Avast Kalk stirrer K1 modification

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todarrell

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I wanted to share a few simple mods that improved performance on my K1 Avast Kalk Stirrer. After going through two medium IceCap reactors (constant stir bar issues, clogs, and leaks), I switched to the Avast. While more reliable, the kalk saturation still settled at the bottom.

I first tried 3D-printed clip-on paddles—minimal improvement. So I upgraded to a 45 RPM motor and added two small 3-blade drone propellers (links below). Total upgrade cost motor and propellers: about $35.

Motor wiring (see link for diagram):
  • Both yellow wires to the thick black plug wire
  • Other two wires to the capacitor
  • The thin black wire connects to either side of the capacitor (one direction = forward, other = reverse)
Propeller setup:
  • Two props, spaced a few inches apart and slightly offset
  • Attached with a small set screw
  • Either mount upside down or run the motor in reverse (both work)
As shown in the video, the slurry now fully circulates to the top. To address potential leaking at the base rim (a known issue), I reinforced the seal with WaterWeld epoxy.

Motor link

Propeller link
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4428.mov
    20.5 MB
I wanted to share a few simple mods that improved performance on my K1 Avast Kalk Stirrer. After going through two medium IceCap reactors (constant stir bar issues, clogs, and leaks), I switched to the Avast. While more reliable, the kalk saturation still settled at the bottom.

I first tried 3D-printed clip-on paddles—minimal improvement. So I upgraded to a 45 RPM motor and added two small 3-blade drone propellers (links below). Total upgrade cost motor and propellers: about $35.

Motor wiring (see link for diagram):
  • Both yellow wires to the thick black plug wire
  • Other two wires to the capacitor
  • The thin black wire connects to either side of the capacitor (one direction = forward, other = reverse)
Propeller setup:
  • Two props, spaced a few inches apart and slightly offset
  • Attached with a small set screw
  • Either mount upside down or run the motor in reverse (both work)
As shown in the picture, the slurry now fully circulates to the top. You will have to trim the water intake straw a bit. I cut a few inches off.
To address potential leaking at the base rim (a known issue), I reinforced the seal with WaterWeld epoxy.

Motor link

Propeller link
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6297.jpeg
    IMG_6297.jpeg
    69.7 KB · Views: 67

IF YOU HAD TO OPERATE EVERYTHING ELSE MANUALLY, WHICH AUTOMATED SYSTEM WOULD YOU KEEP?

  • Auto top-off

    Votes: 56 58.3%
  • Automated dosing

    Votes: 6 6.3%
  • Mechanical filtration / roller filter

    Votes: 4 4.2%
  • Automated water testing

    Votes: 3 3.1%
  • Automatic feeding

    Votes: 1 1.0%
  • Lighting schedule

    Votes: 17 17.7%
  • Controller and remote monitoring

    Votes: 4 4.2%
  • Leak detection and emergency shutoff

    Votes: 1 1.0%
  • Automatic water changes

    Votes: 3 3.1%
  • None. I prefer to operate everything manually

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Something else (explain in the comments)

    Votes: 1 1.0%
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