avoiding a cycle in a QT tank

[reef tank 2.0]

while I had my last tank set up, I had a QT tank, 29 gallon. The tank had a bio-wheel HOB filter, PVC pipes for hiding, heater, powerhead.
I will be using this same set up for this new tank.

In the past, I removed the carbon cartridge, and replaced it with polyester / pillow floss. I would rinse the floss every few days with standard tap water. I don't remember if I went the floss route because it was cheaper than buying the carbon filters. The carbon makes the water crystal clear, so I tend to think that wouldn't be necessary for what I am trying to do (QT). That could have been my thinking, and why I went the floss route. the bio-wheel has always been in place, and rinsed as well.

Shortly after feeding the fish, I would scoop out any floaties that were not eaten, to avoid the ammonia build up. tried to keep that tank as clean as possible. Again, to avoid the cycle process. doing a 10-20% water change once a week.

My question is, whether it's a carbon filter, or the floss...............does it matter in this case which I go with, as long as I keep it rinsed? would one have better filtration than the other?

 

[Dan_P]

while I had my last tank set up, I had a QT tank, 29 gallon. The tank had a bio-wheel HOB filter, PVC pipes for hiding, heater, powerhead.
I will be using this same set up for this new tank.

In the past, I removed the carbon cartridge, and replaced it with polyester / pillow floss. I would rinse the floss every few days with standard tap water. I don't remember if I went the floss route because it was cheaper than buying the carbon filters. The carbon makes the water crystal clear, so I tend to think that wouldn't be necessary for what I am trying to do (QT). That could have been my thinking, and why I went the floss route. the bio-wheel has always been in place, and rinsed as well.

Shortly after feeding the fish, I would scoop out any floaties that were not eaten, to avoid the ammonia build up. tried to keep that tank as clean as possible. Again, to avoid the cycle process. doing a 10-20% water change once a week.

My question is, whether it's a carbon filter, or the floss...............does it matter in this case which I go with, as long as I keep it rinsed? would one have better filtration than the other?

Why wouldn’t you dose the QT with nitrifying bacteria?

 

[reef tank 2.0]

Never thought if it before. I always did the fresh saltwater and dosed the water with prazipro and prime during water changes. That's all I ever have done. Stupid simple (in my mind)

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Never thought if it before. I always did the fresh saltwater and dosed the water with prazipro and prime during water changes. That's all I ever have done. Stupid simple (in my mind)

Just FYI, Prime is fine to dechlorinate tap water in an emergency, but it does nothing for ammonia. (And, yes, I know what it says on the bottle, but there is proof - on this forum, no less - that SeaChem's claims are false).

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Post in thread 'Prime' https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/prime.1044265/post-12352660

 

[reef tank 2.0]

Well alrighty then

The frequent water changes will remain, that's how I've dealt with any chance of ammonia popping up in the past.

Since I'm keeping mine simple simple....what would the nitrifying bacteria do? That just breaks down harmful ammonia levels, right?

I do have my ammonia test strips to monitor the qt as well.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Since I'm keeping mine simple simple....what would the nitrifying bacteria do? That just breaks down harmful ammonia levels, right?

Yes, that's what nitrifying bacteria does, reduces ammonia to nitrite and nitrite to nitrate. Since you are using filter media, bacteria will start to colonize the media and adding bottled bac can boost/speed up this process. It's more of a safety net; if you're comfortable monitoring the ammo level and are prepared to do frequent water changes (probably more than a few gallons once a week), that's fine too.

 

[reef tank 2.0]

I gotcha......I was just responding to my own question there, before you chimed in. Had to think about it for a sec.

I might do the bacteria as well. Even though I have that filter, I have trust issues. I'd rather be protected from every direction.

Thanks for the help

 

[reef tank 2.0]

Wait, is microbacter7 considered nitrifying bacteria????? If so, I have that on hand as well

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

I gotcha......I was just responding to my own question there, before you chimed in. Had to think about it for a sec.

I might do the bacteria as well. Even though I have that filter, I have trust issues. I'd rather be protected from every direction.

Thanks for the help

The bacteria and the filter work together. When you rinse out the filter material, do it in the old saltwater from a water change- that way you remove the junk and keep the bacteria.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Wait, is microbacter7 considered nitrifying bacteria????? If so, I have that on hand as well

I'd have to look that up...

