Avast Kalk stirrer K1 modification

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todarrell

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I wanted to share a few simple mods that improved performance on my K1 Avast Kalk Stirrer. After going through two medium IceCap reactors (constant stir bar issues, clogs, and leaks), I switched to the Avast. While more reliable, the kalk saturation still settled at the bottom.

I first tried 3D-printed clip-on paddles—minimal improvement. So I upgraded to a 45 RPM motor and added two small 3-blade drone propellers (links below). Total upgrade cost motor and propellers: about $35.

Motor wiring (see link for diagram):
  • Both yellow wires to the thick black plug wire
  • Other two wires to the capacitor
  • The thin black wire connects to either side of the capacitor (one direction = forward, other = reverse)
Propeller setup:
  • Two props, spaced a few inches apart and slightly offset
  • Attached with a small set screw
  • Either mount upside down or run the motor in reverse (both work)
As shown in the video, the slurry now fully circulates to the top. To address potential leaking at the base rim (a known issue), I reinforced the seal with WaterWeld epoxy.

Motor link

Propeller link
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4428.mov
    20.5 MB
I wanted to share a few simple mods that improved performance on my K1 Avast Kalk Stirrer. After going through two medium IceCap reactors (constant stir bar issues, clogs, and leaks), I switched to the Avast. While more reliable, the kalk saturation still settled at the bottom.

I first tried 3D-printed clip-on paddles—minimal improvement. So I upgraded to a 45 RPM motor and added two small 3-blade drone propellers (links below). Total upgrade cost motor and propellers: about $35.

Motor wiring (see link for diagram):
  • Both yellow wires to the thick black plug wire
  • Other two wires to the capacitor
  • The thin black wire connects to either side of the capacitor (one direction = forward, other = reverse)
Propeller setup:
  • Two props, spaced a few inches apart and slightly offset
  • Attached with a small set screw
  • Either mount upside down or run the motor in reverse (both work)
As shown in the picture, the slurry now fully circulates to the top. You will have to trim the water intake straw a bit. I cut a few inches off.
To address potential leaking at the base rim (a known issue), I reinforced the seal with WaterWeld epoxy.

Motor link

Propeller link
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6297.jpeg
    IMG_6297.jpeg
    69.7 KB · Views: 70

WHICH PART OF YOUR SETUP IS HARDEST TO REACH OR REMOVE FOR ROUTINE MAINTENANCE?

  • Glass behind or beside the tank

    Votes: 8 33.3%
  • Powerheads or wavemakers

    Votes: 2 8.3%
  • Sump or rear filtration chambers

    Votes: 3 12.5%
  • Skimmer or other filtration equipment

    Votes: 1 4.2%
  • Overflow or plumbing

    Votes: 6 25.0%
  • Lights or lids

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Mine is pretty easy to access!

    Votes: 3 12.5%
  • Other—tell us what I missed

    Votes: 1 4.2%
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