if the solenoid fails? No backup. Flooded tank, likely enough fresh water to nuke the system.

I do like direct DI to tank ATO systems... and it can be done safely. Replace that solenoid with an electric ball valve. The one I like is a 2 wire 'hot to open' system, with a spring closure on power failure. Power fails? Water is OFF.

I use 3 sensors, tied to my Apex. High level sensors in the sump, in my kalk reservoir, and in my mixing station barrel. High level in any of the three closes the ball valve, cutting off water to the system, and sends me an alarm. Then, as mechanical redundancy, I'm using a plain old float valve at each of the three entry points. So.... normally, the three high level sensors are high and dry. No algae growth, snails, etc... Water is controlled with purely mechanical float valves. When one fails, and yes, eventually, one will fail... high level sensor trips, water is off, and I get an email. Simple and safe.

The valve I use...

U.S. Solid Motorized Ball Valve- 1/4” Stainless Steel Electrical Ball Valve with Full Port, 9-24 V AC/DC, 2 Wire Auto Return

Simple 2 wire Motorized ball valve 9V, 12V to 24V, Auto Return Model is ideal for those that need Normally Closed valves. Easily wired to a simple on off switch, with fail safe auto-return. Great for home water systems.

ussolid.com

I like this advice and take a very similar approach as well. The one thing I add and recommend that everyone should consider is plumbing an over flow pipe or tube from your ATO to a floor drain if you're setup allows this. That way if everything goes south it also goes down the drain and not on your floor. I realize this isn't always possible but it's just a consideration.