 

[Dan_P]

Well alrighty then

The frequent water changes will remain, that's how I've dealt with any chance of ammonia popping up in the past.

Since I'm keeping mine simple simple....what would the nitrifying bacteria do? That just breaks down harmful ammonia levels, right?

I do have my ammonia test strips to monitor the qt as well.

In the presence of nitrifying bacteria, there is no ammonia. It is digested to nitrite and nitrate. The bacteria will colonize on surfaces and the filter sponge. This might take a week, so you would need to stay vigilante for awhile

 

[reef tank 2.0]

When I THOUGHT Prime was doing the same thing, I guess I never understood what it was SUPPOSED to be doing. After this discussion, I certainly understand it now.

So this nitrifying bacteria could certainly help me.

I will be adding fish to the QT within a few days. Let the fun begin

thanks for the feedback all

 

[Fish Fan]

Wait, is microbacter7 considered nitrifying bacteria????? If so, I have that on hand as well

It is, along with BioSpira (if available), Dr. Tim’s One and Only, Fritz Turbo Start and others. Many here will say one is better than the others, but in theory that are all very similar and intended to supply your tank with nitrifying bacteria.

The bacteria and the filter work together. When you rinse out the filter material, do it in the old saltwater from a water change- that way you remove the junk and keep the bacteria.

I just wanted to restate this point in case the OP missed it. You don’t want to rinse your bio wheel or any bio filter media in fresh tap water, this damages the bacteria you’re trying to grow. If your bio wheel is gunked up with detritus and needs cleaning, put it in a bucket of saltwater from your tank and give it a good swish back and forth to knock the gunk off, but don’t rinse it out under the tap.

What is you planned methodology for your QT process? For example, are you just holding and observing new fish, will you use the Tank Transfer Method or were you planning on doing a full medicated QT using copper or other medications? If you’ll be using medications, you’ll want to skip the carbon in your filter as this will remove the medications.

I use PolyFill/filter floss in a lot of my tanks, and the stuff is so cheap that there’s no reason to rinse that at all. Simply pulled it every three days to a week and replace it. You can buy a large bag at Walmart or a craft store cheap, it’s the same polyester material they stuff inside pillows.

If you have it available, you can add some bio media or rock rubble from an existing, established tank to your QT tank filter. This will seed your QT system with bacteria quickly. If you don’t have pre cycled bio media available, then definitely go with the bottled bacteria products.

Last, some refers like those SeaChem ammonia alert badges that hang in your tank and offer a visual indicator of the ammonia concentration. You can place one in your QT tank and if you see ammonia starting to spike I’d suggest doing a large water change to try to bring it down instead of reaching for the Prime.

I hope this helps, good luck!

 

[reef tank 2.0]

good point about not rinsing in tap water. failed to consider that

the fish store that I will be getting y fish from dose their entire system with copper. I don;t have any desire to continue that method. I will be placing my fish in my QT with some Prazipro, but other than that, I will only be observing over a few weeks. I will be removing the carbon filter cartridge.

I as well have that floss you mentioned, I used that on my last QT set up. I will be doing the same here. I still have a huge bag of it.

I have a bottle of ammonia test strips that I use strictly for the QT

 

[Fish Fan]

Good, sounds like you're on the right track I had read that it's suggested to add an air stone in the tank during the PraziPro treatment as that medication can deplete the oxygen in the tank, just to mention that.

 

[reef tank 2.0]

I don't remember having that issue before, but can't be too safe. I'll get that going as well.

 

[Fish Fan]

Yeah, your milage may vary, but it was just something that was mentioned in the R2R QT protocol written by a couple of the resident gurus here:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/current-quarantine-protocol.825055/

From that post:
Day 35: Praziquantel Treatment #1

• Confirm copper has been removed adequately to drop the concentration to less than 1 ppm. Copper and Prazi should not be administered simultaneously.
• Add Prazipro to the QT per the instructions on the label.
• Ensure the additional oxygenation source is working. This treatment will potentially reduce the oxygen levels within the QT to critical levels without additional air flow.

This is the quarantine method that I'm now following, and I happen to have a few fish in the PraziPro stage now. I went ahead an added an air stone, I figured it certainly couldn't hurt.

 

[PotatoPig]

Nevermind, saw comments already addressed what I was going to say.