Automatic Water changes. It doesnt get any better then this.

[AquamanE]

I ordered a bunch of Uniseals myself and got them today.

I plan on using the 1/4" to create the fail safe with the Apex on the AWC system in case my fresh SWC bin goes empty.

 

[joshporksandwich]

I just read everything. what an awesome thread Eddie. Can't wait to do this on my new tank.

 

[cuzican76]

I go to the store and next time I'll keep the recite to show yall..but like I said I've never ordered it so it might be different

 

[Genesis Corals]

I caved...mine is in the mail, can't wait.

 

[Sacohen]

Got another one hooked. :)

 

[KoleTang]

Just got my pumps today. Got to order some other stuff to get everything together.

I'm still pretty confused about the wiring of the relay/float switch/power supply. Does anyone have pictures of their wiring?

ddavies, could I bother you for a part number or link to the relay? It would be much appreciated. I've been searching but for some reason I can't find one online.

 

[AquamanE]

I finally got around to installing the safety float switch to turn AWC system off if fresh SW bin is empty. Reminder you dont want AWC system on since it will bring in no new water and continue emptying your tank.

I bought a horizontal float switch and installed in Brute 35 g bin. So far so good. Ran wire alonf the 1/4 inch suction line to the apex, via break out box. Tested everything was good.

I then realize that i set the float switch 2-3 inches from bottom of bin. This means that the suction has to be below this. As many of you have probably noticed, these 1/4 suction lines tend to float some. So now i have to make SURE the suction line is well below the float switch, which doesnt give me a lot of room to spare. :nono:

So lesson learned, if setting up a safety float switch place it high enough to give you some wiggle room if suction line tends to float some. I plan on getting something heavy to keep it down, but have to make sure it isnt something that will leach out metals (considered one of my scuba weights, but those are lead). :mad2:

Ok so finally got around to installing the suction line of fresh SW to Brute. i did it with a 1/4" uniseal. In the pic you can see the Stenner Strainer, this is where the water is taken from for WC. To the left is the horizontal float valve slightly above the strainer. If the float valve opens, then the AWC system stops, AND sends me an email to let me know SW bin is empty. Yeah i know bin needs cleaning, i do it every few years or so.

Pretty cool huh:rockon::rockon::rockon::rockon:

 

[ronnie]

Very nice!

 

[KoleTang]

What part are you guys using to connect the peristaltic tubing to RO tubing?

Aquaman, that looks great. Is the float switch on a uniseal?

 

[AquamanE]

What part are you guys using to connect the peristaltic tubing to RO tubing?

Aquaman, that looks great. Is the float switch on a uniseal?

Float switch from autotopoff.com came with its own seal. Yes it s like a uniseal, but with a compression fitting on the outside.

Regarding connection from peristalsic to 1/4" Stenner pump comes with ALL fittings. Peristalsic to 1/4 is a compression fitting.

 

[Sacohen]

What part are you guys using to connect the peristaltic tubing to RO tubing?

I'm not using RO tubing I have 1/4" clear PVC tubing connected to the peristaltic tubing using Polyethylene Barbed Tube Fitting from McMaster-Carr Part # 2808K106.

Those connecting to RO tubing have either pushed the RO tubing into the peristaltic tubing and zip tied it if they needed to.

ReeferEric is using barb to push connectors as seen in his video below.
[video=youtube;k7YWO-_TSZ8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k7YWO-_TSZ8&feature=youtu.be[/video]

 

[KoleTang]

I think I'm going to go for the "push in the RO tubing" method. I'll probably go with these over zip ties though. 3/8"-7/8" Hose Clamp at Menards

Barb to push connect is always an option as well, but all those Mur-Lok fittings add up when I can just shove the RO tubing in.

 

[gtbarsi]

I got my fittings from McMaster-Carr, and used zip ties on the pump hose to insure it could not come loose.

 

[KoleTang]

Will this DIY controller work with this power supply, even if the power supply runs off 12VDC and the Relay on the controller runs off 12VAC?

 

[KoleTang]

Should the power supply be AC or DC?

 

[ReeferEric]

Should the power supply be AC or DC?

It should be DC if your using the same masterflex pumps

 

[ReeferEric]

Looks good Eddie, I need to start brainstorming.

 

[Chris155hp]

Setting this up next week when plastic tanks and stenner pumps arrive. I'll post up a video when it's all said and done. I'm kinda going a long distance from the SW mixing station to the tank ~60 ft so gonna have to figure out how to get the apex to reach for low SW alarm (for stenner power I'll just run Romex like and extension cord)

 

[AquamanE]

Setting this up next week when plastic tanks and stenner pumps arrive. I'll post up a video when it's all said and done. I'm kinda going a long distance from the SW mixing station to the tank ~60 ft so gonna have to figure out how to get the apex to reach for low SW alarm (for stenner power I'll just run Romex like and extension cord)

Chris- Run wires for a breakout box along with water tubing. Set a float switch slightly above your water line from fresh SW bin. Hook up those wires to Apex. What this will do is shut off pump before you go dry.

 

[jonnyu]

I would run a/c cable so you can hook up multiple float switches. I have mine hooked up to two float switches on my freshwater and fresh saltwater container just in case the manual float switch goes bad the apex will cut water supply to the RO filter. So I want have any accidental flooding when making water