ATO using Litermeter and bladder tank

[Damage12]

Anyone know if you can draw RO/DI water from a bladder tank using a Litermeter or similar type pump?

My goal is to have a controller turn on and off the Ro/DI system 1-2x per week annd water is added into the bladder tank. Then t-off that line to a Litermeter to add water into the sump. This way I don’t have to rely on sensors and float switches failing and overflow my sump.

Is this even feasible? Thanks for any insight.

 

[UncommonSense]

Anyone know if you can draw RO/DI water from a bladder tank using a Litermeter or similar type pump?

My goal is to have a controller turn on and off the Ro/DI system 1-2x per week annd water is added into the bladder tank. Then t-off that line to a Litermeter to add water into the sump. This way I don’t have to rely on sensors and float switches failing and overflow my sump.

Is this even feasible? Thanks for any insight.

These peristaltic pumps are not intended to be used as a valve, or to have any hydraulic head pressure on the inlet side, really!

The tubing seal is likely to start weeping over time with even 3-5PSI of constant inlet pressure from an accumulator tank!

Best bet here would be using the peristaltic pump for ato water suction!

 

[Damage12]

These peristaltic pumps are not intended to be used as a valve, or to have any hydraulic head pressure on the inlet side, really!

The tubing seal is likely to start weeping over time with even 3-5PSI of constant inlet pressure from an accumulator tank!

Best bet here would be using the peristaltic pump for ato water suction!

Ok, thanks. Have to re-think this then. I figured using a bladder tank would avoid over filling an ATO tank.

 

[UncommonSense]

Ok, thanks. Have to re-think this then. I figured using a bladder tank would avoid over filling an ATO tank.

You could always use the peristaltic pump to pull water from a decent distance away, to the tank?

 

[BZOFIQ]

I did exactly what you're trying to do. It's been working for me on multiple tanks

I have a 14 gallon pressurized RO tank that feeds our fridge but is also used for ATO...on 2 tanks, used to do 3 systems previously.

All you need is a couple of float switches, a float valve and a simple solenoid valve. The float valve is just an additional safety.

Do you have a controller? it would make things a lot easier but is not absolutely necessary.

 

[Damage12]

I did exactly what you're trying to do. It's been working for me on multiple tanks

I have a 14 gallon pressurized RO tank that feeds our fridge but is also used for ATO...on 2 tanks, used to do 3 systems previously.

All you need is a couple of float switches, a float valve and a simple solenoid valve. The float valve is just an additional safety.

Do you have a controller? it would make things a lot easier but is not absolutely necessary.

Thank you for the info. I’m in the planning stages but do plan on using a controller to turn on and off the RO/DI system.

 

[Damage12]

You could always use the peristaltic pump to pull water from a decent distance away, to the tank?

Meaning further away is less pressure on the peristaltic pump?

 

[BZOFIQ]

Thank you for the info. I’m in the planning stages but do plan on using a controller to turn on and off the RO/DI system.

See posts #27 and #45 here to whet your appetite. You can make it as simple or as elaborate as your dreams and budget allows all while having fun with it. Hope this helps.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/what-ato-is-everyone-using.1146656/page-2
I also have a fully automated RODI system that turn on on pressure drop, flushes the membrane, operates the booster pump, dumps initial high-TDS water, produces water then flushes again only to shut down when preset pressure is set - or both pressurized RO and standard RODI tanks are filled.

Perhaps I'll create a thread about it soon.

 

[BZOFIQ]

Meaning further away is less pressure on the peristaltic pump?

Litermeter is not going to stop 40-60 PSI from the tank.

 

[UncommonSense]

Meaning further away is less pressure on the peristaltic pump?

Ah, the accumulator tank will put a constant pressure on the peristaltic pump, likely 40psi while resting…

I’m saying omit the accumulator tank, and just use the peristaltic pump to push or suck water from your remote RODI container!

 

[Damage12]

Ah, the accumulator tank will put a constant pressure on the peristaltic pump, likely 40psi while resting…

I’m saying omit the accumulator tank, and just use the peristaltic pump to push or suck water from your remote RODI container!

Gotcha, I was trying to avoid using a remote tank to avoid float switches or sensors. I guess I can use a controller to shut off the RO/DI to the remote tank, but that’s not foolproof either.

Thanks for the ideas.

 

[BZOFIQ]

Ah, the accumulator tank will put a constant pressure on the peristaltic pump, likely 40psi while resting…

I’m saying omit the accumulator tank, and just use the peristaltic pump to push or suck water from your remote RODI container!

Valid point, unless you are also using the tank for drinking water. Ours supplies our fridge and soon our drinking kitchen faucet on the 1st floor (from basement)

 

[UncommonSense]

Valid point, unless you are also using the tank for drinking water. Ours supplies our fridge and soon our drinking kitchen faucet on the 1st floor (from basement)

I’ve got two accumulators on my system, a way to employ them for ATO refill would be a float valve in the ATO container, and probably a solenoid valve inline… then you can have the solenoid open for X minutes, and the float will serve as a redundancy!

 

[Damage12]

I’ve got two accumulators on my system, a way to employ them for ATO refill would be a float valve in the ATO container, and probably a solenoid valve inline… then you can have the solenoid open for X minutes, and the float will serve as a redundancy!

That’s a good idea too. Thank you.

 

[BZOFIQ]

I’ve got two accumulators on my system, a way to employ them for ATO refill would be a float valve in the ATO container, and probably a solenoid valve inline… then you can have the solenoid open for X minutes, and the float will serve as a redundancy!

That's more or less what i've done. see the thread i mentioned above in post #8 where I described it.